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Options to locate OD light and fan override switch


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Any suggestions for locating an OD-engaged indication light and a fan over-ride switch.  I have the following style devices )there may be better)IMG_2902.JPG.d3fd9816963d6fe844df930d0b714c7c.JPG

One option is to re-purpose the ash tray but not sure if that is a good idea, or exactly how to go about doing that.

Another is to fabricate a new bracket to fit next to the H -support, but that could interfere with the old knees..

IMG_2903.JPG.ca9c5f5f070b8c54263594cac201ef29.JPGIMG_2905.JPG.ce8c9d4cf3cef89ef183af3a8b7f56dc.JPG

I assume many members have undertaken similar exercises - all suggestions welcome

 

Cheers

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A sharp metal edge above a leg would not be my choice. At least bend a deeper front backwards  to create a lower surface against the leg, then double  the rearmost edge over against itself to form a smooth rear edge, to eliminate a cutting edge.

Alan

 

 

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Very clever option for the light Roger, brilliant idea! I will check for clearances inside the cowl to see if the LED I have will be OK,  Did you connect to the relay or ....?

Alan, yes that is the plan for the switch including vinyl wrap, but only going this far until other idea surface or the grey matter wakes up (also pondered option of a switch on the headlight stalk)

Cheers,

 

Alf

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Hi Alf,

             there is room in the cowl for the LED + socket and dropper resistor. 

One LED leg goes to earth the other leg then goes to the resistor and then to C2 on the OD relay.

I also added a dimmer to the LED so when the lights come on (it's dark outside) the LED dims to about half power (little relay and resistor_

When driving one can see the LED if you look down at the horn button - but there is also a slight glow on the underside of the steering wheel rim (12-o-clock position) when looking straight ahead.  I use a blue LED.

Roger

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Roger, you set-up is quite fancy. Isn't the dropper resistor intended to reduce the LED intensity? but you then add a further resistor for additional reduction at night?

Mallaby, I agree on the toggle aspect. This version just provides for the included light indication.  I'm still playing with switch options and location.

Cheers,

Alf

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5 minutes ago, silverfox4 said:

Roger, you set-up is quite fancy. Isn't the dropper resistor intended to reduce the LED intensity? but you then add a further resistor for additional reduction at night?

 

Alf

Hi Alf,

        most LED's run  off apprx 2V, so one resisitor is required to drop 10V whilst allowing apprx 0.020milliamps to flow. This will give a bright day light glow.

For night time running the LED needs dimming. So with the use of a small relay another resistor is switched into series with the first

So for example you have 2700 ohms for day light operation and 6800 ohms for night time.

I can show a simple circuit if you wish

 

Roger

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I have a small light to the right of the column on the dash on my 4a (where the rheostat is on a 4) its light controlled so dims when the headlamps are on, by sheer coincidence the position is such that by refraction it also shows up in the door mirror too so always on view.

Stuart.

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28 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi Alf,

        most LED's run  off apprx 2V, so one resisitor is required to drop 10V whilst allowing apprx

0.020 milli amps   !

to flow.

 

Roger

 

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Thanks Guys, I really have to get my head around the use of LED's  (I aleady had the problems with the dash lights).

A diagram would be appreciated thanks Roger.

Stuart, did you have to drill a new opening in the 4A dash to do the light? I assume the 4's dash rheostat location is  different from the 4A then.

Cheers,

Alf

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8 hours ago, silverfox4 said:

Thanks Guys, I really have to get my head around the use of LED's  (I aleady had the problems with the dash lights).

A diagram would be appreciated thanks Roger.

Stuart, did you have to drill a new opening in the 4A dash to do the light? I assume the 4's dash rheostat location is  different from the 4A then.

Cheers,

Alf

I drilled through the wood dash but the steel backing dash already has the hole left over from the TR4

Stuart.

 

 

photo0938.jpg

Edited by stuart
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I use a period chrome finish switch plinth on the drivers side, to centre which contains,           Fan override switch, Fan warning light and Wiper sprung toggle switch for single wipe. 

Roger, as always your capacity to invent never ceases  to impress. 

