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hi everyone 

I have bought some inside door handles from rimmer 

let say I am not impressed don't think they will last long 

before I spend nearly 200 pounds with moss please give your opinion on what to do

thanks

paul

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Presumably your talking about the door capping come door pull if so buy them from TR Shop as they are as close as you`ll get to original

Stuart.

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Once fitted best not to use them for opening/closing the doors otherwise they probably will not last long.I`ve never even got them to stick that well.

Fit some 4/4A interior door handles and use them instead , a far better idea.

Dave

 

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1 hour ago, cubehopper said:

Once fitted best not to use them for opening/closing the doors otherwise they probably will not last long.I`ve never even got them to stick that well.

Fit some 4/4A interior door handles and use them instead , a far better idea.

Dave

 

They do need careful fitting and the use of the right glue which is this https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1263/heat-resistant-adhesive

Stuart.

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I found that when trying to fit the door cappings the internal shape did not match the door so the glue area was much reduced plus their strength was poor, so eventually gave up. I have looked at fitting TR4/4A chrome door pulls. Any advise on the best source and where/how to fit them?

Mick 

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3 minutes ago, Mick Forey said:

I found that when trying to fit the door cappings the internal shape did not match the door so the glue area was much reduced plus their strength was poor, so eventually gave up. I have looked at fitting TR4/4A chrome door pulls. Any advise on the best source and where/how to fit them?

Mick 

Hi Mick,

              there was a post the other day showing to very different TR6 door pulls - one from Rimmer and one from elsewhere (could be TRShop).  The Rimmer was a mile out.

Moss do reasonable chrome door pulls. Your problem is the little square anchor nut in the door - not available any more.

 

Roger 

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This is such a common complaint on repro parts for our cars. I cannot understand why it is not possible for a manufacturer to copy the dimensions of an original item to sufficient accuracy. It should be as easy to make a part to the right dimension as wrong, or is this just too simplistic.

Tim

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Tim, the issue is that a very similar, but wrong part, is often already made for some other car so that is what is offered to us at an attractive price. We buy them and don't complain enough, so they keep being supplied. I guess, in some ways, we are our own worst enemy.

Roger, a part not available? Is this a job for International Rescue, sorry SDF? I can't imagine the demand is high so probably not. Is there a bodge solution that works?

Mick

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8 minutes ago, tim hunt said:

This is such a common complaint on repro parts for our cars. I cannot understand why it is not possible for a manufacturer to copy the dimensions of an original item to sufficient accuracy. It should be as easy to make a part to the right dimension as wrong, or is this just too simplistic.

Tim

Some of these dimensionally challenged items are not always to blame.  Sadly our cars are not always what they appear.

Machined parts (engine, clutch etc) stand a chance of being reproducible one after the other. But, panels and attachments suffer because what they fit to may be not that accurate.

Possibly using a dodgy 'master' as a template or simply the tooling wears out or changes through production.

The above is not an excuse as any errors should be picked up be the QC system - and there lies the problem; there is no QC system.

 

Roger

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3 minutes ago, Mick Forey said:

Tim, the issue is that a very similar, but wrong part, is often already made for some other car so that is what is offered to us at an attractive price. We buy them and don't complain enough, so they keep being supplied. I guess, in some ways, we are our own worst enemy.

Roger, a part not available? Is this a job for International Rescue, sorry SDF? I can't imagine the demand is high so probably not. Is there a bodge solution that works?

Mick

Hi Mick,

             the spire nut is not available as mentioned above.

   items 146 & 147      https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/body-chassis/doors-fittings/doors-fittings-tr4-4a.html

There are various'work arounds'.  I used M4 Rivnuts. These just fit into the square hole and hold very well.

You can try to retap the M4 Rivnut to  8/32 UNF(I think) or simply fit an M4 screw.

 

Roger

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Roger, thanks for the info. I presume the pressing still has the relevant square hole cut out in a TR6 CR door. Been a while since I looked closely at the door with the door card off.

Mick

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In short yes, but the really nice ones ( in my opinion ) are the ones veneered onto a fibreglass/carbon fibre backing which is moulded to the top of the door and fitted with 3 very thin screws. Because they are slim, they do not have a built in door pull - I have seen wooden ones which incorporate a pull moulding but they are very chunky and to my mind don't look right.

The former ones are available on their own or as part of a set with a matching veneered dashboard, or alternatively you can have a "piano black" version which also look very nice

The above are available from Classical Dash who I believe supply most of the TR suppliers - if you are interested, PM me as I will be able to help you if you want to explore this option further

Cheers

Rich

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Paul, my car is also a 73CR and when I fitted the inside handles I am fairly sure that the holes were already in place.

It was  a long time ago but I seem to remember just buying some caged nuts like these and matching screws,dont remember many problems.

Even if the holes are not there, not too much of a job to make some.

These nuts are available from RS COMPONENTS and are called cage nuts.

cage nut.jpg

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The TR4 option seem to be the best in my view, not sure why they changed it for the TR6, could be to do with cost, or more likely to do with that it “looks more modern” with the capping that also hide the painted metal on the top of the door. Anyway the TR4 handles does not only look much better but they work better as well, and is more in keeping with the vintage feel of the car.

Can understand that owners want to keep the original look, but for everyone else I guess the combination of appearance and practicality of the TR4 handles is unmatched. I fitted the TR4 handles on my TR6 and have never regretted it.

 

Magnus

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On both door pull features:

1. The square holes in the door where the captive nuts were formerly placed do not match exactly the spacing on the original TR4 handles. So a nut with a square boss fitting therein will not align with the handle's screw holes. On my '250s I soldered nuts to a strip of heavy gauge steel using the handle as jig. These were clamped behind the inner door skin, through drilled between the nuts and pop riveted into place. The threads of the nuts were at the outside edges of the square holes, not in the center.

2. TRF supplied padded door top / pulls last indefinitely, at least 20 years without cracking in my experience. Moreover, they are indistinguishable from original in appearance. Fitting them for the long haul means gluing the entire contact surface and wrapping the vinyl extension all the way round the bottom edge of the door skin. The draught excluder clips give added security against loosening, ever. I never use mine to close the door, but always appreciate the comfort they provide for my elbow and forearm, likely their original purpose on the 4A.

 

Cheers,

Tom  

Shadow Blue seats.JPG

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46 minutes ago, Tom Fremont said:

1. The square holes in the door where the captive nuts were formerly placed do not match exactly the spacing on the original TR4 handles.

I recall now that this is true.  I had to shift one of the hole centers slightly before installing the Rivnuts.

Ed

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I'm in the process of renovating the interior of my CP and purchased the vinyl backed foam  door pulls (£160) from Rimmer's and found the profile is way out. Rimmer's agreed they do not fit and refunded  my money. Spoke to TR Shop, they can order the correct vinyl/foam door pulls from the USA and assured  they would fit approx  £180.

I decided to copy one of the USA guys and cover the door cap with foam and vinyl myself,  I used 3/8" sticky back foam trimmed the edges and  then cover in a vinyl the same as the on the door card, this gives a good quality feel.  I purchased chrome doors pulls, bolts and cage nuts from TR Shop,  I have had to opened the hole slightly for the nuts, I did contemplate rivet nuts but cage nuts give a little play, I'm still faffing with the clips on the back of the door card at the mo.

Best Regards Phil

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