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TR Shop Fuel Tank


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Hi Guys

i going to bite the bullet and solve the **** coming out the tank and also the baffle problem. I would like to know if buying the Steel Tank from the TR Shop is a good buy. The Alloy tank from most suppliers does not get good votes or so I am told, and best one being from a supplier who has now stopped manufacturing the TR 6 tank. 

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Paul what's coming out of the tank, I ask because today before fitting my tank I inspected the inside, it was covered in a thin layer of a black substance. It was easily cleaned with a Alkaline wash, as an extra precaution I cut out an access hole in the top and gave it a thorough wipe out. Re-welded the access plate back in and now rather pleased with its service condition.

Regards

Paul

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I fitted a TR-Shop tank a couple of weeks ago, I managed to get 4 of the 6 bolts in eventually, the brackets just aren't in the right place to get the others anywhere near done up. Note that this tank is also slightly smaller than the original, apart from that it's fine.

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Hi Paul

its benn ongoing with jellied petrol as the car had stood two years, but as I said the baffle problem when the tank is low does my head in when turning left

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Picture of the inside of my tank looking down at the delivery pot.

image.png.8442e133a8039d244e4e18dec7e896a9.png

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9 hours ago, Paul J said:

Paul what's coming out of the tank, I ask because today before fitting my tank I inspected the inside, it was covered in a thin layer of a black substance. It was easily cleaned with a Alkaline wash, as an extra precaution I cut out an access hole in the top and gave it a thorough wipe out. Re-welded the access plate back in and now rather pleased with its service condition.

Regards

Paul

I am in the process of getting the fuel tank ready to go back into my TR2. It had a new bottom fitted by the previous owner so I have had a fuel outlet fitting installed by a tank specialist. The tank is very clean inside visually so I didn't have them clean it, it costs a small fortune for tank cleaning here.

Fuel cleanliness isn't as critical with the TR2 engine as it is with a TR6PI but I do want to get the inside of the tank as clean as I can before I paint and install it.

I have been flushing it out with petrol and now have it so very little debris, rust flakes, are coming out. Although the fuel is pretty clean I would like to get it better. 

What alkaline solution did you use? Did you need to do anything else to the tank?

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The Alloy tank from most suppliers does not get good votes or so I am told

I installed an Alloy Tank.....with the clean up regarding steel tanks I have been reading here, I do not regret this.

Why do the alloy tanks have a bad reputation?

Jochem

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Hi Jochem,

  I have read that many of the Alloy tanks have badly made body attachments.

After some use they rip out of the tank and can cause leaking etc.

One particular tank has an extra band around  that has the attachments. This spreads the load.  But many do not.

 

Roger

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i have fitted several of my cars with an alloy tanks over the years without problems other than the line up of the odd hole. I do however as a precaution not overtighten the outer bolts, any flexing would be greatest here, but apart from stories I am not aware of anyone personally who has had an issue but I think this sort of concern applies to many parts and gets repeated, best to buy the part which  you are happy with.

 

Rob

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I've had no cracking  issues with my alloy tank. Don't know who designed it but the tank's nozzle layout makes a lot of sense  , feeding the PRV return nozzle  at the opposite side of the tank to the suction nozzle really gives the return fuel a chance to cool before it returns to the Bosch pump.

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A producer of aluminium petrol tanks has to realize that on our TRs the attachments are not ony there to hold the tank in position,

but also must guide all the forces of the moving car body in the petrol tank while the car is driving.

This is not the case on all classic cars.

Jochem, in my opinion with an aluminium tank you loose TÜV, Betriebserlaubnis and H - registration, if the TÜV does not license it.

Edited by Z320
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8 hours ago, John McCormack said:

I am in the process of getting the fuel tank ready to go back into my TR2. It had a new bottom fitted by the previous owner so I have had a fuel outlet fitting installed by a tank specialist. The tank is very clean inside visually so I didn't have them clean it, it costs a small fortune for tank cleaning here.

Fuel cleanliness isn't as critical with the TR2 engine as it is with a TR6PI but I do want to get the inside of the tank as clean as I can before I paint and install it.

I have been flushing it out with petrol and now have it so very little debris, rust flakes, are coming out. Although the fuel is pretty clean I would like to get it better. 

What alkaline solution did you use? Did you need to do anything else to the tank?

John

The Alkaline solution I used was left over from a small chrome plating kit I used a few years ago so the strength of it or brand I could not tell you, it was not particularly strong but it did easily dissolve the black deposits in the tank. I wiped it dry after easily done through the top access hole I had cut out, I did wipe it out with a thin coating of ACF50 to prevent any oxidising as Im not ready for start up yet.

Incidentally I will be in your neck of the woods in March (Gymea Bay).

Best regards

Paul

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8 hours ago, Paul J said:

John

The Alkaline solution I used was left over from a small chrome plating kit I used a few years ago so the strength of it or brand I could not tell you, it was not particularly strong but it did easily dissolve the black deposits in the tank. I wiped it dry after easily done through the top access hole I had cut out, I did wipe it out with a thin coating of ACF50 to prevent any oxidising as Im not ready for start up yet.

Incidentally I will be in your neck of the woods in March (Gymea Bay).

Best regards

Paul

Not far from me. I live in the inner west about 5kms from the city. Let me know when you are here.

I had Tim Hunt from the UK along to a TR Register meet last month.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I ended up using vinegar which removed a hell of a lot of rust flakes. However, I then rinsed the tank out with water, let it dry in the sun on a 40degC day and rinsed it with petrol.

Now a few days later there seems to be a lot of surface rust and a fair few flakes come out when I rinse it with petrol.

Help!!

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Hi Guys 

The fuel tank that was fitted in the 1974 model year did it have baffles and a swirl pot, I ask as at the Triumph and MG Spares show today I was told that it has

Edited by Paul Hill
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I designed and had a Alloy tank fabricated with a attached swirl pot etc.  The attachment points in my opinion and my fabricators opinion are a concern for fatigue cracking down the road.  My attachment points were both longer and angled to spread out the loads not in a straight line, and out of a softer alloy than the rest of the tank.  It would be easy enough to fabricate my design out of steel but I think the fatigue cracking of especially the side plates would warrant a load distribution scheme.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

The tank problem is now solved. We drained the tank took off the fuel line to the pump all was clear filter was clean, we then got the micro camera into the tank where we noticed a little seal from a Petrol can that had fell in and  gone hard, it was jammed in the outlet. We removed said item and car is now running like a train. Thanks guys for your advice which was spot on.

 

Edited by Paul Hill
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I always use a tank resin,  used it many a time on old motor bikes,  it is the way to go,  you can buy a kit to do it, did the 6 10 years ago due to rust in the system, also means the original tank lines up when treated, and it saves money,  pink 

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