Guest Posted January 25, 2019 Report Share Posted January 25, 2019 Hi all! Currently in process of restoring my '71 TR6 - I have welded strengthening arms across the door apertures and I have the body removed from chassis. Whilst it seems to make sense to have the body re painted whilst off the chassis, I foresee issues transported the tub...and also i would need to remove the door strengthening arms in order to fit the doors. Is it better to refit body to chassis for painting? Any ideas will be welcomed! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 25, 2019 Report Share Posted January 25, 2019 Provided the shell has all been repaired correctly, i.e. New floors/sills inner and outer then it will be strong enough not to have to worry about the strengtheners. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted January 25, 2019 Report Share Posted January 25, 2019 Many thanks Stuart....you obviously know your subject! Car was very rusty (been off the road for 30+ years) I have had the inn/out sills, floors, inner wings etc replaced...Guess I need to start building a trolley. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted January 25, 2019 Report Share Posted January 25, 2019 I shipped my body after all welding was completed to a grit blasted. No doors, bonnets etc, everything bolted to it was removed. I left the braces in the door apertures in. It came back in Epoxy primer and no more welding was required, luckily. I then sanded it to 400 (visible area’s to 600 grid) and sealed all the seams. This was at least 1W of work. I then transported the body to a paint shop who painted it in the final coat, but some area’s will be sanded/prepped again to be sprayed with the panels bolted on. I then joined it with the chassis. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keith66 Posted January 25, 2019 Report Share Posted January 25, 2019 Hi Ers I had the underneath of my and panelless shell painted off chassis and had similar concerns about transport. Although Stuart is correct in that if floors and sill all repaired ok the strength should be enough i took a belt and braces approach and made some bolt on strengthening support struts out of some old industrial shelf support angle iron, as pic. I thought the adavantage over welding them in place was the ease of removal and reattachment as needed. Maybe overkill, but didn't take long to knock up and weld together. Cheers Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rogcastle Posted January 26, 2019 Report Share Posted January 26, 2019 Hi Keith I like the idea of being able bolt them on and they look like they fit well. I will copy it when I eventually take the body off my 6 which I suspect I will need to do sooner than later, because of a rusty chassis. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keith66 Posted January 27, 2019 Report Share Posted January 27, 2019 Roger I tried to do a lot of shell repairs whilst the body was still on the chassis, although not the floors, so as Stuart said at that point it needed bracing when taking the body off the chassis. So I welded both door braces and cross braces in place. I then did some futher work, but boy did those braces get in the way. Hence deciding to fabricate the bolt on versions later. They seemed to offer extra flexibility over having them perm welded in place whilst still (I hope) providing the needed support and being angled and pre-holed it also allowed cross braces to be bolted in place as well. All seems ok at the moment but I suppose I’ll only know when its 100% complete…..err…..one day. Cheers Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rogcastle Posted January 27, 2019 Report Share Posted January 27, 2019 Keith Good luck it will be worth it in the end. I bought mine a couple of years ago and the body has had a fair number of new panels over years and the rest is not too bad apart from the chassis which needs too much welding done. I am not going to sell it, so fancy a new chassis in a few years time. Let us know how you get on and when its on the road, Roger . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davidwilliams221 Posted January 27, 2019 Report Share Posted January 27, 2019 Hi all, ‘I’ve just taken my 71 of the chassis having made up a rotisserie, i went for welding in the boxing to strengthen although take the point about access.. i took some measurements before removing it and all seems fine. So pleased but daunted, but if it’s worth doing huh..next step is blasting.. I have a few questions; chassiss doesn’t look too bad whilst covered in muck and grease, but looks like a couple of areas of repair.. where rust is concerned, where do you stop..? Can you treat (derust or chemically remove/solidify rust within the chassis boxing? i know a lot of people will say keep as original as possible and I’m all for that but surely it makes sense to upgrade suspension brakes etc.? Anyone recommend decent upgrades and suppliers.? unleaded conversion or not..? im assuming even the purest would expect all perishables to be replaced on a full restoration.? this is my first time so if anyone wants to share any pearls or photos please do.. Thanks for your time David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 On 1/25/2019 at 6:39 PM, Keith66 said: Hi Ers I had the underneath of my and panelless shell painted off chassis and had similar concerns about transport. Although Stuart is correct in that if floors and sill all repaired ok the strength should be enough i took a belt and braces approach and made some bolt on strengthening support struts out of some old industrial shelf support angle iron, as pic. I thought the adavantage over welding them in place was the ease of removal and reattachment as needed. Maybe overkill, but didn't take long to knock up and weld together. Cheers Keith I like the idea of using Dexion shelving cross members for the bracing the tub! I have seen it used in many other applications but never for this. