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InfinityJon

And so it begins.....

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Well today was a journey of doom!

when you discover that 90% of your rear valance is filler and Ali patch panels......joy!

Don’t care what you say I ain’t going to be able to save that! The other parts you can’t see in the photos is the lower middle section that is riddled with rust. The upper section is also body filler in all the crucial places. It’s dead!

What’s the verdict on a James Paddock rear panel?

All wings now off.  Chipped all the under seal off the rear wheel arches and internal face of the rear wings. Boot lid stripped and removed. 

F382958C-7883-4966-8F3C-0389AFE41014.jpeg

4A780786-889B-4FE0-9C7B-A92D66110B30.jpeg

BE129A0C-715C-4D66-AC57-F74BC0EE8DB1.jpeg

6E118095-C4E2-4E23-BA14-2A72C5D97B6B.jpeg

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There was a nos rear panel on ebay last week, worth a search?

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Hi Jon 

Think your right its toast.

The inner valance is likely the same once you pull this one off so you might need both.

Andy

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James Paddocks gotta be better than the one you have! Shockingly bad repair with bondo.

Gareth

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11 minutes ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

James Paddocks gotta be better than the one you have! Shockingly bad repair with bondo.

Gareth

To be fair, visually from the outside it looked perfect and was clearly done by someone who had serious bondo skills.......  At least I will have some serious weight reduction with all the bondo gone. 

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5 minutes ago, InfinityJon said:

To be fair, visually from the outside it looked perfect and was clearly done by someone who had serious bondo skills.......  At least I will have some serious weight reduction with all the bondo gone. 

Amazes me the skill taken to do the bodge in the first place. At least you'll know it's done properly this time! 

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Spookily my rear was very similar, maybe repaired by the same guy, if it’s of any consolation the new repo panels fit rather well with little fettling. You should be able to save the top inner panel and replace both outer and inner valances. I drilled the spot welds from the outside helped to keep inner panel in one solid piece. Make a note of hole positions for badges and number plate light wires (early model).

Best of luck Mark.

 

 

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As Mark says, the replacement panels fit relatively well. A tip that I found useful when replacing the lower inner valance was to leave the whole top of the outer panel in place until the new lower inner is in. This ensures that the whole rear remains rigid and in the correct position (assuming it was in the correct position before :huh:)P1050042.thumb.JPG.242f3b6f80b4e885e2f1d65ba134bdd5.JPG

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Also, be sure to test fit rear wings and boot lid before final welding. I didn't, and the opening for the boot lid ended up slightly out of square.

Ed

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Inner and outer panels ordered. Hoping I can keep the structural panel as this looks ok from initial inspection. 

I really needed the late panel but it’s not been in stock for the last 9 months. So ordered the earlier one and will cut my own number plate light holes........unless someone tells me there is some other significant difference. The bloke at Padock’s said they were the same bar the number plate lights. 

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Going to start on the LHD to RHD conversion. Can anyone tell me where I can get the RHD steering column reinforcement panel from. 9FACB53A-C975-49FB-8C8D-D6AA8BD76B8A.thumb.jpeg.dc266466bae877536554d588d59ac987.jpegI can’t  see it listed on  the usual sites or its NCA. 

I recon I could cut the projection off and turn 180 degrees and weld on to a new back plate but if there is a panel available then why not. 

Or is the cut and shut the only option.?

Edited by InfinityJon

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I got mine from one of the TR suppliers that has stock of old parts TRGB I think it was, part was cut from a rhd bulkhead so needed cleaning up but fit perfect once done. 

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Reference dimensions taken. Deep breath and out with the spot weld drill and slitter. 

9028BBF9-79C4-4B1C-8E01-E9C8B193691B.thumb.jpeg.c895f20ad5078f0d1ceea2c9a1daaf8e.jpeg

Rear end off and now to repair the small rust patches before setting the inner and outer valance.

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Upper structural panel salvaged ready for rebuild. Using existing bumper mounts and original dimensions as reference, the trial fit of outer valance indicated a good fit. Reconstruction looks promising. 

 

 

Edited by InfinityJon

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Jon--good luck with this.  You seem to be in good shape on preparation.

