MKTR Posted February 20, 2019 Report Share Posted February 20, 2019 Morning all, Last night I was doing some final checks under my TR4 following some rear axle work - thinking that my car would be back on the road again after many months. However, I noticed a fuel drip on the outlet pipe of the petrol tank and looked to tighten the connector onto the olive. However, the drip is worse and to my eye seems to stem from above the outlet hole as the protector pad is sodden with fuel. I fear that the brazing around the outlet has given way and I will need to take the tank out to check. Shame because the tank was in good condition and I had coated it with slosh type epoxy a couple of years ago. My questions to the forum are: Can the outlet be re-sealed with a DIY solution like mentioned before - superglue Is any garage likely to take on the task of brazing/soldering the outlet as a repair Is there any point in trying to source a used tank as a replacement Has anyone got any experience of the new steel petrol tanks from TR specialists Have the aluminium petrol tanks improved enough to be value for money, to fit without fettling, and be robust enough to last. If so any recommendations? Many thanks, Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted February 20, 2019 Report Share Posted February 20, 2019 Hi Mark, think you need to get this done properly;- I would not try resealing in situ, it will come back to bite you No garage, but a speciaisit radiator repair shop, usually does petrol tanks. No. No. I fitted an aluminium tank in my TR4 about three years ago, without issue, both fitting and since. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 20, 2019 Report Share Posted February 20, 2019 Hi Mark, firstly you need to remove the tank to see exactly what you are dealing with. A simple pin hole or a sieve !!! Can the outlet be re-sealed with a DIY solution like mentioned before - superglue - NO Is any garage likely to take on the task of brazing/soldering the outlet as a repair - Probably but as above try a radiator shop. Is there any point in trying to source a used tank as a replacement - possibly but see what the problem is first. Has anyone got any experience of the new steel petrol tanks from TR specialists - TRShop do steel tanks. At least one favourable report on here somewhere. Have the aluminium petrol tanks improved enough to be value for money, to fit without fettling, and be robust enough to last. If so any recommendations? The best manufacture stop doing TR stuff a while back. Too many Chinese repro's that are poor. Your Slosh repair may be failing due to ethanol in the fuel - have you got the later version.? Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted February 20, 2019 Report Share Posted February 20, 2019 Mark/Roger There are good quality alloy tanks around made in the UK - I think Rodger was referring to Andy Wiltshire who used to make first class tanks for the TR range but now only does then for TR7/8s, I believe. I have used Alicool (www.alicool.co.uk) alloy fuel tanks and their quality is superb, and as a result of others seeing mine, I have been able to get some for quite a few other fellow members at a discount. I am not aware of any issues as a result of this in terms of quality or fit. All the major TR Suppliers list alloy tanks and certainly the main ones source their tanks from UK sources, from what I can see - there are certainly imported ones around which are cheap and probably come from China, but I personally wouldn't touch these with a barge pole. Mark - have sent you a PM with more info cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobTR3 Posted February 20, 2019 Report Share Posted February 20, 2019 +1 for Alicool. I bought one from them 18 months ago for my TR3 via ebay - good quality and it fits! No problems with it. Avoid the two well known suppliers of TR parts - they source them from the same supplier and they are not made accurately enough to line up with filler cap etc - steel or aluminium, don't ask how I know(only TR3 experience though, but warning enough) ! As for repair of a tank, it's unlikely a garage would touch it, seek out a radiator/fuel tank specialist. They will soak it overnight to clear petrol/fumes etc before going anywhere near it with welding or brazing equipment. To empty the tank of fuel, run it down as low as possible and then pump out the remainder into a jerry can. If you use the drain plug method it will run all over the place not just into your container. You can buy a cheap pump from Machine Mart as an example. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted February 20, 2019 Report Share Posted February 20, 2019 If you use a transparent plastic tube and are careful, you can empty the tank by simply siphoning into suitable container(s). I have done this myself, but I re-emphasise careful - don't get petrol into your mouth! Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted February 20, 2019 Report Share Posted February 20, 2019 About brazing: the episode in Wheelerdealers where the red TR6 is fixed, they “solder” the tank with a leadpatch using a burner. The tank was first steamed out to remove any hydrocarbons. Be very carefull if using heat on a fuel tank. I washed mine first with warm soap and let it vent a couple of weeks in the sun. