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Waldi

Her first start

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Hi Waldi,

correct. If present, the vacuum advance moves the baseplate, retard or advance. The width of the rotor ensures „contact“ to the terminal.

The first distributor in the pics had a retard capsule. I disconnected the spring, moved the baseplate in the right position and secured it with a screw.

Regards Peter.

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So the question is : Has this distributor EVER worked with this engine?

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Thanks Peter and Steve.

I think the rotor also needs a “wide” strip because it should still match the terminals in all positions, which can be advance and retard from vacuum and advance from centrifugal. And additionally, so room for the knurled screw ro make small adjustments.

I asked myself too if it ever had worked properly. I bought the car as a non-runner, part dismantled, and made the engine run for 1/2 hour or so before I dismantled it. It could be possible I did not assemble the dizzy correctly, will strip it and see if that clears the issue.

Regards,

Waldi

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Progress at least Waldi !

i suspect the distributor isnt right, and suggest careful comparison with you friends car or a known good setup

in 2015 i bought a ‘nearly finished project’ cb360 motorcycle

apparently the son had ‘lost interest’ in the project

turns out they had rewired the bike incorrectly, there are only two loom plugs which are identical and you giessed it, they had swapped them.

this gave the symptoms of the neutral light glowing madly and proportional to revs, whether the bike was in neutral or not !

i was rewiring anyway, going to Lithium battery and dedicated reg/rec, so spotted the error and the bike’s been great ever since.

If you want a replacement genuine PI distrib then i do have an old one, worked great on my car for 5 years until i bought a 123ignition distrib. It doesnt have pints in it as the car came with lumenition but otherwise its known to be good. Or buy the 123tune+ which is excellent.

steve

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Thanks Steve,

a comparison with my friends TR6 is what I will start with next. It may show the error.

Thanks for your offer for the dizzy, I appreciate that. One of my future plans it to convert to EFI, but have not decided on that yet, so ordering another dizzy is what I want to avoid at the moment.

Will keep you all posted on the progress.

Regards,

Waldi

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55 minutes ago, Waldi said:

Thanks Steve,

a comparison with my friends TR6 is what I will start with next. It may show the error.

Thanks for your offer for the dizzy, I appreciate that. One of my future plans it to convert to EFI, but have not decided on that yet, so ordering another dizzy is what I want to avoid at the moment.

Will keep you all posted on the progress.

Regards,

Waldi

You’re welcome to borrow the distrib for a while if that helps Waldi, see how you get on

 

steve

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Thanks for your generous offer Steve, I wish distance was not such an issue.

So I will do some "spannering" and comparison with my firends TR6 first.

Regards,

Waldi

 

 

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Result!

The knurled nut for fine adjustment rotates the baseplate relative to the body, but was limited in stroke. I removed the little circlip at the end of the rod so I was able to push the base plate further in the right direction. Attached picture shows the points just opening and the position of the rotor relative to the body (blue dot is #1). This is is with static timing set at 10 degrees btdc. There is sufficient overlap for the centrifugal advance.

I swapped the leads back in their original (correct) location.

She runs beautifully now, but overheated again after some 10 mins, radiator still cold, so think I have to vent (deburb) the cooling system.

No strange noises and good response to throttle. 7 barg (100 psi) oil pressure at 2500 rpm but oil not hot yet.

all looks very good, so far.

Thank you all again for the support, both technically and mentally:)

We all know this but what a great forum we have!

Have a good one.

Waldi

A23CFB3E-5BB4-4DF8-A1E0-23BC436CF2A8.jpeg

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I think my distributor drive gear is installed a tooth anti-clockwise from yours, Waldi. So mine sits as shown, and the tachometer cable just reaches without strain. Yours probably complies with Uncle Bentley; mine doesn't.

 

Cheers,

Tom

 

 

IMA 68 TR ALBUM COMPLETE 018.jpg

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Hi Tom,

your dizzy is in a better position ( literally), I do not like the bend rev cable I have but will see how it holds over time.

