Fit a Radiator / Sump Guard or not

[Adrian Fuller]

Hi

 

I am restoring a 1958 Triumph TR3A that is an import from Beverly Hills car club, I have already converted the car to right hand drive with some other minor mods/updates so it will never be “as built” and I have decided to complete some of the chassis strengthening suggestions (from the how to restore and how to improve your Triumph TR 2-3-4) and am now considering welding some Radiator/Sump guard mounting lugs onto the chassis before it goes for grit blasting and powder coating. I do not believe that I need a guard to protect the sump or radiator… it is more that I recognise that a suitable plate would prevent a significant amount road dirt/grime into the engine bay etc and additionally if in the future I were to part with the car these lugs will be available for a more sturdy guard if required,

 

My first issue is concern over cooling, would this plate/guard create cooling or other issues and is keeping an engine bay clean worth the introduction of these issues.  

 

Secondly, the radiator/sump guards I have seen for sale (Moss etc) appear to  finish on the front lip of the first chassis cross member (just where sump starts), my question is should I be looking to extend my plate beyond this and if so where is the optimal position as I obviously need to fit mounting lugs for the length of the guard.

 

Thirdly my understanding is that I should fit the mounting lugs(with captive nuts) on the lower part of the outer edge of the chassis is this correct?

 

Now I have access to the site I will upload a couple of work in progress photos onto site.

 

Many thanks for any suggestions/feedback

 

Adrian Fuller

[Motorsport Mickey]

Hi Adrian,

Welcome as you make your first post, a lovely colour on your car.

The works sump guards as you say just finish short of the engine which allows a great deal of radiator and engine heat to be extracted, if you make it longer the engine compartment heat will increase greatly which may need some ventilation vents or slot being added afterwards. If you do go for a full engine compartment sump guard under the engine do it in two pieces attaching to the front sump guard to allow access for servicing and also removal if you need to increase cooling slots or even totally remove if needed. Lugs to the outside of the chassis would be my choice.

Mick Richards 

[iain]

Here are the original sump guard fitting instructions

 

Sump Shield Fitting Instructions.docx

[ianc]

My TR4, 4VC (one of the four original Works' Rally cars), has its skid shield welded to the chassis and is so strong that I am able to lift the front of the car with a trolley jack placed in the middle.  In addition, it provides anchorage for the mountings of an anti-roll bar (a Revington special) and a towing eye bolt.  I have a few small holes drilled into the underside of the shield so that any rainwater or coolant can escape.

I've attached a 1962 shot, sent me by David Somerville, of the shield being fitted to 5VC (now Tony Sheach's car).  This shield seems to be bolted in place, but who knows whether bolting or welding was used on each of the cars - it might have been decided by the individual mechanic who prepared the car.  I can say that this, along with the Surrey top with fixed (alloy) lid and the other strengthening applied to the chassis of each of the Works' TR4s, makes the car much stiffer - a fact on which Dan at Revington TR remarked when I took him on a test run 18 months ago after he and Carl had tuned my car.

Ian Cornish

Edited February 14, 2019 by ianc

[Hamish]

Adrian

i have the moss one fitted to my car. Very similar to the original drawing Iain posted. 

I primarily fitted it as a means to fit a bigger anti roll bar - the original anti roll bar being fitted to the bumper irons - now removed. 

It is fixed on th inner edge of the chassis lips on the 3 sides infront  of first cross member under the radiator. There are 3 metal strips with captive nuts that sit on the top of the chassis lips these chassis lips need drilling to line up with the nuts strips and guard. Iain’s instructions suggest that the nut strips are tack welded in place. As mycar was stripped I didn’t have a welder  to weld them so I used the biggest rivets my gun would handle. They are only there to hold thenut strips in place as you can’t get to them when mounting the plate and bolting it up. 

I added 2 extra drain holes on the back edge of the guard.

It’s all very sturdy. 

One observation on my car is that the front edge of the guard sits a little low and not behind the font valance. A visual rather than performance thing 

not the best pic. Taken when I replaced the radiator. But gives you an idea. 

[Tony_C]

Hello Adrian,

 

Very warm welcome, you have chosen - by far - the best example of the best model of the best marque of sports car, so well done thus far!

 

Although, many of the experts have already spoken...You are absolutely correct: You do not need a sump guard to protect the radiator and sump (in anything but the most extreme driving circumstances)... If the ‘angle-iron’ is still bolted on under your radiator, I would suggest leaving well alone (cooling is marginal at best once they get old) and spend any spare cash on getting rid of the white-wall tyres and repairing the rust spots in front wing.. If you really care about the grime, then lean in once in a while and give it a wipe around. - Only in my opinion and all the best to enjoy to the maximum - these cars were so well build from original, for ‘nprmal’ Use = leave well alone