Mark69 Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 Having spent the last few weeks getting the engine to run,I could hear a slight tapping sound coming from the rear of the engine.Assumed it was a valve tappet noise. But upon checking all seemed fine and within tolerances Wednesday I filled and bleed the clutch system and the noise became more audible. It seems the noise is coming from the cross shaft in the box that the bearing fork attaches to. This noise is not constant it increases or is proportional to engine revs, if I put my finger on the end which protrudes out the casing on the drivers side (RHD) the noise stops, slight pressure on clutch does the same. Filled and bleed brakes last night and drove it for the first time last night up and down my drive, managed to get into third . Gearbox runs and changes fine. PS. Bushes in gearbox housing felt tight and with very little play when reassembled. New carrier and RHP bearing. Any thoughts gratefully received Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 Hi Mark, is the axial spring installed on the clutch shaft? Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted March 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 11 minutes ago, Waldi said: Hi Mark, is the axial spring installed on the clutch shaft? Waldi Yes Waldi, used the old one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 Are the correct dowel bolts fitted and in the correct positions between the engine and gearbox? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted March 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 (edited) Yes John, dotted the i's and crossed the t's as far as clutch and gearbox was concerned. Edited March 29, 2019 by Mark69 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 Does your bearing carrier have the roll pin in the channel where the cross pins run? It could be the carrier is spinning up against the pin and going back and forth as its in contact with the pressure plate fingers. Thats why it stops when you apply pressure to the arm. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted March 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 New one didn't have a pin Stuart, but had the holes for one. I removed and fitted the pin from the old carrier. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted April 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 Dropped the box out last night, it looks like the noise was coming from the contact between plate and bearing. I found two of the fingers on the clutch cover were sitting proud and oscillating the bearing causing the carrier to rattle within the fork. Not sure why this would happen ,cover was a refurbished unit which as sat on my shelf for a year or two then bolted to engine about 12 months ago before use recently. I have an old laycock unit and plate thinking of sending these to Precision clutch services for refurb. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Oddball Posted April 3, 2019 Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 1 hour ago, Mark69 said: I have an old laycock unit and plate thinking of sending these to Precision clutch services for refurb. Best idea,I did that last year and the service was great,I think I had the cover and plate back within around 8 Days.All working perfectly. Cameron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 3, 2019 Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 I use them for refurbing clutches too, they are very good. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted April 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2019 (edited) New clutch arriving tomorrow, noticed the bearing carrier is very loose ,compared with original one just over 1mm wider internally. Is this a common problem. Edited April 11, 2019 by Mark69 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 11, 2019 Report Share Posted April 11, 2019 Hi Mark, there was a post the other day from Rich in Denmark (I think) he had the opposite problem in that the carrier would not fit on the extension tube. Clearly these items are not well made. Why not measure the extension tube and get a carrier to fit better. Possibly buy a new extension tube/carrier assembly. If the gap is too big the carrier can cock over and dig in. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted April 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 I've been advised I should have packed grease between carrier and extension tube. Is this correct, I thought this was a dry joint so as not to get contaminated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 12, 2019 Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 Hi Mark, I understand the modern thinking is to lightly grease the extension tube. Not really possible to pack it. A bronze carrier should not need it as it is self lubricating Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted April 12, 2019 Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 Hi Mark, I added a bit of molykote grease, but very little. I would not install a carrier with that much clearance since the risk is it will bite in the extension piece as Roger mentions. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted April 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2019 Update, sorted the bell housing shaft bushes fitted new pins in the clutch fork, fitted a new bearing carrier. Had a few issues, the pins were binding in the carrier when operating fork through 90°,managed to sort this with a diamond file. Next the carrier was a little tight, freed this with emery paper. All ok until I fitted the bearing back to square one all tight again, out came emery paper again. Clutch bearing mechanism is now working perfectly with very little play. Now the hard part getting the box back in. Any useful tips out there gratefully received. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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