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Best fluid stuff for flushing out Radiator & Cylinder head


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On 4/2/2019 at 7:42 PM, ed_h said:

Maybe, but it sure looks and feels more like sand than scale.  It also doesn't react to acids the way typical scale does.

Ed

People that I know  who run vintage and classic cars with Fernox F3 in their water systems, this stuff is usually used to clean out central heating systems. They don't seem to have suffered any ill effects from using it other than a very clean inside to their blocks and rads!

Bruce.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for all your help on this..I'm going to do the flush after the bank holiday as the weather looks good for driving the TR6 rather than spanner it...

Final question...Should I remove the thermostat when doing the flushing...Does it have any merit doing this?

 

Many thanks

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It may be good to remove it, to avoid issues with blocking it. The can will probably say this is not needed.

I had to remove mine as it was clogged but that was probably related to a phosphoric acid treatment I did before I used an cooling water cleaner.

Without the stat the flow will be higher too.

If you do, have a new gasket ready.

Waldi

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I have used ST Marc or as the uk would say Flash the stuff that cleans floors without scratching ( Scottish accent)  mix the crystals in a bucket of warm water until dissolved, empty the rad and engine of existing water as best you can usually by the bottom rad hose. Put the mix into the rad and top up. Run the engine until at operating temp making sure the heater valve is open, After 20 -30 mins leave to cool down and drain the system. You will be amazed how much stuff comes out sometimes slurry like. Top up with fresh water and repeat until the water is clear that is being drained, or if you have access to a hose put it on the heater hose and another pipe from the heater valve and flush that way until clear. I usually remove the thermostat to ensure good flow and to move all of the muck.  When you are happy that all of the crud has gone top up with anti freeze of your choice. Simples!

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have the rust water issue also. Engine only has maybe 1000 miles on it. They evidently didn't clean the block out. Tried getting that plug out, couldn't budge it. So after every drive I'd drain the rad, flush till clean and do the same over and over ha ha ha! Probably 15 times now. Never ending.

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I cleaned my block with a 30% phosforic acid solution, and noticed it did not remove all deposits. I flushed it with cold water until clean.

During my first start-up, when the engine warmed up, lots of brown sludge came free, giving the new coolant a rusty appearance. I drained, flushed with water again, and now it is clean. Will probably have to do this again after my first long run.

Waldi

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@Jogger321

Halfords do a two part cleaner that’s not too pricey. First bottle is the cleaning agent the second is the neutralising solution.

Also definitely pull that plug on the side of the block if you can and do as Roger suggested with a length of old coat hangar.... you may be surprised at what comes out!

JfI with mine I pulled the hose off the heater flow and return and stuck a hose on it and flushed it both ways, and stuffed my pressure washer in that block drain...messy!!

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  • 1 year later...

Having finally managed to remove the coolant plug and poked around with a coat hanger then a bradawl I am hitting hard material after about 1"

The system is currently empty having been cleaned and flushed ( clean water now coming out of bottom hose ) Should I fill the system again with cleaner or just water and poke around again if so how far in should the metal prodder go in. If its solid can it be left until the time comes for an engine rebuild or should I be a bit more aggressive ( tap with a hammer ) to clear a path, or just leave well alone. Haven't had any problems with overheating.

Guidance and wisdom appreciated as always.

Phil

 

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Hi Phil,

if it is the drain plug in the block you are probably hitting a piston bore.  If you have cleared it enough to allow water to flow out then leave it there.

You could use any of the proprietary cooling system cleaners (Radflush etc)  or even  central heating cleaner. 

Bung a couple of bottles in. Run the engine for a couple of hours and then drain and flush.

Refill with a decent 'BLUE' coolant.

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16 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi Phil,

if it is the drain plug in the block you are probably hitting a piston bore.  If you have cleared it enough to allow water to flow out then leave it there.

You could use any of the proprietary cooling system cleaners (Radflush etc)  or even  central heating cleaner. 

Bung a couple of bottles in. Run the engine for a couple of hours and then drain and flush.

