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Rear spring removal

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I've searched the relevant forums but not found the sequence to remove and replace the rear springs on my TR5.

Will it be necessary to unbolt the drive shafts as well as the shock absorber?.I assume the rear antiroll bar will have to be at least loosened if not removed 

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You might be better posting in the TR5 forum

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You will need to withdraw the drive shafts as they will hit the chassis rail before the TA is low enough.

 

Roger

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Try this. 

Free the damper link

Tralling arm will lower until the drive shaft rests on the frame

Squeze the spring in place without the ruber spring colars

Jackup the trailling arm compressing the spring to normal height

With a pair of clips set 3 spring coils in a compress position

Jack down the trailling arm and there is enough  free spring space to squeze in the top and bottom colars

Jackup and free the clips :) it worked for me, with some sweat...

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To R&R rear spring:

Jack up rear, place stand under chassis to inside of rear axle.

Remove road wheel, brake drum (turn in shoe adjustment so drum slides off freely), (6) nuts securing outer half-shaft, undo outer gaiter/boot  & wire (if present), slide out axle half-shaft at splines from inner half-shaft.

Place rolling jack under rear of TA, allowing room to remove the two nuts securing the shock to the TA.

Jack up slightly & remove the two nuts/washer (note the thread length showing at bottom).

You will want to separate the emergency brake cable & the brake line rubber hose.

Lower jack slowly until you can feel the spring come free.

Use new spring pads if you have them.

You can figure out the reassembly. It gets a little tricky because the spring wants to move.

Do NOT over-torque the (6) nuts (15-18 lb.ft. is plenty) when replacing the axle.

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Edited by Sapphire72

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When I worked the first time on the rear axle I tryed to hold the coil spring in a compressed position and would not recommend this to you.

I never only put the springs out, I would try to do this with only undo the drive shafts from the differential.

Edited by Z320

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16 hours ago, D1070 said:

I've searched the relevant forums but not found the sequence to remove and replace the rear springs on my TR5.

Will it be necessary to unbolt the drive shafts as well as the shock absorber?.I assume the rear antiroll bar will have to be at least loosened if not removed 

Hi Laurence,

                 if you go the 'drive shaft out' route then consider modifying the stud hole where the handbrake cable is supported on top of the TA.

There is a nut that needs undoing and removing between the drive shaft and the TA 12-o-clock position. File this round hole into a slot.

This way the nut needs only a one or two turn slackening to remove the stud support.   When in service the stud works against the TA towards the brakes so the slot is quite safe.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
typo

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TBH I suspect with the type of spring on yours then you would only need to disconnect the shock and drop each axle until the shaft is touching the chassis and the spring would easily lever out with a tyre lever as its quite short.

Stuart.

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2 hours ago, stuart said:

TBH I suspect with the type of spring on yours then you would only need to disconnect the shock and drop each axle until the shaft is touching the chassis and the spring would easily lever out with a tyre lever as its quite short.

Stuart.

Good point Stuart, they are 1 inch, approx ,shorter than stock,so it may be possible to remove them without disturbing the drive shafts. 

Cheers 

Laurence 

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13 hours ago, Sapphire72 said:

To R&R rear spring:

Jack up rear, place stand under chassis to inside of rear axle.

Remove road wheel, brake drum (turn in shoe adjustment so drum slides off freely), (6) nuts securing outer half-shaft, undo outer gaiter/boot  & wire (if present), slide out axle half-shaft at splines from inner half-shaft.

Place rolling jack under rear of TA, allowing room to remove the two nuts securing the shock to the TA.

Jack up slightly & remove the two nuts/washer (note the thread length showing at bottom).

You will want to separate the emergency brake cable & the brake line rubber hose.

Lower jack slowly until you can feel the spring come free.

Use new spring pads if you have them.

You can figure out the reassembly. It gets a little tricky because the spring wants to move.

Do NOT over-torque the (6) nuts (15-18 lb.ft. is plenty) when replacing the axle.

DSCF1159 (4).JPG

DSCF1161 (1).JPG

DSCF1173 (2).JPG

DSCF1189 (1).JPG

Torque figure noted,thankyou

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While its all apart Laurence you might consider replacing the 5/15 unf studs with something more meaty.

CDD do a very reasonably priced kit, and rent out drilling guide, drills and taps that make this a doddle.

the new studs are 3/8 unc at the alloy swingarm end, a much more secure arrangement than 40 year old 5/16 unf :-)

steve

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