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Hi all i  have to  replace the nyloc nuts on the rear hubs due to them getting dipped in acid just the nut not the hub any way i bought some new ones 5/8 unf but the socket size is 15/16 where as the  original is over an inch socket I think about inch and 1/8 will this matter .Also while I have your attention when I bolted the hubs onto the trailing arms I used a spring washer and nut should that have been nyloc nuts.By the way I did the studs in the trailing arms used 5/16 unf helicoils as was suggested seams to have worked out ok

regards john

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TR4A-6 IRS?

From memory the big hub nuts for the rear stub axle are exotic - not run of the mill regular nylocs.

Cheers

Peter W

PS the late 6 used a slotted nut with split pin. It is the same nut as real Mini front hub o drive shaft.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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John,

where you use nyloc nuts, you do not need springwashers.

If in doubt, look in the Moss catalog, that shows clearly what is used where. That is what I do.

Regards,

Waldi

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Here’s a question regarding nyloc nuts. How far does the threaded end of the bolt have to engage a nyloc nut?

On my TR4a, I recently replaced the lower rubber steering shaft coupling, with a metal universal joint from a TR6. It came with two bolts and nyloc nuts, but when tightened, the bolt ends are about 1mm short of being flush with the end of the nut. Is that sufficient, or are the supplied bolts too short?

thanks

Jim

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Always use a bolt which protrudes through the nyloc, any more than a thread is a waste but why risk a lessened anti loosen effect if the bolt is a mm under the nyloc end, the nylon anti loose collar isn't that wide.

Mick Richards 

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Here is the Technical Bulletin about the change of rear hub nut from nyloc to split pinned slotted nut - NOTE the torque required for the nut dropped from 120 ft lbs to 90 ft lbs.

http://www.triumphsonly.com/pages/technical/74-f-1.htm

 

Cheers

Peter W

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