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Fuel Pump Woes

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Hi Ian,

That is the first time I hear this, fwiw.

I cannot see why it would be different for another pump make. The PRV reduces the pressure of the fuel that is going to the MU. The MU is at 105 psi (sorry, it is psi, not bar, as I posted earlier)

Do you know why TRGB recommends this lower set-pressure, I would be interested to understand.

Waldi

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4 minutes ago, Waldi said:

Hi Ian,

That is the first time I hear this, fwiw.

I cannot see why it would be different for another pump make. The PRV reduces the pressure of the fuel that is going to the MU. The MU is at 105 psi (sorry, it is psi, not bar, as I posted earlier)

Do you know why TRGB recommends this lower set-pressure, I would be interested to understand.

Waldi

Gary told me that this style of pump cannot cope with the higher pressure, here are the spec's of the pump:

HI OTP019 Out-Tank Fuel Injection Pump

Fittings In:- 15

Fittings Out:- 12x1.5 Banjo Stub

Pump:- P3019.1

Voltage:- 12v

Flow Ltr/Hr (Max):- 270

Flow Ltr/Hr @ 3 Bar (44psi):-210

Flow Ltr/Hr @ 5 Bar (73psi):- 186

Location To Tank (Mtrs) 0.6

Length (mm):- 195

Diameter (mm):- 58

The low rate would seem to be reducing at higher pressure from these.

Ian

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Hi Ian,

the flow rate of every rotating type pump will drop with increased pressure, that is normal. If a pump is operating at a too high pressure ( higher than what it is designed for) it can fail, yes. Not sure of which make the pump is you have.

Several Bosch pumps also cannot operate at 105 psi, others can, and the flow reduces with pressure increase for all off them. Mine runs very sweet at 105 bar, but has not seen hot summer days, so too soon for me to tell if it is really ok.

I would ask TRGB if the MU and/or injectors require calibration, I would think so.

I’m sure more wise people (Neil?)  will respond soon, I’m sure.

Regards,

Waldi

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I'm shortly going to be changing the head & cam Waldi, I intend putting the car on a rolling road afterwards to have the fuelling set correctly, the place I am going to is familiar with injected Triumph's and is used by Jigsaw Racing routinely.

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Hi Ian

Waldi I think you meant lbf/in2.  Just checked the Lucas manual and pressure at the MU should be between 100-110 so +1 to Waldi.  Ian if you still have a problem I would check your wiring as your pump draws a lot more current than the old Lucas one. I had similar symptoms and it turned out to be the wiring.

Roger

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7 minutes ago, Rogcastle said:

Hi Ian

Waldi I think you meant lbf/in2.  Just checked the Lucas manual and pressure at the MU should be between 100-110 so +1 to Waldi.  Ian if you still have a problem I would check your wiring as your pump draws a lot more current than the old Lucas one. I had similar symptoms and it turned out to be the wiring.

Roger

I don't seem to have a problem now Roger, the car is driving fine, I have set the PRV to the pressure given by the company selling the conversion kit. I show 12.8v at the pump with the lights & fan on, I don't have a radio to turn on, that power is supplied by a direct feed, not the original wiring.

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Hi Ian

You should be ok then.  Enjoy the sunshine wherever it is!

Roger

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Hi iani,

there is some debate as to whether copper plug leads should be used with these electronic ignitions.

I changed to copper in 2017 and have had 2 electronic units fail, may be coincidence, but have gone back to points

and kept the copper leads. Worth checking before you damage your other ignition system.

Regards

John

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1 hour ago, johnw said:

Hi iani,

there is some debate as to whether copper plug leads should be used with these electronic ignitions.

I changed to copper in 2017 and have had 2 electronic units fail, may be coincidence, but have gone back to points

and kept the copper leads. Worth checking before you damage your other ignition system.

Regards

John

Thanks John, I am using Magnecor KV85 leads, I’m fairly sure they aren’t copper.

Edited by iani

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