Pi set up

[Mark69]

I am about to change my the three vertical links on my early cp. System as never been set up. 

I have slackened off the cold start adjustment, I have no accelerator cable fitted. 

I would like to know if there is a set depth I set the accelerator adjustment screw before I start connecting vertical links. 

Mark. 

[Waldi]

Hi Mark,

I did this as follows:

1) I undid (like removed)  the 3 little screws on the spindle levers, and do not use them.left them for cosmetic purpose only.

2) Then screwed the cental throttle screw a bit.

3) adjusted each linkage (mine came from Moss) until I could see them just starting opening. Visual is more accurate than feeler gages I found.

4) slackened the central nut so all 6 butterflies were fully closed and verified all  3 TB started opening at the same time.

5) started engine, and when fully warm, set air idle (by-pass) valve to have around 900 rpm (TB’s fully closed).

5) Increased rpm with central (throttle cable) screw to 1700-2000 rpm.

6) Then did final adjustment to the 3 linkages when engine was warm and running at 1700-2000 rpm, no choke. Used a (Crypton) flow meter for this.

That’s it and running ok, but no real driving experience with this method, since my car is not on the road yet.

Waldi

 

[Mark69]

Thanks Waldi,

so just screwed in a little.

Spent Sunday priming fuel system and fired her up for the first time in twelve years on Monday night.

Started on the turn of the key, but very up and down Rev wise.(air bleed screw fully shut)

Old vertical links have wear so replacing these with the improved moss ones.

Mark.

[Waldi]

Hi Mark,

that’s an exciting feeling right?

make sure you keep it around 2000 rpm for 20 mins or so as recommended by Mick and others, that’s what I did at least.

Waldi

[iani]

1 hour ago, Waldi said:

Hi Mark,

that’s an exciting feeling right?

make sure you keep it around 2000 rpm for 20 mins or so as recommended by Mick and others, that’s what I did at least.

Waldi

I will be changing my head soon, I have a new cam going in at the same time, I see that the cam manufacturer, Newman  states "There is no need to run the engine at 3000 RPM for 20 minutes. Just treat the engine as if it was new for the 100 miles then off you go." I've seen the 20 mins advice in several places, it's hard to know what is right!

[Waldi]

Hi Ian,

I thought the same, and lubed the cams and followers with graphogen and cam-lube, for belts and braces. It took a while before my engine run, so was glad I did this, since all that time, no or limited oil reaches the cam/followers.

I followed the 2000rpm /20 minutes recommendation. During this time I checked for leaks, temperature, pressure and ign timing, so they flew by.

I will never know if this was needed, but cannot see why it would hurt, and the higher rev provides better lubrication on this critical area of our engine. The stories on this forum about failed cams is a clear indication we need to do all we can to reduce this risk.

in short: I would do it again.

Waldi

[Motorsport Mickey]

Hi Mark,

Can't you spare 20 minutes from your life to ensure your engine is bedded in and the camshaft doesn't lose it's knobbly bits within the first couple of thousand miles ?

There is no downside from you running at 2000 revs (or thereabouts for 20 mins) the oil pump won't drop to bits, and the rest of the engine will be happy. Over the last 10 years or so we've had many rebuilt cars with new cams lose the cams and followers in a very short time, why is that ? why when rebuilding engines in the same way as been practiced over the last 30-40 years suddenly and for no good reason, are the cams are made of cheese and the cam followers made of putty ? They aren't are they ? the suppliers have continued using their same materials and practices as previously which have given good results and reliability. So what else has changed ?

Well the oil manufacturers have discovered that "full fat "ZDDP which was previously regarded as essential for the declining  numbers of old car engines but unfortunately poisons newer cars with Catalytic convertors, can now be substituted with new additives and a "my little pony" amount of ZDDP that doesn't affect the many hundreds of thousands of new cars with their "cats" giving them a lucrative and enormous market. Who'd have thought it ?

The 50 or 60 years of empirical evidence of all sorts of "flat tappet" engines that many TR and Classic car owners have of ZDDP being the "bees knees" in anti scuff with a side order of "don't you dare destroy my cam" and engines that have run happily and reliably has been put aside, and replaced with ZDDP that has been "optimised" (cordialized) to reduced numbers.

It isn't hard Mark, use a ZDDP heavy (1300 parts Zinc in the ZDDP) oil and run for 20 mins at 2000 or thereabouts (2500 revs won't hurt it, it's just noisier !), and if Newnam cams are correct (now) that won't have done any damage either. Heads you win...tails you win - what's not to like ?

Mick Richards

Edited March 15, 2019 by Motorsport Mickey