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Heater - sealed to plenum chamber or not


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Hi everybody,

to repair some cables I have got the heater out - good idea to have a closer look on it...

My question is: between the "fan box" and the plenum chamber there was a gap / no seal.

A previour owner tryed to get it seald with white acryl compound (?) but that did not work.

Does a seal make sence? Without seal the air gets faster warm because of air circulation?

Any ideas?

Ciao Marco

P1110760-b.JPG.7c7c4d7bae4b3073864c6dedfec62f61.JPG

 

Edited by Z320
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Well done for getting the heater out Marco.

 

The heater is normally (!) sealed with a foam circular seal (thick gasket I suppose).  These come up on eBay but I suppose the usual suppliers can source too.  Yes you need to seal it.

 

cheers

 

dave

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Hi Marco,

              as mentioned by Dave there should be a seal there. It does not need to be strong as there is little pressure on it.

A ring of foam rubber/sponge would suffice.

I've not seen one for sale by the main suppliers.

 

Roger

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Hi Marco,

yes, a seal will avoid by-passing, so more flow throught the radiator and less cold air by-passing it. Hence better heating. If the soft seals are NLA, soft cell foam would do, you can buy them with adhesive on one side. I think it is approx.10 mm high, make it small, like 10-15 mm, to avoid bending of the heater housing.

Waldi

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5 hours ago, RogerH said:

Not thick enough Roger Im afraid.

Stuart.

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I used this stuff for the heater on my GT6: https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1440/self-adhesive-black-sponge-strip. Alternatively this might work if the internal diameter suits: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Euroflo-By-Fluidmaster-1-1-2in-Washer-for-Close-Coupled-Toilet-Cisterns/p/150205.

Tim

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Alternatively go to your local building supplies store and buy some extra thick 13mm x 8mm foam black self adhesive weatherstrip and you will have more than enough to last you and your friends a lifetime. Or use the rest you don't use for  your house. Here in the UK there is a store called Screwfix - have a look at product code 40425 to see what I mean.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/stormguard-extra-thick-weatherstrip-black-3-5m/40425?_requestid=392872

Keith

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If it helps, you can see a detailed strip down of the heater and all the parts including the seal here: http://tr4a.weebly.com/smiths-heater-triumph-tr4a.html

Best

Paul.

 

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Thanks Paul for that link,

I also opened my heater box (which is in much better condition) to clean it, there was nearly no dust inside.

Nice to are the cables both white, according the wirering diagramm black and green,

and the heater hinselfs that must have been wraped with a soft foam tape, as mine also must have been.

Guess I have something suitabe anywhere.

Ciao / Cheers, Marco

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4 minutes ago, Z320 said:

Thanks Paul for that link,

I also opened my heater box (which is in much better condition) to clean it, there was nearly no dust inside.

Nice to are the cables both white, according the wirering diagramm black and green,

and the heater hinselfs that must have been wraped with a soft foam tape, as mine also must have been.

Guess I have something suitabe anywhere.

Ciao / Cheers, Marco

They always had white wires coming out from the heater, the little foam strips internally are well worth replacing as it makes the various positions for the flap more efficient.

Stuart.

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I took apart the heater matrix on an old leaky unit a while ago. The 2 end boxes of the radiator part get filled up with sediment it seems because the design is not very good. Would have been much better if Triumph had done away with the end boxes and the flattened soldered channels between the two and used a coil of copper pipe instead inside the fins. Then it wouldn't silt up at the ends and resistance to flow would have been less resulting in a better unit. Also because of no soldered joints less likely to spring a leak. If I get a free week or two (unlikely) I might try to build a better heat exchanger using the fins from the old unit and some 10mm pipe with 15mm connectors to the heater pipes. If I succeed I will post the results.

Keith

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Hi Stuart,

I always had a annoying rattle noice in some positions of the flap.....any idea?

 

Hi Kieth,

safe your time - we never any problem with the heater, I can make it hot until our legs and feet glow.

Anyway I flashed the heater with 4 bar waterpressure from the garden tap and indeed a lot of sediment came out.

Ciao / Cheers, Marco

 

Edited by Z320
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5 minutes ago, Z320 said:

Hi Stuart,

I always had a annoying rattle noice in some positions of the flap.....any idea?

Ciao / Cheers, Marco

 

The rods on each end of the flap where they go through the main body of the heater are quite loose in the holes so it could be that.

Stuart.

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The heater hinself I wraped with dry wall making tape, sorry - no photo.

The seal I made as told from a semi soft foam, the flap I gave some more weight by flexible edge trim.

That also made the gap between flap and housing smaller, if it does not stand the heat it is easy to remove.

 P1110769-b.JPG.1b79821892a40668c35fbe797696dba1.JPG P1110763-b.JPG.7c5135cbe63c8811ba7bba638e7ee850.JPG

Ready to fit on the car, waiting for new hoses.

Edited by Z320
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