Hamish Posted February 3, 2019 Report Share Posted February 3, 2019 Great engineering and photo record Marco H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 3, 2019 Report Share Posted February 3, 2019 (edited) Hi Marco, you are a clever little sausage (that is a compliment) When you fitted the interlock balls you did also fit the small bar between them - please say yes. Roger Edited February 3, 2019 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2019 (edited) Yesss, I did it, as you told me, thank you. And I checked if the interlock works - it does. This I did because I could have lost one ball without realising this in the chamber between. Also checked this be shaking the hole assebly as strong as I'm able to - with everything quiet inside. Ciao Marco Edited February 3, 2019 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted February 3, 2019 Report Share Posted February 3, 2019 Very nice execution on those seals, Marco. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2019 (edited) Hi folks, I am very sorry to tell you, one of my little helpers died a lonesome dead in my workshop - the spring loaded clamp. She served me since surely 25 years without any complaint, always helpful and patient. Me and my wife realized it by a very loud noise when the spring killed the plastic and the broken pieces have been flying through the workshop. Luckily I was not next to here (afraid of fingers and teeth) and the gear box cover was positioned balanced in the squared timber. So RIP dear spring loaded clamp. The next generation will be made of aluminium. Ciao Marco Edited February 3, 2019 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted February 3, 2019 Report Share Posted February 3, 2019 Nice Marco! Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
had17462 Posted February 4, 2019 Report Share Posted February 4, 2019 Marco ,hope this works for you ,I have had a leak from the some place without any success of repairing it, if it does work I would like to purchase the said seals if you decide to make any more. regards Nick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2019 (edited) Hi Nick, thank you for your interest, I will report, or you use Roger's Q seals.... Ciao, Marco Edited February 5, 2019 by Z320 Roger's Q seals Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 Nice work Marko Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2019 (edited) Ready, last photo, all (6) plugs around in the housing I coated with 2K glue for the case they are not sealed, that already works well on the shaft of my old pertol pump. I used no paper seal but "Dirko grau" (Dirko grey), that comes lovely with aluminium, and glues all 8 bolts in with Loctite medium to got the threads sealed (for the case oil comes up). See how it works this summer.... Ciao / Cheers, Marco Edited February 8, 2019 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted February 9, 2019 Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 One of the most elaborate; documented and detailed thread i've read in a long time. Kudos ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 (edited) Hi Folks, I have revisited this topic. In order to stop/reduce the oil leak at the end of the selector rods I fitted new 'O' rings and then 'Q' seals. Neither of these worked as well as I would have expected. It may be that the counterbore is too slack for the rings. I found an answer but it is a bodge and have always wanted a definitive answer. Marco's engineering wizardry was perhaps a bit too much for the ordinary fiddler. So I did a search for bits and pieces. I found the seals that I wanted 3/4"OD x 1/2"ID x 1/8" thick (3mm). P/No.NBR07505013A from Brammer Bearings and Seals. I also found on ebay a very nice 3/4" end mill with 1/2" pilot - perfect. The other day TRevor advertised an old GB on the buy/sell/swap forum - so I went for that as I needed the top cover. The attached photos show the process - Pic 19A shows the top cover firmly attached to the work bench Pic 20A shows the cutter inserted and sitting on the steady Pic 21A shows the drill attached Pic 23A shows the centre hole counter bored Pic 26A shows all 3 seals insitu and the metal remaining I will set the seals in with Loctite 638 The process is very simple and requires no serious machinery apart from a decent cutter. The above cost outlay including the gearbox was apprx £30. - result. PS - in order to drive the cutter I needed to get my electric drill working (new lead required) having done this I found the chuck was not true - rats. Roger 19 20 21 23 26 Edited June 26, 2020 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaeldavis39 Posted June 26, 2020 Report Share Posted June 26, 2020 Have you tested your gearbox selectors for leaks yet Roger after your "fix" Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted June 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 (edited) Hi Roger, congratulations for this, it is alway a good idea to give something a second thought how to make it more simple and for "everyone". (I'm not jealous but count them, you got more likes - also one from me - for only one post than me for the whole thread) I suppose after testing you will realize what I did some week ago (sorry, I did not report) with my seals: it works fine, is better sealed but not completely. On my gearbox the right side selector shaft leaks more than the two others, it might be the quality of the shafts surface is not good ennough. Anyway I'm pleased with the result. For a better result the shafts and lower end of the leaver stick must not be outside the gearbox but covered with a seald housing from below. Ciao, Marco Edited June 27, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 49 minutes ago, Z320 said: (I'm not jealous but count them, you got more likes for only one post than me for the whole therad) Ciao, Marco Marco i am sure we all read your posts and envy your skills and thinking . Always interesting and i should have pressed the like button to keep you inspired . Keep posting ROY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 1 hour ago, Z320 said: For a better result the shafts and lower end of the leaver stick must not be outside the gearbox but covered with a seald housing from below. Ciao, Marco Hi Marco, indeed the weathering of the shaft, where the seals sit, is a problem. I think it is possible to box that area in. I'll have a look. I looked at the little hole in the shaft. It doesn't go anywhere and isn't fed with oil. Most odd!! Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 29, 2020 Report Share Posted June 29, 2020 On 6/27/2020 at 7:37 AM, Z320 said: For a better result the shafts and lower end of the leaver stick must not be outside the gearbox but covered with a seald housing from below. Ciao, Marco Hi Marco, I had a look at your concern of the selectors rods being outside in the dirty environment under the car. I have come up with a shape/design that is functional but not overly pretty I wanted to make the cover with a rounded end - a demi-hemi-sphere (1/4 sphere) and then add the sides to it but there is just not enough room to play with. The first and second pic shows the position of the central rod with 1st gear selected - there is actually 1/4" spare. The third pic shows the cover attached. It would certainly work with a thin smear of sealant around the edges Not pretty but out of sight. Also as it is sealed it would probably catch all the oil from the leaky seals. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 29, 2020 Report Share Posted June 29, 2020 I like that “enclosing” a lot well done Roger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted June 29, 2020 Report Share Posted June 29, 2020 Roger, If you cleaned up the welds you could take a mould and produce them in fiberglass. As you say if it seals properly there would be no need to mess about with the rod seals. I guess they could leak as much as they liked because, eventually, the level of the oil in the “Cover” would be up to the bottom of the rod holes and so it would drain back. A real “Thinking outside the box” idea. (Yes… “Thinking outside the gear-box”) What a quick and easy fix it would be if it works. Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 29, 2020 Report Share Posted June 29, 2020 Hi Charlie, I thought about the cover acting as a seal for the dodgy 'O' rings that are fitted but that isn't really the best engineering practice. Also I would then have a nice cutting tool going redundant. I like the lip seals. I like the idea of the fibreglass option although it would be apprx 2mm too big but would probably bend enough to compensate. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted June 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2020 (edited) L-O-V-E-L-Y ! But.. ( not negativ) One question ( not asked yet) gave me a different idea: what to do with the oil collected there? You know, the selector shaft housing vertical on the workbench is indeed wedged the rear end down in the cars frame with the gearbox! So all oil that is collected on the rear end of your cover. It's shape is perfect! And if you drain it with a hose back to the gearbox - you don't have to seal it! I think of the filler plug drilled and a 1/8" pipe glued in there, ready to fit a hose, the other end on your cover. Edited June 29, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted June 29, 2020 Report Share Posted June 29, 2020 Roger , If you took the mould from the INSIDE of your steel cover you would end up with an exact replica of what you have when you put fiberglass on the OUTSIDE of that mould. You could make it as thick as you liked and the cover to gearbox dimension would always be the same. Easier still, pour Plaster of Paris into your steel cover (using a release agent) and you have a nice solid mould to vac-form a plastic cover. Cost less than a pound each and you could knock out 20 an hour. (You do have a vac-forming machine I guess….) Marco, I feel bad for not giving you any of the credit for this idea. After all, it was YOU who put the idea in Roger’s mind. Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 29, 2020 Report Share Posted June 29, 2020 Hi Marco, stop inventing I think with the lip seal and the boot, leaks will only be a distant memory Hi Charlie No, I do not have a vac-forming machine. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted June 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2020 Sorry me.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted June 29, 2020 Report Share Posted June 29, 2020 9 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Marco, I had a look at your concern of the selectors rods being outside in the dirty environment under the car. I have come up with a shape/design that is functional but not overly pretty I wanted to make the cover with a rounded end - a demi-hemi-sphere (1/4 sphere) and then add the sides to it but there is just not enough room to play with. The first and second pic shows the position of the central rod with 1st gear selected - there is actually 1/4" spare. The third pic shows the cover attached. It would certainly work with a thin smear of sealant around the edges Not pretty but out of sight. Also as it is sealed it would probably catch all the oil from the leaky seals. Roger Good thread both Marco/Roger for a long standing problem I knew nothing about. My gearbox has been rebuilt with all the usual weak spots addressed apart from this one. While its under the bench I think I'll drag it out and box in the area in as you suggest Roger as I hate oil leaks as our two house cats like walking it all over the house and I get earache from the wife! I'm thinking of using Ali as I have a mate who is a dab hand with the TIG. Out of interest how much oil leaks in practice. Is a drain back to the GB really needed given the mod/catch tank stops any escape will it not simply find a level and return back and if so are any seals required at all? Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.