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John McCormack

Clutch plate stuck to flywheel

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John similar problem I had many years ago in a Hillman Imp,  engine out three times renewed everything with exception of the fork, problem eventually found was a fractured fork which was opening when operating the clutch. 

Paul

 

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If the plate isn’t stuck to the flywheel, but is behaving as though it is, it seems that it must be remaining clamped by the cover/pressure plate.

This could be due to the pressure plate net being correct, the slave cylinder being incorrect, the release bearing being incorrect, the pushrod being too short etc.

You've already checked some of these items, but I’d be inclined to start again with the ‘external’ hydraulics, pushrods and levers now that you’ve got the gearbox back in.

David

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16 minutes ago, david ferry said:

If the plate isn’t stuck to the flywheel, but is behaving as though it is, it seems that it must be remaining clamped by the cover/pressure plate.

This could be due to the pressure plate net being correct, the slave cylinder being incorrect, the release bearing being incorrect, the pushrod being too short etc.

You've already checked some of these items, but I’d be inclined to start again with the ‘external’ hydraulics, pushrods and levers now that you’ve got the gearbox back in.

David

Yes David it was one of those. I spoke to a mate with a TR2 who had some clutch issues after a 40 year restoration. He had to put the pushrod in the top hole of the lever to get it working. I moved the pushrod to the top hole and adjusted it out a lot and, lo and behold, the clutch works. It should work in the centre hole and with a shorter rod length but it works, I will sort it out later.

I drove the car up and down my back lane a few times and it drives quite well. Steering is good, noting I have aligned it by eye. The brakes pulled up straight and didn't need a lot of pressure either forward or in reverse. The gearbox changed between 1st and 2nd smoothly. This is the first time the car has moved under its own power since December 1966.

The generator isn't charging but that should be easily fixed after I identify the generator or regulator as the culprit.

A few rattles the major one being the soft top bow mounts captive nuts which are loose in their cage, as they should be.

The rear springs are very stiff, I have a feeling they might be the racing springs from the cars previous life so a new set might be in order.

A pretty good day all round. Beer o'çlock here.

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Did we mention to check the taper pin is not sheared ?

Bob.

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47 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Did we mention to check the taper pin is not sheared ?

Bob.

Yes Bob. The taper pin is new and solid and backed up with a roll pin cross drilled into the operating shaft.

I did have this problem with my other TR2. The taper pin had snapped but there was enough still catching the shaft to allow the clutch to work. When I did this clutch we backed up the taper pin with the roll pin. I checked it while the box was out and it all looked in order, it hadn't been used so I can't see it would have been an issue.

 

Edited by John McCormack

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I had a similar problem with a 3a that came in part built a few years ago and we discovered in the end the clutch plate was in the wrong way round.

Stuart.

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8 minutes ago, stuart said:

I had a similar problem with a 3a that came in part built a few years ago and we discovered in the end the clutch plate was in the wrong way round.

Stuart.

Interesting. The plate we use from Moss will only go in one way, the pressure plate won't mate up to the flywheel if it is in backwards.

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1 hour ago, Lebro said:

Did we mention to check the taper pin is not sheared ?

Bob.

You have got me thinking now. I checked the operation of the shaft and thrust race which showed no sign of anything untoward.

But I didn't look closely at the pins themselves. Both the taper pin and roll pin are new, the clutch had not been used and therefore they haven't had an opportunity to break. But a long throw was the symptom of a broken taper pin on my other TR2 (it's clutch was in service for many years and miles before it broke and it didn't then have a roll pin backup).

I will keep this potential problem in mind and if I don't find another cause I will whip the box off again before I complete fitting the upholstery. I'm pretty good at it now, without removing the clutch the box will be off and on in 2-3 hours.

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on a similar theme, a friend just pulled the diesel engine to bits on the barge he is building because it had seized solid. After he had it mostly in bits his dad mentioned that he had tightened up a loose gearbox bellhousing bolt that he had spotted was loose. Sure enough the bolt was about 2mm too long and was fouling the flywheel, another washer under the head amazingly freed off the engine. My, was the air blue that day.

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I had the same adjustment problems with my 3A clutch for many years. In the end it was discovered by my local garage that the push rod was too short. We checked the Moss catalogue and there are different mounting plates and pushrods for the Lockheed  or the Girling. It turns out that I had the Lockheed parts on my Girling slave cylinder. I bought the new correct parts and it works as it should , connected in the correct hole.

Are you sure that you have the right parts.?  It took me years to work it out. Good luck. Richard and B.

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4 hours ago, Richardtr3a said:

I had the same adjustment problems with my 3A clutch for many years. In the end it was discovered by my local garage that the push rod was too short. We checked the Moss catalogue and there are different mounting plates and pushrods for the Lockheed  or the Girling. It turns out that I had the Lockheed parts on my Girling slave cylinder. I bought the new correct parts and it works as it should , connected in the correct hole.

Are you sure that you have the right parts.?  It took me years to work it out. Good luck. Richard and B.

Quite possible the part is the culprit. The previous owner bought the car in 1966 and I bought it in bits from him. The slave cylinder bits were in one box but whether they were all the right parts I don't know.

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I adjusted it further today and put the fork back in the middle hole. It doesn't quite feel right, i.e. it is different to my other TR2, but it works ok. I posted a couple of videos of its first drive since 1966 elsewhere on this forum.

Thank you all for the comments and advice. They were all helpful as were a few of the mates here in Sydney who gave me advice today. 

This restoration is a team effort.

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