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how to get the gearbox sealed on the selector shafts?

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Hi Andy,

the leaking seals are quite interesting - note

There is no oil next to the seals. There is a 3" gap between the gearbox where the cogs are and the O rings.

The oil capillaries along the selector rods.  Almost no pressure. It just happens.  If left unchecked it can make quite a bad drip on driveways etc.

The lip seal mod I believe is worth while. The boot under the rods is belt and braces.

I've sent you a PM



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Sorry me, my thoughts are this:

- the crankshaft is in line with both gearbox shafts (in/outgoing)

- on the first look the assambly engine-gearbox looks like being vertical in the car - but indeed it is not

- the front end of the crankshaft is about 7 cm higher than the end of the outgoing gearbox shaft

- the hole assambly is inclined about 3° down to the rear (my own calculation)

- with the cogs spinning the oil is splashing up to the selector shaft, runs them down by 3° to their ends and to the seals

- inside the gearbox top cover - in the overhanging part - is a nasty sump of oil, on the rear at the seals some [mm] deeper then on "entrance"

- all the oil wants to go there and all the oil wants to go out there sooner or later

- on the drawing in the manual the "entrance" works like a rim (?), then doesn't let all oil flow back

This I assume, I have to make a close look if this is of any interest:

- the gearbox extension (with the outgoing shaft spinning there) is coned

- so 3° in the car the ground of the extension is about vertical, the oil there flows back to the gearbox

- there is no oily sump and no rim there to see on the drawing on the manual

Edited by Z320
the rim
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Nice engineering solution Roger.  You could run the oil return to the o/d vent  - would you filter it to avoid FOD.? - a simple tea strainer gauze or piece of net curtain stuck over the plunged outflow tube.

My only issue would be getting the anti rattle spring and plunger in the base of the gearstick.  On a sidescreen car you can locate them with your fingers from below before fitting the tunnel.  This is because you need the tunnel loose to get the gear stick gaiter located properly if you have gone to a 4 synchro box or it pops out when first is engaged.   I guess the tie wrap trick would be required if you box that area in.

I do have another trick for stopping the oil drips from the selectors getting on the garage floor.  A plastic bag round the exposed area of the remote held in place with a tie wrap.  I had considered a margarine tub with rounded ends that would fit the shape of the remote. - Again, attached with tie wraps.


Peter W

PS Hold on...if you have a tube from there to the gearbox oil system you could top up the gearbox through a hole drilled in the gearstick.  Or better still devise a dip stick system which you could fill and test oil level through.  I think this may have been done before but deleted by Triumph as it meant grubby mechanics would be at risk of dropping oil on your carpet.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Hi Peter

never thought about the anti-rattle spring/pin. Mine gear stick just goes in and no rattle

I will not be re-routing oil here and there. The lip seals will work:blink:



Edited by RogerH
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  • 2 months later...

hmmm, a ball pen, a piece foam, two sizes of punch 6 mm and 12 mm, a hammer (not on the photos), a scissors (also not),

the foam does not clamp the shafts because it does not expand sidewards when you compress it,

this could work...

Edited by Z320
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  • 2 months later...
On 9/4/2020 at 1:14 AM, Schnippel said:



How well does this slow the flow of oil out of the top box?  And what is that material?  These sort of Fisher Price solutions are right for me.


What. A. Great. Thread. 

Edited by David Owen
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  • 3 weeks later...

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