ChrisR-4A Posted March 12, 2019 Report Share Posted March 12, 2019 HiJohn, were the shocks supplied by a TR dealer as specified for TR fitment? I mention this although it mainly happens when fitted to rear of car but if stroke of shock is too short it can bottom out before the spring has compressed as designed to giving a premature harsh bump stop. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted March 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 (edited) 11 hours ago, ChrisR-4A said: HiJohn, were the shocks supplied by a TR dealer as specified for TR fitment? I mention this although it mainly happens when fitted to rear of car but if stroke of shock is too short it can bottom out before the spring has compressed as designed to giving a premature harsh bump stop. Chris Thanks Chris. They are Spax adjustables for a TR6 from The Roadster Factory. A thorough inspection of the right hand side and it had one small hairline crack now repaired. The LH side had/has a few cracks. Edited March 13, 2019 by John McCormack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted March 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 Ok brains trust, I have driven the car a few times and have done some tight manoeuvring. The clunk has occurred a few times, again with full or near full right lock at walking/parking pace. The thought was the cracks in the pillar were allowing movement and causing the noise. I covered the cracks with JBWeld which isn't flexible so would crack or break up with any movement. The JBWeld has not moved nor cracked. The pillar is not moving. I cannot detect any play in the top ball joint and only a little bit in the steering. The MOT man says it is all in good condition. Has anybody else experienced a steering/suspension clunk when turning hard at walking pace? If known, what was the cause? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 (edited) I haven't a TR6 but does it have the steering lock collar restrictors to prevent excess lock, these are set separately each side, could one have moved ?and does it have the front lower wishbone bracket reinforcement on the inner chassis edge to prevent it breaking away. Mick Richards Edit: Just did a check on the search box (excellent facility, everyone should use it) and found this thread about the lower wishbone mount) https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/67392-fitting-lower-wishbone-bracket-strengtheners/&tab=comments#comment-600174 Part numbers 15 and 16 it has a range quoted of TR2 to 4a so it may be the TR6 had it done at the factory but I'd be checking that area for it's efficacy. Edited March 14, 2019 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 Did you check the left hand side bearing in the rack as I mentioned on page 1 of this topic? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 My car “jumps” when in full steer with low speed. I contribute that to my tires, they are old and hard, and steering geometry is not at best at this position. It did it before I dismantled the car, and still does it after the major rebuild. I can feel this in my steering wheel. Hope (expect) this will get better once the new tyres are installed. is yours similar? Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill944T Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 This may be completely irrelevant but I had similar on a Transit van and it ended up by being a simple matter that the spring had broken at the very top but still contained in the "cup holder" so difficult to reveal unless completely dismantled....... If I haven't explained very well, it was just a fracture at the last 4" of spring length. Regards Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted March 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 15 hours ago, stuart said: Did you check the left hand side bearing in the rack as I mentioned on page 1 of this topic? Stuart. Yes, I checked it and couldn't detect any play. The bushes were replaced just before I bought the car, I insisted the previous owner get it done, and they were ok then as well. I will check for play again. Is there anything else I should look for? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted March 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 6 hours ago, Bill944T said: This may be completely irrelevant but I had similar on a Transit van and it ended up by being a simple matter that the spring had broken at the very top but still contained in the "cup holder" so difficult to reveal unless completely dismantled....... If I haven't explained very well, it was just a fracture at the last 4" of spring length. Regards Bill Thanks Bill. I had the springs out to install the shocks about a year ago. (the spacer was in the bottom instead of the top so the shocks wouldn't fit) They were ok then although this noise started after that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted March 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 7 hours ago, Waldi said: My car “jumps” when in full steer with low speed. I contribute that to my tires, they are old and hard, and steering geometry is not at best at this position. It did it before I dismantled the car, and still does it after the major rebuild. I can feel this in my steering wheel. Hope (expect) this will get better once the new tyres are installed. is yours similar? Waldi This could be an issue. The steering geometry is terrible at full right lock with tyre scrubbing occurring. But I wouldn't expect that to cause the clunk I get. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted March 15, 2019 Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 Hi John, ”good” to hear you have the same sympthom; if the clonk does not occur when you hear the rubbing of the tires, it is likely not related. Maybe you can visit a garage where they have these pneumtic driven boards/plates; you place the frontwheels on them and then move the plates, it will show any clearance in your suspension or frame-crack. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted March 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 On 3/14/2019 at 8:11 PM, stuart said: Did you check the left hand side bearing in the rack as I mentioned on page 1 of this topic? Stuart. Yep, no appreciable play. It had new poly bushes installed in the rack and the bearing just before I bought it and it was all ok then. I just got back from a 50km drive over the Sydney Harbour Bridge to our previous house north of Sydney and back over the Gladesville Bridge (a fun drive!). I didn't get near full lock at parking speeds but did take a few tightish right hand corners at speed. There were no clunks and the JB Weld hasn't moved or cracked. I am confident there is no movement in the pillar nor is there a major problem with the steering or suspension. I do think the steering lock on right hand turns needs adjusting, it turns so tight at full lock the front tyres move sideways on the pavement. It doesn't do this on left hand turns. The clunk might be from a little play on that LHS bearing but as the play is within tolerance I suspect the steering lock is the issue. I'll get these two cracks welded up soon but the car is OK, and going superbly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted April 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2019 The repair completed today. There doesn't appear to any particular reason for the cracking to occur. The shocks are fine, everything appears normal. Old age maybe. The TR6 is driving superbly, it is a class act that would have been magic in 1970. They were too expensive for me back then. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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