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted February 20, 2019 Report Share Posted February 20, 2019 Old ex army guy once told me, that they used to feed exhaust fumes into a tank they needed to repair, for say 20 mins, do the job, and then swill with the relevent fuel. Think thtat would work? John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony_C Posted February 21, 2019 Report Share Posted February 21, 2019 Albeit quite some years ago now, I had to get my TR4 tank repaired down in the Algarve region of Portugal, the local garage inverted, brimmed with water and brazed up as good as new in a matter of minutes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted February 21, 2019 Report Share Posted February 21, 2019 (edited) John, Go to times 7:25 and 14:35 on this Skid Factory video and see how they did it! Jim Edited February 21, 2019 by Tr4aJim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MKTR Posted February 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 Hi All, Thanks for your comments. I have pumped the tank out and removed it for inspection. The problem area is a crack in the solder around the outlet nose, and it looks like this might have been repaired before. The area seems quite flexible and so I am not convinced that a solder repair would give me piece of mind for the future. I have had to take the tank out twice before to coat it with slosh and to remove some gasket seal debris and I really want to stop doing that. Therefore I am thinking that a replacement tank is the way to go. shame as the rest of the tank appears to be fine. Regards, Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 22, 2019 Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 Hi Mark, that should not be a soft solder joint. Silver solder or braze would be normal. Take it to a radiator repair shop. I'm sure they will sort it properly. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted February 22, 2019 Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 Mark, I’d be a bit worried to do anything that requires heat now that you have used a slosh sealant inside. It’s bound to burn and flake off locally inside and I’d be surprised if you could get all the debris out with a simple flush. Even multiple flushes might leave some bits half stuck to the metal, just waiting to come off later and clog up the pipes. (Just look at the burning on the outside where the joint was soldered. If that was inside, petrol would seep under the layer and eventually it would detach.) Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MKTR Posted February 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 Thanks All - mind now set on new tank for piece of mind. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 If you opt for an alloy tank, make sure that the mounting brackets are sufficiently strong and well-connected to the body of the tank. When the tank is full, there's about 110 pounds of fuel slopping about inside and I believe that some of the early attempts in alloy failed for lack of strength. Steel tanks are very strong and can cope with the flexing induced in use. And Mick Richards would tell you to install a fire-wall whilst you are undertaking this work. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 According "Project Blinky" mounting tabs on an alloy tank are always prone to breaking off in time. better to hold the tank in place with straps, (metal or webbing I suppose). I tend to think there is much truth in this. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted February 24, 2019 Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 Bob - one of the well-known suppliers, who competes in rallies and hill climbs in his own TR, recognised the problem of bracket failure on alloy tanks and modified the design of his offering to overcome the problem. He tells me that his tanks do not suffer bracket failure - reassuring, as all who have been a passenger in any of his TRs will tell you that he drives VERY rapidly! Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 24, 2019 Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 Hi Ian/Bob, the problem with the Ali tanks is the welding. Generally welded aluminium (whether an alloy or not) tends to leave a weak joint. If it is Aluminium then the whole things is weak anyway and shouldn't be used. If it is an alloy then it should be heat treated after welding. But I bet this is not done - anywhere. So to overcome an inherent problem one should make the tag attachment over a large area. Instead of a 1" fillet weld between tag and tank apply the tag to a 2 " x 2" or even 3" x 3" plate that is welded to the tank. This spreads the load. Better still use an adhesive to bond the tag to the tank. Where possible aircraft are 'glued' together Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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