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 Guys Given that the door fit is such an integral part of a good body rebuild, you really do need to be able to fit and remove doors at will - much better to bolt your braces to the inside lip of the door aperture - it’s plenty deep enough to take a 1/4 “ bolt but use a drill size to make a tight fit - any holes can be filled later or simply left as they will be covered by the door seal . You can then put cross braces across from these, again bolted together, in situ, so they can be removed if necessary and then re-assembled in exactly the same place. Just my few thoughts from what I have found works well One last point - try and make sure the bottoms ( not just the tops) of the A &B posts don’t move in or out as if they do, you really will have a difficult, if not impossible job getting good alignment between the wings , doors and sills so brace these as well - I’m about to make some adjustable braces with a threaded turn buckle in the middle to allow small adjustments - will try and post some pics in due course cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davidwilliams221 Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 that makes sense. Sorry gents have I jumped on a discussion out of place, should I have started a fresh topic or is this acceptable etiquette to expand these discussions.? Any thoughts on my other questions.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted January 28, 2019 Report Share Posted January 28, 2019 David PM me your phone number and I will happily talk you through your issues cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davidwilliams221 Posted January 29, 2019 Report Share Posted January 29, 2019 (edited) Hi Rich, my mobile is I'm around Wednesday pretty much all day if convenient.. Edited January 30, 2019 by Davidwilliams221 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted January 29, 2019 Report Share Posted January 29, 2019 (edited) David - don’t leave your mobile on the open forum as all sorts of undesirables can take advantage of it - I have noted it down so suggest you go back and edit your post by removing it i assume you don’t know what a PM is which is common with new posters and I wish this was better explained to new forum users ( John Morrison - if you see this post please take note) Basically click on the the name of the poster and it will give you some options to send a “message’ - this will be a personal message sent to my inbox so only you and I see it - alternatively look at the top of the forum page and you will see an icon of an envelope - click on this and it will take you into your personal message box where you can do a number of things - if there is a red flag next to your envelope icon , it means there is an unread message for you in there - I’m always surprised how many new posters I’ve sent PMs to haven’t read them after months later. Look at your envelope icons folks! cheers Rich Edited January 29, 2019 by rcreweread clarification Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davidwilliams221 Posted January 30, 2019 Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 Thank you Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted January 31, 2019 Report Share Posted January 31, 2019 What happened to the OP ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davidwilliams221 Posted January 31, 2019 Report Share Posted January 31, 2019 Op..? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted January 31, 2019 Report Share Posted January 31, 2019 13 minutes ago, Davidwilliams221 said: Op..? Original Poster or Post. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 1, 2019 Report Share Posted February 1, 2019 On 1/31/2019 at 1:50 AM, foster461 said: What happened to the OP ? He is the same one who pulled the post about the chassis with rot problems. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted February 1, 2019 Report Share Posted February 1, 2019 35 minutes ago, stuart said: He is the same one who pulled the post about the chassis with rot problems. Stuart. Thanks Stuart, I had not made the connection. So he had his account removed but only requested the chassis rot thread to be deleted. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 1, 2019 Report Share Posted February 1, 2019 2 hours ago, foster461 said: Thanks Stuart, I had not made the connection. So he had his account removed but only requested the chassis rot thread to be deleted. Stan No idea as he apparently got the office to delete the chassis thread, he must have forgotten about this one. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davidwilliams221 Posted February 12, 2019 Report Share Posted February 12, 2019 Could someone tell me some dimensions for front engine Bay Area. Specifically dimensions between inner wings above the wheel arches and at some point between a point on the bulk head (firewall) and front valance either side by the light wells. Or somewhere where they might be stated. Would be much appreciated Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.