Lebro Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 That is not good. The two missing dog teeth would not be a problem, probably caused by "racing changes" or poor synchromesh. The extra debris from the overdrive though is cause for concern - something has broken up badly somewhere. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 22, 2019 Report Share Posted April 22, 2019 Thats pretty much as far as you should drive that, box rebuilds arent as dear as the £2k your quoting (TR Shop will sell you a box outright for £2195) Talk to ORS https://www.overdrive-repairs.co.uk/ Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ricky30dk Posted April 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2019 Hi Stuart - that’s true - more research is obviously required. Logistics could be a problem, though I see that Bastuck also has a range of exchange refurbished boxes for less than €1000 - Germany is at least connected by land! Thank you all for your input - what a wonderful resource this forum is - I hope I can also contribute something one day =) For the moment I will leave the gearbox cover off and see what it sounds like under load when I get the engine running (and the brakes bled!). So, not ecstatic, but not depressed either.....it could be worse. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 23, 2019 Report Share Posted April 23, 2019 Yes that is what I was fearing you would find. Was there a magnetic washer in the base of the big brass plug? I am seeing steel shavings and a wash of brass. This is pointing at a layshaft failure. So, it looks like the gearbox has had a failure, and either the problem is unrepaired or the unit has been repaired and the debris not cleaned out. I think I would carry on as you are. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ricky30dk Posted May 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 now I have the car through the Danish equivalent of the UK MOT, I managed to get a few miles of driving in and it seems like the gearbox is working as it should - as is the OD. I think I will pootle about this summer and see if I feel like a challenging winter project Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 3, 2020 Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 6 hours ago, ricky30dk said: now I have the car through the Danish equivalent of the UK MOT, I managed to get a few miles of driving in and it seems like the gearbox is working as it should - as is the OD. I think I will pootle about this summer and see if I feel like a challenging winter project Goods news Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ricky30dk Posted December 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 Just to close off this thread : after driving a few hundred miles this (glorious) summer and considering trips further afield, I decided for peace of mind that I would find a refurbished box to install over the winter break. In defiance of Brexit, COVID and every other obstacle the fates could throw at it, the gearbox arrived earlier this week and will be fitted in the coming weeks. My thanks go to Richard Crewe-Read and the Cox family for squeezing my order in before the Brexit deadline and for securely packing it in this very strong crate. PS, if anyone in Denmark or northern Germany is looking for a working TR4A gearbox with A-type OD, I have one going for a reasonable price Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 26, 2020 Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 is that a J type overdrive? Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted December 26, 2020 Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: is that a J type overdrive? Peter W Peter - not wishing to butt into Riches thread, but yes it is - it's actually a Stag box with a 28% ratio J type OD. Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ricky30dk Posted February 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2021 (edited) OK, the new box is in (well, as good as), with heartfelt thanks to : 1. Rich Crewe-Read, who answered texts at all hours and provided great advice 2. TR Shop who delivered a J-type conversion bracket set to me in Denmark within 24 hours (and at a significant discount to Moss) 3. Members of this forum, who with their informative posts and photographs over the years answered just about every question I could have and provided options that suit every ability and equipment. This knowledge base is such a valuable resource and always my first port of call if I want to find out how others have solved my problem. I offer my humble report only to add to this knowledge base : Removal - I will not repeat the general guidance given by others, only to confirm that it is possible to remove the A-type overdrive gearbox with one reasonably fit human, some spanners, two jacks and a couple of bits of wood Installation This was largely the reverse of removal, with the following tweaks/confirmation of what others have written : a) Removing the drain plug allows the gearbox to sit better on the piece of wood - in other words, fill her up after she's installed. b) If you cannot align the trolley jack in the direction of movement you will be pushing the gearbox in, consider putting at least the front wheels on a greased nylon plate (for example an old chopping board that you have hoarded for 7 years!) c) I couldn't find a suitably longer stud in my box of mixed leftover bits, but I did find an old air filter bolt, which I sawed the head off and put a notch in the top to enable it to be screwed in and out. This proved invaluable in holding the weight at the front end while other "issues" were overcome d) I'm not too proud to admit that I had to butcher the floorpan slightly to get the clutch arm through. Presumably this can be avoided if you have four or six arms or a crane, or are cleverer than me...... at least I got to use the Dremel Santa brought me.... e) I don't know why this happens, but I've read it at least twice in other posts - just at the point of giving up in despair of ever getting the damn input shaft to go that final inch into the clutch plate, I leant under the car to jack the back of the engine as high as I could without fear of the gearbox fouling the bulkhead. When I gave it one last heave from inside the car, the bloody thing slid right in. I have yet to finally connect the mounting plate conversion kit - however the main plate fits quite well, missing the exhaust bracket and with only a little material needing to be trimmed from the chassis bracket on one side. As a final note, when I went to remove the clutch bearing carrier from the old gearbox, this happened : I'm not sure how long that would have lasted before I was left stranded somewhere with no clutch. It makes me so much happier that I decided to replace the gearbox! Edited February 20, 2021 by ricky30dk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted February 20, 2021 Report Share Posted February 20, 2021 There is no need to butcher the floor in any way just rotate the gearbox yes on your own Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted February 21, 2021 Report Share Posted February 21, 2021 As I am going to be removing my gearbox as soon as my son can work with me (i.e. Covid restrictions relaxed) and it's about 50 years since last I did this horrible job, can I take it that to get the clutch lever clear of the floor, one rotates the gearbox clockwise (looking from the overdrive towards the engine). Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted February 21, 2021 Report Share Posted February 21, 2021 10 minutes ago, ianc said: As I am going to be removing my gearbox as soon as my son can work with me (i.e. Covid restrictions relaxed) and it's about 50 years since last I did this horrible job, can I take it that to get the clutch lever clear of the floor, one rotates the gearbox clockwise (looking from the overdrive towards the engine). Ian Cornish Yes Ian thats the way I did mine. On refitting I also used a long stud to hang the gearbox on to help guide it back on. I also wired the lever forward to ensure the thrust bearing stayed on the fork H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted February 21, 2021 Report Share Posted February 21, 2021 Thanks, Hamish. Ian Gibson & others have provided me with very helpful instructions, which include the use of one or more studs to assist in re-installation. However, I have noted that, as I thought, the gearbox should be rotated clockwise to permit the clutch lever to clear the floor, and your advice to wire the clutch lever forward, and I will add these to my own check list. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted February 21, 2021 Report Share Posted February 21, 2021 Would it be easier to fit the engine and gearbox as one unit if you had an engine crane? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted February 21, 2021 Report Share Posted February 21, 2021 Yes but the two together have to initially go in at a very steep angle, so the front wheels have to be off the ground (or the car over a pit) then they have to be levelled out as the box goes under the the front bulkhead even then its a tight squeeze getting the sump down past the front chassis cross member, plus, if it's engine and box out and then back in again then there is a lot of dismantling to be done ie:- bonnet, rad, exhaust, all the engine umbilical ties, front chassis cross tube the list goes on and you've still got to do all the cabin seats, gearbox tunnel/dash support removal etc that you'd have to do just to take the box out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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