Chris 

 

 

IMG_6252.jpg

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Thanks all, extremely useful input - I now have more definitive options  to work with - must be some small relay that Roger.  Will check the "bits" boxes for more appropriate lights and switches and dash out to check for holes in the steel dash.

Much appreciated as always,

Cheers

 

Alf

 

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As, in common with many drivers of moderns, I am inclined to drive on dipped headlights in the daytime, I find that a reduced intensity "overdrive on" light becomes near invisible in sunlight.  I have not yet devised a system to energise this lamp under 3 possible conditions:

- night driving (headlights in use, of course!)

- daytime driving with dipped headlights

- daytime driving without headlights.

I have a spare 3-position switch, but finding a space within arm's reach on 4VC is very difficult as the mechanics at the Works used all the usual gaps and, many years ago, I added: Kenlowe switch/indicator, cigar lighter socket, hazard indicator and the "overdrive on" indicator.

Ian Cornish

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30 minutes ago, silverfox4 said:

- must be some small relay that Roger. 

Cheers

 

Alf

 

Hi Alf,

          the relay is not under the cowl on the steering column. It sits in the spaghetti behind the dash so can be any size.

 

Hi Ian,

           I also drive with dipped headlights during the day.

My LED points upwards and the main element of light that I see is from the underside of the steering wheel at 12-o-clock position

So the move to nigt time driving does not prove a major problem

For your situation you need a photoresistor/trasistor etc sensing the ambient light level  rather than the cars lights.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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One for Roger and Bob given my ignorance of electrickery and because a similar project is on the list for my 3A.

If LEDs are 'plug and play' on all external lights (I presently have Bob's excellent rear LEDs and commercial cunning white / orange ones in my sidelights) and panel lights, why all this talk of 'resistors'? 

And ignoring the dimmer option, what would I actually ask for from whatever serves as the replacement for Maplin?

Thanks as ever.

 

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Hi Miles,

           to make the simple LED work you need to supply it with apprx 2V. This will make it work and it will draw its own current.

If you put more Volts in say 4 volts then it wil try to take more current and go 'pop'

So you put a resistor in series to drop the excess volts and the LED becomes happy.  You can increase the resistance and this will reduce the current and so the LED gets dimmer.

On the purpose built lamps that use LED's there may be a built in series resistor or on the better stuff a voltage regulator or similar. These will run off a higher voltage r range pf voltage.

 

So if you were going to install an LED to indicate your OD position then you have two options -

Get an LED and a resistor.  For a 12V system you need to drop 10V.

Using Freds law of approximation   V=Ir.       10 = 0,020A x R  = 500.   I would start with a 1000 Ohm resistor and work around that. 

If you get a Hi-Brightness LED the 1000R will be be bright

Or you could get a 12V LED and see what happens.  

 

Roger

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Well - almost correct :P Not all LED's drop 2V, for example the red LEDs I use in my rear lamp bulbs drop 2.4V, & white LEDs of the same type drop nearer 3V. The LED data sheet will state the typical voltage drop at various currents. What is required is to set a suitable current for the LED in question. As Roger says start with a fairly high resistance, & if possible measure the current, gradually drop the resistance to get the brightness you want, but never exceed the max continuose current rating of the LED in question.  For a small LED like in Rogers example 2.2V would be fairly a typical drop for a red LED. 

Bob.  :ph34r:

A selection here. the last one will not need a resistor other than for dimming it down.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5mm-LED-green-blue-white-yellow-red-Diffused-High-Brightness-Diode-10-100-pcs-UK/352202353622?hash=item5200e56bd6:m:mdsi3NEVW5-fc3bxNdW2DMg:rk:30:pf:0&var=621692429875

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Standard-5mm-LED-Red-Diode-1-100-pcs-UK/264112329407?hash=item3d7e5252bf:m:mMfvSZ23XqbN19iAOXToQyw:rk:5:pf:0&var=563670600527

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC12V-5mm-LED-Bulb-Pre-wired-Light-Emitting-Diodes-Small-20cm-Wire-for-Hobbyists/122137301280?hash=item1c6ff35120:g:KBgAAOSwyjBW7CNp:rk:12:pf:0&var=422091872863

 

Edited by Lebro
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