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Best fluid stuff for flushing out Radiator & Cylinder head


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What stuff do people use ....My car is running ok and not overheating but has not been flushed for over 30 years!....We only changed the fluid and put antifreeze in when we got it going again last year

My concerns are buying stuff that does to little or buying stuff that is so strong it causes leakes!!

 

Many thanks

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Have a search for "Restore Plus", watch a video of how it works and then if you decide to get some you can order it from here: http://www.filtrationcontrol.com/filtration/fleetguard/

Note that there are two products:

Restore - good for cleaning out oil/gunk 

Restore Plus - good for removing corrosion

Ian

Edited by iani
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Above & behind the starter motor/solenoid there is a 7/8" bolt head on the side of the engine block- you can see it in this photo, under the manifold & in front of the throttle linkage vertical arm (LHD USA engine bay). To loosen it use a 6 point socket, with a flex connector and extensions to a ratchet.

Anything other than a 6-point socket may not grip well, & may round out the bolt head. It's in there tightly.

If you remove this bolt, you will be able to flush out years of yucky engine crud, including original factory casting sand. Use anti-seize paste when retightening bolt.

All I did was to pour water into the top of the radiator until the flushed engine crud ran clean out the bolt hole. Same with radiator itself, open bottom pep-cock.

There are flushing agents available, but this worked well for my TR6 engine.

You will want the heater core passages open, and fan/blower functioning, so that when you run the engine, fresh water circulates through the heater core & core hoses.

Flush as necessary with fresh water- then fill cooling system with 50% coolant/anti-freeze and 50% distilled water.

Cheers

Walt

DSCF1171 (1).JPG

Edited by Sapphire72
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Thanks for that...Very useful...Is this the bolt you mean please?

I don't have access to a water supply with a hose....Can you do it with just a watering can do you think or do you need more pressure?

Are you suggesting you have the engine running whilst you are doing this (sorry i'm a novice)

 

 

engineblock2.jpg

Edited by jogger321
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1 hour ago, iani said:

Thanks for that Ian

The "Restore" seems to be sold by quite a few vendors on Ebay but nobody seems to sell "Restore Plus" and as far as I can see on the link you gave me their online shop is da dead link

 

1 hour ago, iani said:

 

Have a search for "Restore Plus", watch a video of how it works and then if you decide to get some you can order it from here: http://www.filtrationcontrol.com/filtration/fleetguard/

Note that there are two products:

Restore - good for cleaning out oil/gunk 

Restore Plus - good for removing corrosion

Ian

 

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4 hours ago, jogger321 said:

Thanks for that...Very useful...Is this the bolt you mean please?

I don't have access to a water supply with a hose....Can you do it with just a watering can do you think or do you need more pressure?

Are you suggesting you have the engine running whilst you are doing this (sorry i'm a novice)

 

 

engineblock2.jpg

Good questions.

Yes, that is the block plug that you have an arrow pointing to. 

Yes, you can pour from a container, no pressure required.

After you have clean water coming out the plug hole, close it back up.

Then fill the system with fresh water.

Subsequent operation would be to run the engine with the heater valve wide open & the blower motor on high (to flush the heater core & hoses).

The idea with this second operation is to flush the entire cooling/heating system--- with fresh water---, perhaps once or twice, draining from the radiator bottom until you get clean water coming out.

It is really that simple.

Finally, drain the fresh water and fill your system with the 50-50 solution of coolant & distilled water and run the engine for awhile, checking from the radiator top, that fluid is at the correct level.

When the thermostat is open (normal operating temperature, engine idling) you should see the coolant moved by the water pump, at a steady flow, looking into the radiator with cap off.

When that is all done, check your radiator overflow container- it should be 1/4th to 1/2 full.

 

Edited by Sapphire72
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6 hours ago, jogger321 said:

Thanks for that...Very useful...Is this the bolt you mean please?

I don't have access to a water supply with a hose....Can you do it with just a watering can do you think or do you need more pressure?

Are you suggesting you have the engine running whilst you are doing this (sorry i'm a novice)

 

 

engineblock2.jpg

You may have a plug or a tap at that location but in either case there is a good chance that when you remove the plug or open the tap, nothing will come out because the rear cylinders are all silted up and the exit is blocked.

Stan

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10 hours ago, jogger321 said:

 

 

I emailed filtrationcontrol and asked if they could supply, I had it delivered 24hrs later.

