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InfinityJon

And so it begins.....

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2 hours ago, InfinityJon said:

Could someone post me the same shot as the one below showing the correct wing to valance alignment please. Particularly interested in the pointbthe headlight circle joins the shape of the front valance. Should there be a gap between the headlight and the valance? And if so how much.  As far as I can tell, either my front valance needs to go up of the wings need to sit lower on the inner wings. 

I suspect it’s a bit of both as the front end has been out of shape. 

BTW I can’t tell from the drivers side as the critical part of this wing is rusted away and is no more!

ED65EAE8-CB6D-4536-9963-DEA69F4D4FE7.jpeg

Hi John

Same issue for me if the wing lines up with the door and bonnet then the valance needs to go up to round the circle. I ended up slitting the valance circle from the top which allowed me to push the valance up and back.

Andy

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I had to do quite a bit of adjustment on this one to get it all to line up properly

Stuart.

 

Tonys TR6 628.JPG

Tonys TR6 627.JPG

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I think after half a day of cut weld beat repeat, I think the near side is aligned and sorted. 

The valance was pretty much flat and had no shape and as shown before, the headlights did not fit the valance. 

I lost count of how many times the wing went on and off......

Valance now has all the correct shapes and all the kinks have been removed  still needs a gentle tickle with the shape tools but we are on the right side of correct  

offside next. 

1FAD57CF-B12F-41FE-826A-F670E7552748.jpeg

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Good work, looks to be a nice fit now. Keep up the good work. 

Gareth

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Today was the rear Quarter. 

A dig around with my screwdriver showed that the Filler boys had been at it and just covered up a few “issues”. Think I can salvage  the wing. 

Question:  surface rust- do I just wire brush this off and rust kill it with a paint on?  Obviously if any area has bee eaten then cut out and replace. 

I think generally it’s still all positive and in good nick. 

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Perhaps you can locate & purchase a right rear replacement wing that is solid and in good shape. If you can find a low cost one.

All that filler is not good, as well as the metal that has disappeared.

The rear valance looks fixable.

Edited by Sapphire72

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No connection but is this a possibility ?

 

TRIUMPH TR6 REAR WING USED BUT MINT https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153455863885

h

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Dug out all the filler and thought I would have my first attempt at fabricating patch panels to replace the filler and rust. 

Thought I would start with the most complicated, a compound curve!! With the theory that if I could not do it I have not wasted too much time. 

Think I nailed it. So went on to do the rest of the panel. Bar a little further dressing and fettling I think I have salvaged the wing. 

A good day!

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AA7051D8-FB77-4FBF-AA11-0EE5D0B00C3A.jpeg

Edited by InfinityJon

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Nice work.

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That's some great fabrication, looking forward to your next repair.

Gareth

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Very good job, Jon.  With a will there's a way.

One less wing in the landfill.

Ed

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6 hours ago, SeanF said:

Nice job. Are you using your bonnet as a work bench? :huh:

No only to rest the panel on as it was behind my vice and dolly setup and easy to turn around to keep trying the patch. Welding and fringing was done away from the car.

Not to stressed about scratches as it’s all  having new paint

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A flap disk works well in the areas you can get to.

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58 minutes ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

A flap disk works well in the areas you can get to.

Clean it back to bright steel or just remove the rust surface so it’s brown and black with some bright new metal showing through?  I assume paint on rust killer and prime. 

Stupid question but does rust that never gets wet continue to rot?  I’m thinking of the deep corners you can’t get to with anything but has light surface rust. 

I know I could get the car dipped but I look at the dipping cost and say I could be spending that on the engine build. Plus I can’t guarantee all the car will return!

Edited by InfinityJon

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If air can contact the rusted surface it will continue rusting, that's the purpose of the paint on "rust converters" which coat the rust and leave a suitable surface finish for painting, stopping the oxygen supply.

With your investment in the car as regards effort and hoped for end result dipping it is a no brainer, you can't replicate the effort needed to get anywhere near the same result as dipping. If you worry about the dipping solution leeching out afterwards (sometimes reported) pyrolise the car (heat it and burn the paint and underseal off, and then dip it) good results reported. As for cost try charging your effort out at even a lowly £40 an hour (and my time is worth twice that) and the mechanised stripping becomes much more attractive. It will take you a couple of years anyway so time to recoup funds to waste  spend on refurbing the mechanics.

Mick Richards

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On anything i cared about, I would never paint over any rust if I could possibly help it.

My method of choice is usually sand blasting.

Ed

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47 minutes ago, InfinityJon said:

Clean it back to bright steel or just remove the rust surface so it’s brown and black with some bright new metal showing through?  I assume paint on rust killer and prime. 

Stupid question but does rust that never gets wet continue to rot?  I’m thinking of the deep corners you can’t get to with anything but has light surface rust. 

I know I could get the car dipped but I look at the dipping cost and say I could be spending that on the engine build. Plus I can’t guarantee all the car will return!

To bright clean metal, some areas, the tight corners you mention you can you do some localised blasting? You could try the rust treatment in those area's also. The more you stop the air getting to it the less it can rust. 

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I had my tub grit blasted and then epoxy primed.

not cheap over-here, but saved me from all the hard labor and dirt in my garage.

Waldi

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14 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

If air can contact the rusted surface it will continue rusting, that's the purpose of the paint on "rust converters" which coat the rust and leave a suitable surface finish for painting, stopping the oxygen supply.

With your investment in the car as regards effort and hoped for end result dipping it is a no brainer, you can't replicate the effort needed to get anywhere near the same result as dipping. If you worry about the dipping solution leeching out afterwards (sometimes reported) pyrolise the car (heat it and burn the paint and underseal off, and then dip it) good results reported. As for cost try charging your effort out at even a lowly £40 an hour (and my time is worth twice that) and the mechanised stripping becomes much more attractive. It will take you a couple of years anyway so time to recoup funds to waste  spend on refurbing the mechanics.

Mick Richards

I have stopped having dipping done now as we`ve had too many problems with residues and leeching.Gone back to blasting.

Stuart.

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Agree with Stuarts comment. I was really interested in dipping until the body shop i use said no and showed me an e type they had that had been in their workshop for a few months awaiting a body part.

There were clear signs of residue weeping from the seems, sort of rust colour. This had been dip primed at the time. So they also now only use blasting my a very careful man.

 

Roy

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When I did my TR3a project I used a combination of media blasting in the driveway and various abrasive disks in the grinder. I used primer to discourage the panels rusting during the multi-year project. My one regret is that after doing all the sheet  metal work I did not have the whole tub media blasted at a pro shop. Instead I scuffed up the primer and we re-shot the tub with primer, color etc. It looks fine but the paint on the tub is very prone to chipping as the old base primer was too hard to be be painted over.

I would do the repairs and then get the tub blasted.

Stan

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