2-post lift points for TR7

[UlsterTR7]

Guys - what are the factory recommended lift points to place the four pads of the arms of a 2-post lift under the TR7 2-litre? I have a few likely locations under the car but want to find out what the recommended lifting points are; they're four circular pads and not two ramps so can't use the wheels.

Both my front floor pans are almost domed upwards due to incorrect use of a jack or lift by previous owners so I don't want to make the same mistake. At the rear the tie-down brackets seem to cover the reinforced points and mine are already squashed almost flat. I take it the circular 'marks' on the floor pans are not lifting points, going by the damage already there?

Edited January 14, 2019 by UlsterTR7

[TR8IAN]

Hi Ulster.

There are jacking points just forward of the front floor pan (note pin sticking out of strengthening member) and at the rear at the rear of the cill panel.

When I jack up my car on my lift I generally try to locate the rears onto the rear swinging arms if I don't want the suspension to drop.

 

Cheers

Ian

 

[UlsterTR7]

Thanks Ian; I managed to get the front pads onto the strengthened lift areas behind the pin, and so far nothing has bent inwards.... rears are on the rear swinging arms which isn't ideal as I want to replace springs shocks and bushes there too. I'll move them forward once I get that far.

Colin

[Motorsport Mickey]

1 hour ago, UlsterTR7 said:

Thanks Ian; I managed to get the front pads onto the strengthened lift areas behind the pin, and so far nothing has bent inwards.... rears are on the rear swinging arms which isn't ideal as I want to replace springs shocks and bushes there too. I'll move them forward once I get that far.

Colin

Just be careful jacking on the rear swing arms, the rear bulkhead which the arms are attached to along with the different length radius arms is very thin. On the race car we were welding cracks from the mounting brackets areas twice a season and this on a Californian import car without any signs of rot at all. I realise we were "working" the shell and suspensions much harder than a road car but all we did was accelerate the condition which will eventually be met.

You could try placing the pads on the box section outriggers which run down the car either side of the transmission tunnel and the spare wheel well, it's much thicker section material and spreads the stresses well into the shell.

Mick Richards  

[UlsterTR7]

Thanks Mick; I'll try that. The underside of the car is solid, which is surprising given the amount of rust on the suspension components, and the subframe, which is past saving. The front suspension is almost finished; so I've to move to the rear within a week and start there.