cubehopper Posted February 16, 2019 Report Share Posted February 16, 2019 Hi Marcos, Can only upload 3 photos at a time so heres another 3, all of the coast side with a load applied. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted February 16, 2019 Report Share Posted February 16, 2019 that looks fine too. shinest bit is just above center, on drive, its just below see hoo the pattern es shifted alot wid load,, quite alot shift pin deeper in, drive goes doon pin shallower, coast goes t,me that fine, as drive will lower it whenst ont car. if it runs quiet ok if it aint, try a 2-3 shim t,move cw away frae pin as on other post aboot 1,ish, i said same, still think it noo, ....even thou there seems t,be moer blue on inside of teeth, its wot showed up wid nee load, that telling me this, but patterns alot sharper wid load,no seeing the run off into tooth. can ye see what im on aboot here !!! but if ye aint moved owt frae earlier, then this why im saying move it 2 thou, an try agen its v v time consuming aint it, wee tip. elctric drill, a /9/16th socket in a holder speeds up bearing cups tek,n em on /off NOTE, if yer shift,n shims aboot, then all measurements and patterns MUST be done wid same pree loadings on side bearings, if its done wid less, , even if its same amout either side left oot,so it goes in /oot easier, it,ll show a diff pattern up, as CW will be shift,n aboot in the bearings, when ye add load t,it M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted February 16, 2019 Report Share Posted February 16, 2019 Another wee tip, see sec pic, see the small thrust bed, its wuff wuff , ridges init. whenst putt,n the side thrusts in, mek em as tight as ye can get, by this i mean actually really good hard tap,n em in wid a punch. they gotta be this tight, cos in a few miles { corners t,be moer accurate } the thrusts will be just right, as they will ev bedded into the grooves in carrier. mek em just a nice fit, so ye can turn halfshafts will result in them being slacker than a Laydee of the nights money mek,n bit, !!! M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cubehopper Posted February 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2019 When I first stripped the diff there was a lot of backlash in the spider gears causing clunking on take off.The thrusts were stamped 62 one side 64 the other side but only measured approx. 54thou, and the sun gear shims that should be 48thou measured 44thou.I couldn't at the time get any metal sun gear shims, Rimmers and Moss only had fibre ones so had to put the original ones back in, and put 66 thou thrust shims in.This resulted in the spider gears being quite tight but really notchy to turn. I`ve now managed to get some brass shims for the sun gears from Chris Wittor and have ordered some 64thou thrusts to see how that feels.When the spider gears are back together should they feel notchy to turn,feels as though they were not meshing properly. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 just efter there re shimmed, then ye should,nt be able t,turn em frae the half shaft end, will turn frae the pin end thou, they tight, an notchy, but will soon bed, tighter the better, they soon slacken off, honest. M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cubehopper Posted February 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 Rightio Marcus, I`ll put the spider gears back together with the 48thou brass sun gear shims and the 66 thou thrusts and see how that feels. Whilst the carriers out I`ll move a 2thou shim from the cwheel side to the other side to increase the backlash, It is quite tight at the moment at between 3.5 to 6 thou .It was approx. 10 thou when I first stripped the diff. cheers Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 (edited) Dave, If I were you I'd leave the backlash where it is, it will open out under use. From memory, in the article on the TR Technicalities CD, Pete Cox recommends using a backlash of 3 to 6 thou. Rgds Ian PS I'm totally with Marcus on the planetary gears. on my 3.7 axle I had to virtually force them in and they were very notchy (it was the only shims I had) but when I stripped it, they were as smooth as silk. Edited February 17, 2019 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cubehopper Posted February 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 Ian/Marcus Rebuilt spider gears today, tapped thrust shims in as they were that tight, and now needs socket and bar on each output shaft to turn the gears which are very notchy. Moved 2th shim from c/wheel side to other side and backlash has now increased from 3.5 -7 th to 5.5 - 9 th. took photo of increased backlash contact pattern with load on drive side, not sure what its telling me, whether its improved or not, needs a more experienced eye to interpret. 1st pic shows spider gears and thicker shims 2nd pic shows contact pattern on drive with increased backlash cheers Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 Dave, That contact pattern looks spot on to me. As a matter of interest, what actual changes have you made to the shimming (both to the pinion and the crown wheel bearings) since your original rebuild that howled? Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cubehopper Posted February 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 Ian, Only changes I have made since it howled is to increase the pinion pre load and to move a 2thou shim from c/wheel side to other side to increase the backlash and reshim the spider gears With c/wheel carrier bolted in place it now takes a strong 20 inch /lb to spin the pinion.Feels nice and smooth but it did before. I just hope now that, with the increased backlash, it doesn't clunk on take off as the backlash now is almost the same as when I first stripped the diff,and that was one of the reasons I did it ,but I think that was down to the worn spider gear shims. Maybe its now time to box it back up fill it with oil and try running it with my electric drill, but the diff only howled above 30mph, don't know if my drill goes that fast.! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 3.5 to 6 thou .It was approx. 10 thou when I first stripped the diff. says Dave, so what did ye shift, CW only, pin only, or byath!! Answer= ye say the increased backlash, it doesn't clunk on take off as the backlash now is almost the same as when I first stripped the diff So is this wid just CW shift, Pin shift,or both, Answer = Nee need t, put it all t,githa for running int drill, the oil will quieten the diff noises. run it as it is, as bit of oil int bearings, an meb,e a wee bit on Pin, as it,ll distribute along the CW teeth. if yer dril goes 3,000 rpms, then thats 60 ish + in direct top gear 1-1 ratio int box ...Pete Cox recommends using a backlash of 3 to 6 thou , this is good info, BUTT, but ev said it befoer, it all depends on what the diff needs, if its noisey at 4-6, an quiet at 12-14, then its gotta be the latter. the patterns , look t,me spot on, try it wid yer drill beofre fully assembling. re side thrusts, If its hard t,turn, then this is fine, it wont be efta a wee while. butt, lock side shafts, an turn frae pin end, it,ll be easier. { Wee tip, Half shafts bolts, a thin 1/4 drive ex bar will fit thru the wols int stub axle, this can then ev socket attached, and can then be tightened wid a T bar or ratchet, this way its faster than a spanner, ring spanna for last nip up only,!! } NOTE the edges oft teeth noo, they are dark all way up teeth, nee shiney edges as like on yer original pics, I did ask, but ye wer,nt s,sure aboot wot i was on aboot. look at 2 nd pic, see shiney bits on extreem edges, esp on yan near the yella spot ont case. re yella spot tooth, see ho the shiney bit is up the tooth, this me tinks is cos it just wer,nt sit,n in a worn in spot, thats a high point. and this,n, see the shiney edges, If it does wine a wee bit, its meb,e the best it can be got, if it howls, then it just shows hoo hard it is t,get a quiet diff, yer talking a few thou diff t,either mek it quiet, or noisey. Gud luk rgds M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cubehopper Posted February 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2019 Hi Marcus Reinstalled pinion with same size shim that was found when I first stripped the diff, I think it was 40thou standard size, the preload was then set and the pinion left at that . All adjustments since have been made on the c/wheel shims. I understand what you mean about the backlash, 4-6 thou is the ideal figure, but on a worn diff may be noisy, whilst an increased backlash may make it quieter, who knows. Now I`ve got the contact pattern about right I`ll squirt a bit of oil in it and give it a run with my drill. cheers Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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