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I have bought second hand but not used a set of the bastuck adjustable top fulcrum kit

would any of you have the English instructions. 

Same / similar to Revington kit I think.

Google translate has helped but I could do with and English copy. 

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98FCB065-B6D2-4B8D-A469-DA9D738B4EF3.jpeg

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It looks to be the same as the Revington kit, basically fit it, adjust to required camber then weld it up. Im not overly keen on this kit but I know a few on here have fitted it. If you can find it I expect there is a set of instructions on Revingtons site somewhere though its a difficult one to navigate round.

Stuart.

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Stuart i thought the same....cunningly they are not there! 

Out of interest and with no intention of ever using why don’t you like this kit?

Cheers 

Iain

 

 

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FI018 ADJUSTABLE TOP FULCRUM KIT TR2-6.pdf

There yer go.

It's very fiddly to set up, lots of assembly, measure camber, dissasembly, adjust, assembly etc. Also due to not having captive nuts on the inner two locations in theory you need to remove the spring every time. I did manage to get a 3/8" socket + two extensions up the back behind the spring, but it was a right fiddle.  probably much easier to shorten the upper wishbones, or fit the Racetorations version.

I combined this with fitting late TR4 trunnions, & TR4A-6 upper wishbones, & swivel joint to give 3° castor, & also the Revingtons steering arms to improve ackerman angle.

Having said that now it's on it works very well.

Bob.

P.S.   mine came from the TR shop, & was described as being for TR2 - 4  in fact the bolt lengths were for a 4, & not correct for a 3 (too short)

Edited by Lebro
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2 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Brilliant Bob. Thank you. 

I searched theirs and other sites to no avail. 

Search king BOB. :D

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4 minutes ago, Hamish said:

Brilliant Bob. Thank you. 

I searched theirs and other sites to no avail. 

Search king BOB. :D

Did not search, Revingtons kindly sent it to me when I was having problems fitting the Bastuk one ! (but don't tell anyone)

Bob.

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6 minutes ago, Drewmotty said:

Like Start I don’t like the design of the adjustable kit so I made a set of solid blocks to move the original fulcrum up 12mm and inboard 9mm

40FFFDC0-E81F-4223-A804-9A8EC15F4B48.jpeg

Given that the likes of Revington supply similar kits and with competition use in mind. That is my intended use as well. 

Can those with concerns share them. I would like to learn and understand the pros and cons. No wish to start any agro just learn Before fitting and use. 

Mine (if fitted) is on a 3a  what do your blocks  fit ? And what is the resulting geometry ? It looks like a neat, simple  solution  

H

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1 hour ago, Hamish said:

Given that the likes of Revington supply similar kits and with competition use in mind. That is my intended use as well. 

Can those with concerns share them. I would like to learn and understand the pros and cons. No wish to start any agro just learn Before fitting and use. 

Mine (if fitted) is on a 3a  what do your blocks  fit ? And what is the resulting geometry ? It looks like a neat, simple  solution  

H

Revington/Bastick/Moss kit is adjustable allowing the camber to be set exactly to requirements regardless of the original geometry of the chassis and doesn’t require any personal poring over a CAD screen or drilling, tapping, sawing or filing in the workshop.

But....

The overly long mounting bolts are unsupported for most of their length and the fulcrum pin is notched to clear the bolts  

The top wishbones are set further apart than standard to allow for spacers each side of the top ball joint  This makes clearance around the fulcrum problematic and isn’t required if the original geometry is correct  

They cost quite a bit, they could do with a screw adjuster and they’re ugly.

Blocks like mine only provide a minimum negative camber around minus 1 degree but can then be fine tuned by adjusting the top ball joint mounting holes in the wishbones. 

Bigger adjustments need a set of slightly different offset blocks making up. 

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5 minutes ago, Drewmotty said:

Revington/Bastick/Moss kit is adjustable allowing the camber to be set exactly to requirements regardless of the original geometry of the chassis and doesn’t require any personal poring over a CAD screen or drilling, tapping, sawing or filing in the workshop.

But....

The overly long mounting bolts are unsupported for most of their length and the fulcrum pin is notched to clear the bolts  

The top wishbones are set further apart than standard to allow for spacers each side of the top ball joint  This makes clearance around the fulcrum problematic and isn’t required if the original geometry is correct  

They cost quite a bit, they could do with a screw adjuster and they’re ugly.

Blocks like mine only provide a minimum negative camber around minus 1 degree but can then be fine tuned by adjusting the top ball joint mounting holes in the wishbones. 

Bigger adjustments need a set of slightly different offset blocks making up. 

Thank you :D

 

it does look like a fiddly pain to set up. 

I may try my old school shorter top wishbones first. ????

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Shorter top wishbones will certainly provide the required negative camber but don’t address the problem of the virtual roll centre being too low and will also compromise the camber gain. 

In real terms I don’t think that on our relatively narrow tyres that amature enthusiast drivers like the majority of us will notice any difference. We would probably be better off spending our money on track instruction and rolling road setup both of which will certainly make us faster. :-)

Edited by Drewmotty
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5 minutes ago, Drewmotty said:

Shorter top wishbones will certainly provide the required negative camber but don’t address the problem of the virtual roll centre being too low and will also compromise the camber gain. 

That is certainly part of the argument that Revington’s use in not to cut and shut.

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2 hours ago, Drewmotty said:

Well spotted Z320. 

The offset is 14mm but the fulcrum is fitted reversed to reduce the offset by 5mm. The centre bar of the fulcrum then just misses the damper top mount by about 1mm. 

Hi,

great idea, I don't like welding on this parts.

In 2013 I made a sketch of the falcrum pin for the german TR forum to illustrate its offset.

I determined it about 2,25 mm, but it could be 2,50 mm.

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Ciao / Cheers, Marco

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TBH I didnt like it for a variety of the above answers, I would if going down that route use the Racetorations setup every time.

http://www.racetorations.co.uk/triumph-c56/tr2-c3/tr2-chassis-suspension-and-steering-c76/racetorations-upper-wishbones-adjustable-p425

Stuart.

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Hamish,

it probably depends on how you are going to use the car. I fitted The Revington kit and found it pretty straightforward to follow their instruction sheet. And the kit itself was a reasonable price. 

Thr trickiest part for me was tack welding the top plates so that I could remove them and weld them up properly. 

Rgds Ian

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