Refill with a decent 'BLUE' coolant.

You cannot beat giving your cooling system a good dose of Fernox Cleaner F3, which will remove Sludge, Scale and Debris. It is for Central Heating Systems but it certainly removes the scale around 5 & 6 cylinders and unblocks the block drain plug. The veteran car boys use this product together with Fernox Preservative to stop the crud forming in the first place!

Bruce.

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40 minutes ago, astontr6 said:

You cannot beat giving your cooling system a good dose of Fernox Cleaner F3, which will remove Sludge, Scale and Debris. It is for Central Heating Systems but it certainly removes the scale around 5 & 6 cylinders and unblocks the block drain plug. The veteran car boys use this product together with Fernox Preservative to stop the crud forming in the first place!

Bruce.

Good idea in the F3 cleaner Bruce, it transformed the central heating in my old house!

F1 is the preservative, but i’m unsure about using that in the TR as it may not have a suitable additive mix and isn’t antifreeze

Steve

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46 minutes ago, Steves_TR6 said:

Good idea in the F3 cleaner Bruce, it transformed the central heating in my old house!

F1 is the preservative, but i’m unsure about using that in the TR as it may not have a suitable additive mix and isn’t antifreeze

Steve

Hi Steve,

A friend of mine uses the Fernox preservative in his old Crossley with anti freeze and has had no problems for a good number of years.     

Bruce

 

51 minutes ago, Steves_TR6 said:

Good idea in the F3 cleaner Bruce, it transformed the central heating in my old house!

F1 is the preservative, but i’m unsure about using that in the TR as it may not have a suitable additive mix and isn’t antifreeze

Steve

I

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On 5/14/2019 at 2:57 PM, trtyme said:

I have the rust water issue also. Engine only has maybe 1000 miles on it. They evidently didn't clean the block out. Tried getting that plug out, couldn't budge it. So after every drive I'd drain the rad, flush till clean and do the same over and over ha ha ha! Probably 15 times now. Never ending.

Put Fernox in it that will sort it out! Run engine a few times for a few days before draining including driving to make sure it is up two full temperature. Then try that block plug again? 

Bruce.

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5 minutes ago, Mike C said:

Good grief, snow. The Aust Met Bureau has reduced our predicted maximum today to 41 degrees C. If I take the TR out I have to put towels on the seats to avoid bottom fry.

For us to get 41C bottom fry we would have to sit on the BBQ.

 

Roger

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If you have a high torque starter and are flushing the block through the side drain either remove the starter or protect it well from water etc.  I learned this the hard way, got a good lesson in dismantling the starter though to remove the resulting corrosion to try and get it working again:angry:

The wrong placement of the drain hole on some these starters, on the top as supplied for TR fitment, is covered in other posts.

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Thanks Chris,

I had been looking at this. Following the cleaner I had intended to drain, refill and run the engine to circulate, flush and fill again, repeat twice to ensure the passages were as clear as possible and that all the cleaner had been removed. Then fill with antifreeze / water mix. So guess I'll have to protect the starter or this could go on pass lockdown !

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Having cut up one of the wife's wellingtons to protect the starter ( I think / hope they are the ones that leak  ), Holts speed flush, Fernox 3 for 2 days, running and flushing lots of yuck came out but not a dribble from the drain hole. So having filled with 50%-50% Bluecol and de-ionised water decided to pop her away until we can have a really good run. May leave the cleaning process till next year and repeat as she has been running fine, at which time will fit a drain as Ed,s ( nice One ) if there's anything to drain away:blink: Good news is I now have heat in the cabin which is where this all started.:)

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Now I’m not recommending this but, with mine I pulled out the block drain and fished around with a length of wire coat hangar. Then disconnected the heater hoses and connected up to mains pressure. It worked! eventually a great big brown slug of **** slowly oozed out. Then reversed the flow every few minutes until it ran clear. I used the heater valve to direct the flow back through the heater and removed the rad cap to flush the radiator.

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