anotheralan Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 I see there has been a bit of chat about this product this month. I bought one direct from bastuck last July and, now Xmas is out of the way, I have got around to fitting. I am hoping somebody has fitted one recently and can throw some light on my problem. So this is probably only of interest to somebody who has fitted one. I have queried with Bastuck the connection of the wires that emerge from the column, as their instructions say to push the wires into the ducts in the lower collar so that they touch the brass ring follower. Not a very 'positive' connection. There are grub screws that clamp each the wire's insulation to stop it falling out of the duct, but even so. I await a reply. It is going ok except that the brass rings have to be removed from the inner collar to facilitate soldering a wire on the inside of each ring. The rings are such a tight fit that they will not budge an angstrom. Tried immersion in boiling water but made no difference. Perhaps I will try the freezer next. I have no ideas of the expansion properties of the hard plastic of the body. Again, I have queried with Bastuck. Any tips appreciated. Thanks Alan Bastuck instructions indicator-horn controls.pdf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted January 29, 2019 Report Share Posted January 29, 2019 I agree with your comment about the connections as recommended by Bastuck not being the best. I stripped the insulation from the end of wires for a few mm and pushed them in until they protrude slightly into the hole for the spring contact, then the process of screwing the spring contact top screw into the hole forces it into a decent contact with the wire. It’s worked thus far. Can’t help with the other problem I’m afraid. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mick Forey Posted January 29, 2019 Report Share Posted January 29, 2019 My TR3 had one of the slip ring units fitted when I bought the car. However, due to my not understanding its construction I messed it up when I stripped the rack and steering column out to strip the engine front end in situe. Therefore, I bought and fitted a replacement unit. It works really well but there are a few issues: I soldered and assembled the rings no problem, they were not that tight a fit, just snug. I had to file down excessive solder to get it to fit. I hope Bastuck sort this issue out for you with either some good advise or a new unit. I also stripped the wires back, splayed them out and screwed in the brass screw holding the brush and spring. The electrical connection is made but be careful not to over tighten the screw. One of these screws came loose some two years and 12,000 miles later manifesting in an intermittent connection, but it was quickly diagnosed and sorted. I caught it before any bits fell out. I have also had the outer slip ring unit start to turn with the inner when it moved axially into the wrong position and started to jam. This was fixed by adjustment of the column in the coupling to reduce the end float down to more reasonable amount, it was excessive (2-3mm) now 1-2 mm. Mick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
anotheralan Posted January 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 Thanks to you both. After managing to insert a very thin and sharp kitchen blade between the ring and spacer I managed to get some movement. Followed up with a variety of tools of increasing thickness until I got the first ring off. The other rings presented the further problem of having to travel much farther, so prising in this way was not going to work. I made two 2mm thick plastic plates (from spacers for fitting double glazing units) with a cutout in one side to roughly match the diameter of the plastic body carrying the rings. Prised the next ring far enough (>2mm) to insert a plate on each side beneath the ring, and suspended the stator by the ring/plates across the jaws of my vice. This allowed me to hammer out the stator from the ring. And so to the next ring etc. From conversations with Bastuck they are happy with their connection instructions and are not concerned that the brass sleeves are live when the horn or indicator are used. To quote: "The cables are isolated enough inside. You are right, they remain outside according to Figure but they are enough isolated till contact." Apparently there are degrees of isolation in Germany and isolation is not essential when the part is live!? I have decided I will wrap insulation tape around the unit across the brass screws which will also stop them vibrating loose. I have also made another mod to the part to satisfy my craving for a more positive connection at these screws. (Alan is clearly an anagram) I have used a 'junior hacksaw' to cut a slot across the thread where the cable emerges from the duct. With the bare end of the cable turned down into the slot, which is deep enough for the thread not to cut the bare end off, the brass threaded sleeve engages contact with the bare end in a more positive manner, I hope. Looked ok in my bench trials. Thanks again, I can see my way home now - an uncommon experience in a TR3 at night but better for longer since the alternator conversion. Nice car Mick, looks almost the right colour paintwork Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted January 30, 2019 Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 I'm going to show my complete ignorance here but surely these could/should be supplied with the a short loom attached? not expect the purchaser to strip the thing down, solder wires on and reassemble......... I'll go and get my coat and stand here in anticipation................ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted January 30, 2019 Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 Not really possible to supply them with a short loom attached. The wires have to be fed down through the upper steering column before being connected to the Bastuck unit and there isn't much room for connectors. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
anotheralan Posted January 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 On 8/14/2018 at 9:43 PM, fezzsarecool said: hi alan , sorry not got back been rather busy, mike ellis loaned me a cover , have a local sail maker to sew it together , thank you for replying to my request , what makes being in a car club helpful when we have problems, yours john saunders Quote Link to post Share on other sites
anotheralan Posted January 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 ok Quote Link to post Share on other sites
anotheralan Posted February 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2019 Nigel I would say it could be made 'plug and play', even retaining the existing loom down the column, but there would no doubt be a premium cost. i am still struggling with the interference fit of the rings getting them back together having soldered the first one.. I really need a 40mm tibe that is loose on the body to push them back on. looks like a lot of emery and sweat to ease the rings out to a larger i.d. Tomorrows problem. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
anotheralan Posted February 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2019 For those that are interested and those thinking of fitting one of these I have written some english instructions based on Bastuck german instructions and my experience. Attached here with the german version that includes the photos referred to. I was pleased to find the job could be done without removing the upper casing tube. Alan Bastuck translation - instructions indicator-horn controls.docx Bastuck instructions indicator-horn controls.pdf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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