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Lead loading and acid dipping


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Hi all

Attention now back on the body tub/panels for a while and I have a few areas I'm thinking of using lead rather than filler as its a skill I'd like to learn.

Before I do will any future dipping remove the lead and can anyone recommend a good source of leading kit?

Thanks

Andy

 

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Hi Andy.

The register have a brilliant disc available through the shop of a seminar about lead loading , It features our very own Stuart Edwards and has some very useful tips on what and what not  materials to use.

You will also find details in the members section of the register web site. The only people who  to my knowledge supply a kit are Frost but there may well be others  

brian

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17 hours ago, PodOne said:

Hi all

Attention now back on the body tub/panels for a while and I have a few areas I'm thinking of using lead rather than filler as its a skill I'd like to learn.

Before I do will any future dipping remove the lead and can anyone recommend a good source of leading kit?

Thanks

Andy

 

Hi Andy

The dipping process does remove lead though much of it was used for filling out joints at the factory rather than repairs.

Kevin

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I have stopped having the dip done as I was finding it very hit and miss with leaving contaminants on or in-between panels and gone back to just having stuff blast cleaned by a guy who really knows his stuff.

Dipping will remove 90% of any lead so if you decide to go down that route then do the leading afterwards.

Frost restoration are about the cheapest to buy the lead (Still a tenner a stick which is dear) from but do a Google search for the solder paint as you need to find the proper Frys Fryolux paint as its much better than the one supplied by the usual suspects. Dont bother with Tallow for shaping as it will contaminate the work (See my CD for how to do it and you can always contact me for any more pointers)

Stuart.

 

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Hi Stuart,

What about pyrolysis, ie heating the car bodywork up to remove the paint and then e coating etc ? do we think that's a goer or is there still a leaching out of product ?

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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Thanks Stuart CD ordered yesterday.

Was set on dipping as I'd not etch primed any of the interior metal in the sills and then e coat. Had read some reports of contamination in seams as a possible issue but some don't seem to have the problem.

Will have to look into blasting and e coat dip if such a process is available.

Andy

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15 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Hi Stuart,

What about pyrolysis, ie heating the car bodywork up to remove the paint and then e coating etc ? do we think that's a goer or is there still a leaching out of product ?

Mick Richards

Thats basically what Enviro strip do first of all to remove the paint and I think Pete Fenlon had similar done up in Manchester somewhere, Thats Ok to get all the paint/filler/lead/underseal off but doesnt address any of the rot problem and you need to then get rid of the mess thats left all over the shell and that means a wash or a dip which isnt good as it tends to force/float all the debris into all the inner box sections. No good E-coating over rust then either.

Stuart.

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15 hours ago, PodOne said:

Thanks Stuart CD ordered yesterday.

Was set on dipping as I'd not etch primed any of the interior metal in the sills and then e coat. Had read some reports of contamination in seams as a possible issue but some don't seem to have the problem.

Will have to look into blasting and e coat dip if such a process is available.

Andy

For any unpainted inner box sections you could always drill access holes and then using a Shutz gun spray Bondarust into the box sections, that will work and then when its dry use the same holes to pump in waxoyl job done, it will out last all of us then.

Stuart.

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10 hours ago, stuart said:

For any unpainted inner box sections you could always drill access holes and then using a Shutz gun spray Bondarust into the box sections, that will work and then when its dry use the same holes to pump in waxoyl job done, it will out last all of us then.

Stuart.

That's one thing I'd done to the sills is four 1/2 inch holes in the back and one each of the end caps to allow any dipping chemicals out and e coat in so your suggestion would work well.

Andy

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