Ian

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5 hours ago, foster461 said:

You may have a plug or a tap at that location but in either case there is a good chance that when you remove the plug or open the tap, nothing will come out because the rear cylinders are all silted up and the exit is blocked.

Stan

Hi Stan...If that is the case and its all silted up what are the options?

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30 minutes ago, jogger321 said:

Hi Stan...If that is the case and its all silted up what are the options?

Unravel a metal coat hanger and give the drain hole a good poking around.  Go in as far as possible and to the sides.

It may free up a small amount to get a flow but will not be successful all around the pot.

Roger 

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4 hours ago, RogerH said:

Unravel a metal coat hanger and give the drain hole a good poking around.  Go in as far as possible and to the sides.

It may free up a small amount to get a flow but will not be successful all around the pot.

Roger 

In the worst cases the two rear cylinders are pretty much surrounded with concrete-like material and the only remedy is to pull the head and remove it by whatever means you can including the coat hanger and elbow grease technique. This was exactly my situation. I could poke a metal object into the drain hole until I hit the cylinder wall but nothing drained out. I had just poked a hole in the sediment. Hopefully you wont have this problem.

There is a timing cover bolt that goes into the water jacket and removing this bolt will allow the block to drain and drop the coolant below the top of the block so that you can remove the head without flooding the sump

Stan

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I pulled this out of the water jacket of my block.  It was blocking the drain.  A commercial hot tank treatment didnt touch it, nor would any ordinary flush process.  Consensus seems to be that it is casting sand, and is very common.

Ed

SDC12613a.JPG

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43 minutes ago, ed_h said:

I pulled this out of the water jacket of my block.  It was blocking the drain.  A commercial hot tank treatment didnt touch it, nor would any ordinary flush process.  Consensus seems to be that it is casting sand, and is very common.

Ed

SDC12613a.JPG

Nope thats scale from hard water.

Stuart.

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22 hours ago, jogger321 said:

What stuff do people use ....My car is running ok and not overheating but has not been flushed for over 30 years!....We only changed the fluid and put antifreeze in when we got it going again last year

My concerns are buying stuff that does to little or buying stuff that is so strong it causes leakes!!

 

Many thanks

Jogger

Hi

FWIW, the military use Rust Veto.  I know that the product is designed for hydraulic systems, but, as a cleaner and preventative measure, once you have your system cleared, it has merit.

Although light oil based, it can be flushed with water glycol and is emulsifying, so, will not damage your system

The one suitable for water based systems is; https://www.houghtonintl.com/en-gb/node/1582

John

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1 hour ago, stuart said:

Nope thats scale from hard water.

Stuart.

Maybe, but it sure looks and feels more like sand than scale.  It also doesn't react to acids the way typical scale does.

Ed

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Bung in  some phoshoric acid,  or a gallon of white vinegar will suffice.

and just run engine for a week or so,

the hotter the stuff gets, the better it wuks,

an its  cheeper than all the other so called wonder stuff.

drain, flush, bung some moer in,  run a few weeks, then drain, re fill wid anti freeze

 

Moer info for yer hoose if yer boilers mek,n a noise.,!!!

Me boiler in hoose was acting up,  , kettling is the term, bangin an all sorts of funny noises.

tried 3 lots of different stuff frae the  plumbcenter

 Very expensive, total sheite, still bang,n away

So I put in a Pint of 30% phos acid,

noises stopped within  half hour.

left it in for week, drained it off, wid hose pipe attached t, the top rad drain off

there some serious sheite come oot,

 

Edited by GT6M
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When I did mine, I left the heater matrix closed off from the main system, and did this seperately.

Ran for severla short trips with scale remover, before moving into flushing mode.

I used Roger's trick with the coat hanger for 'phase 2' and shifted loads more crud.

I managed to rig a hosepipe connection to fit the block drain plug hole after that, and flushed 'upwards and outwards' from there  --- more crud!!

I then ran the same methodology through the heater system from the external hoses, as I had (in a former life) managed to completely bung up a Ford heater matrix (really thin tubework) with the crud released from the block, thus turning a 'not very good heater' into 'no heater at all'  -- lesson learned there!

Ultimately, the engine now runs way cooler than it did before, which I take to be a success!

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5 hours ago, Fireman049 said:

The second photo. shows the block after chemical cleaning.

Tom.

 

DSCF0011 - Copy - Copy.JPG

Tom

are the fig of 8/liner seats machined or hand finished in the picture. The seem very uniformed after Chem cleaning. 

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