D1070 Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 I've searched the relevant forums but not found the sequence to remove and replace the rear springs on my TR5. Will it be necessary to unbolt the drive shafts as well as the shock absorber?.I assume the rear antiroll bar will have to be at least loosened if not removed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Hill Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 You might be better posting in the TR5 forum Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 You will need to withdraw the drive shafts as they will hit the chassis rail before the TA is low enough. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr6tuga Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 Try this. Free the damper link Tralling arm will lower until the drive shaft rests on the frame Squeze the spring in place without the ruber spring colars Jackup the trailling arm compressing the spring to normal height With a pair of clips set 3 spring coils in a compress position Jack down the trailling arm and there is enough free spring space to squeze in the top and bottom colars Jackup and free the clips it worked for me, with some sweat... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 (edited) To R&R rear spring: Jack up rear, place stand under chassis to inside of rear axle. Remove road wheel, brake drum (turn in shoe adjustment so drum slides off freely), (6) nuts securing outer half-shaft, undo outer gaiter/boot & wire (if present), slide out axle half-shaft at splines from inner half-shaft. Place rolling jack under rear of TA, allowing room to remove the two nuts securing the shock to the TA. Jack up slightly & remove the two nuts/washer (note the thread length showing at bottom). You will want to separate the emergency brake cable & the brake line rubber hose. Lower jack slowly until you can feel the spring come free. Use new spring pads if you have them. You can figure out the reassembly. It gets a little tricky because the spring wants to move. Do NOT over-torque the (6) nuts (15-18 lb.ft. is plenty) when replacing the axle. Edited January 17, 2019 by Sapphire72 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted January 18, 2019 Report Share Posted January 18, 2019 (edited) When I worked the first time on the rear axle I tryed to hold the coil spring in a compressed position and would not recommend this to you. I never only put the springs out, I would try to do this with only undo the drive shafts from the differential. Edited January 18, 2019 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 18, 2019 Report Share Posted January 18, 2019 (edited) 16 hours ago, D1070 said: I've searched the relevant forums but not found the sequence to remove and replace the rear springs on my TR5. Will it be necessary to unbolt the drive shafts as well as the shock absorber?.I assume the rear antiroll bar will have to be at least loosened if not removed Hi Laurence, if you go the 'drive shaft out' route then consider modifying the stud hole where the handbrake cable is supported on top of the TA. There is a nut that needs undoing and removing between the drive shaft and the TA 12-o-clock position. File this round hole into a slot. This way the nut needs only a one or two turn slackening to remove the stud support. When in service the stud works against the TA towards the brakes so the slot is quite safe. Roger Edited January 18, 2019 by RogerH typo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 18, 2019 Report Share Posted January 18, 2019 TBH I suspect with the type of spring on yours then you would only need to disconnect the shock and drop each axle until the shaft is touching the chassis and the spring would easily lever out with a tyre lever as its quite short. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
D1070 Posted January 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2019 2 hours ago, stuart said: TBH I suspect with the type of spring on yours then you would only need to disconnect the shock and drop each axle until the shaft is touching the chassis and the spring would easily lever out with a tyre lever as its quite short. Stuart. Good point Stuart, they are 1 inch, approx ,shorter than stock,so it may be possible to remove them without disturbing the drive shafts. Cheers Laurence Quote Link to post Share on other sites
D1070 Posted January 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2019 13 hours ago, Sapphire72 said: To R&R rear spring: Jack up rear, place stand under chassis to inside of rear axle. Remove road wheel, brake drum (turn in shoe adjustment so drum slides off freely), (6) nuts securing outer half-shaft, undo outer gaiter/boot & wire (if present), slide out axle half-shaft at splines from inner half-shaft. Place rolling jack under rear of TA, allowing room to remove the two nuts securing the shock to the TA. Jack up slightly & remove the two nuts/washer (note the thread length showing at bottom). You will want to separate the emergency brake cable & the brake line rubber hose. Lower jack slowly until you can feel the spring come free. Use new spring pads if you have them. You can figure out the reassembly. It gets a little tricky because the spring wants to move. Do NOT over-torque the (6) nuts (15-18 lb.ft. is plenty) when replacing the axle. Torque figure noted,thankyou Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 18, 2019 Report Share Posted January 18, 2019 While its all apart Laurence you might consider replacing the 5/15 unf studs with something more meaty. CDD do a very reasonably priced kit, and rent out drilling guide, drills and taps that make this a doddle. the new studs are 3/8 unc at the alloy swingarm end, a much more secure arrangement than 40 year old 5/16 unf :-) steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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