RogerH Posted June 29, 2020 Report Share Posted June 29, 2020 Hi Andy, the leaking seals are quite interesting - note There is no oil next to the seals. There is a 3" gap between the gearbox where the cogs are and the O rings. The oil capillaries along the selector rods. Almost no pressure. It just happens. If left unchecked it can make quite a bad drip on driveways etc. The lip seal mod I believe is worth while. The boot under the rods is belt and braces. I've sent you a PM Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted June 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2020 (edited) Sorry me, my thoughts are this: - the crankshaft is in line with both gearbox shafts (in/outgoing) - on the first look the assambly engine-gearbox looks like being vertical in the car - but indeed it is not - the front end of the crankshaft is about 7 cm higher than the end of the outgoing gearbox shaft - the hole assambly is inclined about 3° down to the rear (my own calculation) - with the cogs spinning the oil is splashing up to the selector shaft, runs them down by 3° to their ends and to the seals - inside the gearbox top cover - in the overhanging part - is a nasty sump of oil, on the rear at the seals some [mm] deeper then on "entrance" - all the oil wants to go there and all the oil wants to go out there sooner or later - on the drawing in the manual the "entrance" works like a rim (?), then doesn't let all oil flow back This I assume, I have to make a close look if this is of any interest: - the gearbox extension (with the outgoing shaft spinning there) is coned - so 3° in the car the ground of the extension is about vertical, the oil there flows back to the gearbox - there is no oily sump and no rim there to see on the drawing on the manual Edited June 30, 2020 by Z320 the rim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 30, 2020 Report Share Posted June 30, 2020 (edited) Nice engineering solution Roger. You could run the oil return to the o/d vent - would you filter it to avoid FOD.? - a simple tea strainer gauze or piece of net curtain stuck over the plunged outflow tube. My only issue would be getting the anti rattle spring and plunger in the base of the gearstick. On a sidescreen car you can locate them with your fingers from below before fitting the tunnel. This is because you need the tunnel loose to get the gear stick gaiter located properly if you have gone to a 4 synchro box or it pops out when first is engaged. I guess the tie wrap trick would be required if you box that area in. I do have another trick for stopping the oil drips from the selectors getting on the garage floor. A plastic bag round the exposed area of the remote held in place with a tie wrap. I had considered a margarine tub with rounded ends that would fit the shape of the remote. - Again, attached with tie wraps. Peter W PS Hold on...if you have a tube from there to the gearbox oil system you could top up the gearbox through a hole drilled in the gearstick. Or better still devise a dip stick system which you could fill and test oil level through. I think this may have been done before but deleted by Triumph as it meant grubby mechanics would be at risk of dropping oil on your carpet. Edited June 30, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 30, 2020 Report Share Posted June 30, 2020 (edited) Hi Peter never thought about the anti-rattle spring/pin. Mine gear stick just goes in and no rattle I will not be re-routing oil here and there. The lip seals will work Roger Edited September 4, 2020 by RogerH typo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted June 30, 2020 Report Share Posted June 30, 2020 6 hours ago, RogerH said: The lip seals will work But then what will stop your chassis rusting? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 30, 2020 Report Share Posted June 30, 2020 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Schnippel Posted September 4, 2020 Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 4, 2020 Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 So simple. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted September 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 (edited) hmmm, a ball pen, a piece foam, two sizes of punch 6 mm and 12 mm, a hammer (not on the photos), a scissors (also not), the foam does not clamp the shafts because it does not expand sidewards when you compress it, this could work... Edited September 4, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted September 5, 2020 Report Share Posted September 5, 2020 I like it. Nice! Jochem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted November 12, 2020 Report Share Posted November 12, 2020 (edited) On 9/4/2020 at 1:14 AM, Schnippel said: How well does this slow the flow of oil out of the top box? And what is that material? These sort of Fisher Price solutions are right for me. What. A. Great. Thread. Edited November 12, 2020 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 Is that a neoprene based foam or more along the lines of packaging material that does not have a great deal of flexibility? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.