Chris amor Posted April 1, 2019 Report Share Posted April 1, 2019 When out in car yesterday all going well , parked up on return to home . Went out to put into garage would not start. Got good spark pump working , any ideas ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted April 1, 2019 Report Share Posted April 1, 2019 If you have a Bosch pump, check its got power. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted April 1, 2019 Report Share Posted April 1, 2019 (edited) If the engine and weather is hot then the fuel can vaporise in the injector lines, especially with braided lines my car requires a bit of cranking and throttle part open to restart after ‘enthusiastic’ use, but it always starts steve Edited April 1, 2019 by Steves_TR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Fairweather Posted June 7, 2019 Report Share Posted June 7, 2019 Had the same problem (no fuel at injectors) and when cold it took ages for the car to start but once started ran ok and would start easily when warm. Getting 110 lb pressure at the metering unit. Spoke to Neil Fergusson who thought it may be lack of power to the pump (Bosch) when the engine was turned over but sufficient voltage when the engine is running. As a test he suggested hooking up a separate battery to the pump then starting it, big improvement. He also thought it would help to fit a separate powerline with a relay direct to the pump. Has anyone else fitted one and if so can you tell me how you did it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted June 7, 2019 Report Share Posted June 7, 2019 (edited) 48 minutes ago, Nick Fairweather said: Had the same problem (no fuel at injectors) and when cold it took ages for the car to start but once started ran ok and would start easily when warm. Getting 110 lb pressure at the metering unit. Spoke to Neil Fergusson who thought it may be lack of power to the pump (Bosch) when the engine was turned over but sufficient voltage when the engine is running. As a test he suggested hooking up a separate battery to the pump then starting it, big improvement. He also thought it would help to fit a separate powerline with a relay direct to the pump. Has anyone else fitted one and if so can you tell me how you did it? Nick If you do a search on the forum you will find a few articles on upgrading the power supply to the fuel pump, but basically you use the existing fuel pump feed to power a relay and then run a dedicated new power feed via the relay to the pump. On my car originally this new power feed was picked up from the thick brown wire on the connector block adjacent to the fuse box and the relay was mounted in the passenger footwell near the flasher relay. Points to remember; don't forget to fuse the new power feed ! upgrade the earth connection for the pump as well Stainless steel injector lines may ,lead to difficulty starting after standing a while as well (if you have them fitted of course!) Edited June 7, 2019 by Graham spelling Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted June 7, 2019 Report Share Posted June 7, 2019 (edited) Hot pumps can cause fuel vaporisation. When the vapour hits the metering unit the rotor can pick up in the housing and break the drive dog. Crack the fuel feed to the MU and turn on the ignition to ensure that you have a fuel supply . If all is ok tighten it back up and feel the injector pipes for a pulse when cranking No pulse is likely no drive......easily replaced. if it’s pulsing take out a couple of injectors and tap them as you crank to bleed out the air Just back from a tour of Eire My TR3 and seven 6 cylinder cars......guess how I know this Edited June 7, 2019 by Drewmotty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Fairweather Posted June 8, 2019 Report Share Posted June 8, 2019 Thanks guys - given me something new to try. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted June 8, 2019 Report Share Posted June 8, 2019 Let us know what you find Nick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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