Regards,

Waldi

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Great to hear it’s running nicely Waldi

sort out the cooling issues and that’ll be a big step forwards

Tom, that is very shiny! 

Steve

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Waldi,

Check the thermostat isn't stuck. I had the same issue with hot engine and cold radiator after rebuild.

Colin

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Take it out and put in a pan of water on the stove and a thermometer will tell you straight away if and when it opens and closes.

Mick

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The thermostat is new and I tested it before installation in a pan of water. I did not properly vent the system, just filled her up and closed the cap, so probably it is my own fault.

Regards,

Waldi

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Update:

I removed the stat (it was a new 82 degr one with the hole in it) and tested again. Started opening at 80C, fully open at 95C, fully open is approx 10 mm or so, I’d say thats ok. But there was a lot of dirt in the system. During the rebuild I cleaned the water side of the block and the complete head with phosphoric acid and flushed with cold water until clean, but that did not remove all deposits apparently; well, the coolant at 100C did! Lesson learned...So I will have to clean the cooling system again before filling up with coolant. I have run the engine without a stat, it fired up immediately on all cilinders, a bit to my surprise, and the engine really runs very sweet, no tapping, knocking or whatsoever, so really pleased with the rebuild. 3 bar oil pressure at idle with oil at 90C.

Could not get the rebuilt GB in reverse, think the shifting mechanism is a bit stiff,  the gear stick did not want to go further to the right than 3+4. Any ideas? It worked ok on the test bench 1 year ago.

Regards,

Waldi

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Great to hear the engine is running well Waldi.

steve

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Waldi

Re the gear selection, check that the anti rattle plunger and spring haven't come out of their hole in the bottom of the gearlever and are stopping the gearlever moving across properly

Cheers

Rich

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run it without a stat and see what happens.  if a cold rad check the pump.

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Thank you all for your comments.

Hi Roy,
I did run without a thermostat, and then no issues. Maybe it was plugged or it was because I did not -refill the system during the first start. After cleaning, I will install the thermostat and see how it work then.

 

Regarding the reverse gear selection:
I called the person who overhauled my gearbox because we tested it on the bench together after he finished his good work and then all was fine then, now over a year ago. He told me that if you lift the gear box with the gear lever, the anti-rattle plunger may jump out (thanks Rich), and while he was talking me through how to fix this, he mentioned, just as a small comment, you have to lift the gear lever to get it in reverse...……:ph34r: Oemph, red face, oh oh oh I feel so dumb….. So nothing was wrong, actually.

Consider this as my contribution to the fun section on this forum:lol::lol:.
And no, I will not pull this post:)

 

Best regards,

Waldi

 

 

 

 

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The thermostat might have been air locked, I generally use the type of thermostat  which is fitted  a small hole and a captive ball to stop this. If I can't find one of these for a vehicle I drill a 2-3mm hole in the thermostat to bleed the air.

An air locked thermostat  doesn't feel the heat of the  the engine coolant and hence doesn't open.

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Hi Mike,

I thought about that. My new stat does have the hole with a little “rod” in there which acts as a check valve. I suspect it was closed by the debris but it could be it was closed by the pressure differential you create once the pump is running and then air could not easily escape, especially when dirt is “sealing” the little hole.

Will see if this is cured once the cooling system is entirely clean.

Regards,

Waldi

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9 hours ago, Waldi said:

Hi Mike,

I thought about that. My new stat does have the hole with a little “rod” in there which acts as a check valve. I suspect it was closed by the debris but it could be it was closed by the pressure differential you create once the pump is running and then air could not easily escape, especially when dirt is “sealing” the little hole.

Will see if this is cured once the cooling system is entirely clean.

Regards,

Waldi

I think the little valve is designed to vent air when the system is being filled then close when the pump operates. If you have a lot of debris in the radiator it is best cleaned out , if nothing else it will  block the tubes as you would know.

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