I'll bet you've already thought of this, but there are some areas on the tub and inner and outer valances that will be all but inaccessible when everything is together.  Whatever you plan for rust prevention, it might be wise to do it before assembly.  I think the factory didn't bother, and that's why it is often a problem area.

Ed

Edited by ed_h

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3 minutes ago, ed_h said:

 

I'll bet you've already thought of this, but there are some areas on the tub and inner and outer valances that will be all but inaccessible when everything is together.  Whatever you plan for rust prevention, it might be wise to do it before assembly.  I think the factory didn't bother, and that's why it is often a problem area.

Ed

Yes Ed, There are quite a few hidden sandwiched flanges. So my next job is to cut out and replace the eaten areas. The trick will be not cutting away too much to material and loosing my reference points and structure. 

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FWIW for inaccessible box sections that you cant get too with paint etc after building paint them with Bondarust as it will withstand quite a lot of heat.

Stuart.

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Cut out and replaces several section of the boot floor. 

44E737EF-A94D-4559-9624-F09CE304CE12.thumb.jpeg.6621bc7b03799956f2761ebb7c87add9.jpegSpot welded in the inner valance and structural panel. 

Test fitted the outer valance. All looking right. BC89815B-6DD5-43B5-8A39-03A6B72BEF96.thumb.jpeg.dda2e0de525f9a19d8fea19d1784ac88.jpeg

DA0B379B-0AE0-4BB0-B8A4-F9622AF7909F.thumb.jpeg.2f6d5829f3ae986b8155eba7e24687b6.jpegBefore I fit it all together, what is the black paint people paint on the inner panel surfaces that can’t  be seen and need protecting from the atmosphere?

Edited by InfinityJon

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That's looking great, on my rear panel where it sits next to the wings on the flat part where the lights go it's level below the light but is slightly in further in above the light both sides, how does yours look there? 

Gareth

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13 hours ago, InfinityJon said:

Cut out and replaces several section of the boot floor. 

44E737EF-A94D-4559-9624-F09CE304CE12.thumb.jpeg.6621bc7b03799956f2761ebb7c87add9.jpegSpot welded in the inner valance and structural panel. 

Test fitted the outer valance. All looking right. BC89815B-6DD5-43B5-8A39-03A6B72BEF96.thumb.jpeg.dda2e0de525f9a19d8fea19d1784ac88.jpeg

DA0B379B-0AE0-4BB0-B8A4-F9622AF7909F.thumb.jpeg.2f6d5829f3ae986b8155eba7e24687b6.jpegBefore I fit it all together, what is the black paint people paint on the inner panel surfaces that can’t  be seen and need protecting from the atmosphere?

I just use Bondarust for inner sections as it protects and will stand a lot of heat from welding, Use weldthrough primer on the joins

Stuart.

 

Marks TR5 229.jpg

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Looking good Jon.

Apologies to hijack your thread but I'm in the same position with the inner/outer valences removed. The top inner is in good nick but the lower is toast and the outer was replaced by the PO but simply tacked on with just three spot welds to the bottom, two to the sides and four to the top so it more or less fell off! The shell is off the chassis and with a lot of deep rust pitting to the boot floor and the drivers side; side boot floor panel around the bracket is also badly pitted/thin.

So I'm thinking; replace the whole boot floor and side panel first but without a spot welder it will be a pain anyone any pearls of wisdom and could stich welds replace the hundreds of spot welds?

Andy 

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Hi Andy,

I replaced my boot floor, both sides and the lower inner valance and outer valance using plug welds. Worked very well.

P1040388.thumb.JPG.ec737ca02f1dba5fecf2c8b14cff0b26.JPG

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Drill an 8mm hole for your plug weld and make sure you penetrate to the rear panel through the hole properly.

Stuart.

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You can buy a ferrule (hope that is the correct word, I mean the bush at the end of your torch where the weld filler and gas exits) for a MAG (CO2) welder for making nice plugwelds. With that you push your torch against the metal. They are cheap too.

Waldi

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Thanks both.

Done loads of plug welds already the thought of hundreds more just put me off a bit. I've seen the attachment for Euro torch but my mig is a Clarke 135T got me thinking if I could make a copper attachment/stand off.

Andy 

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Hi Andy,

that should not be too difficult, it has just a couple of protruting sections for the distance and gas to escape (flow).

Waldi

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