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One step forward.. then one step back: Starter Solenoid?


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Setting-up the new ignition system with short bursts of the starter motor to locate tdc (battery was low and getting flat due to sporadic charging only over winter and then this intense use - nothing new here).

However, then had shock of sticking and staying engaged, turning off ignition had no effect; over 40+ years of 4cyl TR ownership, Ive had numerous times of solenoid ‘clicking / clunking’ rather than engaging in above circumstances but, never known solenoid to stick the other way ie engaged?

System is completely standard and ‘unmolested’ for nigh on afore mentioned 40years. Has anyone else experienced similar?

Am I barking up the wrong tree linking to low battery output, first idea is just to replace solenoid (is quality repro available?) seems too risky to try again with charged system if any risk of solenoid reingaging whilst  out with bonnet down etc? - Do I need to go battery isolator route?

All feedback really appreciated

Thanks, Tony

 

 

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Hi Tony,

Certainly go down the battery isolator route for peace of mind in any event.

We have 50/60 year old cars now, stuff will happen and a smoke filled cockpit, (It coming from under the dash)

is not a pleasant experience, - ask me how I know!

I would have thought your process of lots of bursts of he starter motor to revolve engine

was more likely the culprit it causing the solenoid to stick, I would take the supply off and hold it to the solenoid termial, after a gentle tap or two

but likely burned inside after years of clicking, if it stuck once it will again, -  and under inconveinient circumstances.

John.

 

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Hi Tony,

it may be the internals are stiff and the solenoid does not go back.

Then it will stay running. 

I would open it and see what it looks like.

Waldi

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Thanks John, Waldi,... and Bob,

All makes sense, don’t think they were made to be opened up but do you then bolt/rivet back together?

I’ve got no reason to believe this solenoid was not the original fitting when car was built nearly 60 years ago and I’m certainly not against replacing now; my big concern is if I have not got to the root cause then it could always happen again with replacement ..... and I’m getting too old for this kind of ‘excitement’

D30A03F2-DB7A-463B-B9C1-D56DF226BB76.jpeg

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Sorry for any confusion John, it’s a late (nearly last off the line) 3A..

.I did put a (also late) 4A Engine in 40+ years ago for a bit mor uuumph trying to keep up with ‘Dave ‘Lightning Brown’, Neil Remington etc in their heydays and minor (although in hindsight possibly not strictly fair) advantage in the rallying... Everything else was and remains very original

 

Tony

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Thats a 4a solenoid, your best bet is to just buy a new one as the internals of them are a bit flimsy compared to the earlier type.

Stuart.

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I may be wrong, but I think ALL Lucas items have a manufactured month and year date stamp on them somewhere. This makes it easy to see if an item has been replaced during the life of the car. (Unless someone has gone to the trouble to find an exact replacement with the same month and year stamp. I do believe some extreme concours people actually do that.)

Charlie.

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3 hours ago, Charlie D said:

I do believe some extreme concours people actually do that.)

Charlie.

They do, I have had requests for specific dated Lucas stuff before now.

Stuart.

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No Waldi, you were correct I opened up to find everything remarkably clean and dry but, does appear solenoid has been pulling on one side rather than the other most likely for some time, I ve ordered a new one

 

Thanks Stuart and Charlie - Don’t think these solenoids are date stamped, unless it’s in code; the bake light does has some numbers

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FWIW I had the same problem on my TR3a. I had fitted a new ‘Lucas’ solenoid that probably came from China. It meant that I had to stop using the button to turn the engine over when working in th engine bay. I replaced it with a S/H one that I picked up at the IWE and the problem disappeared. 

Rgds Ian

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