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And so it begins.....

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Good update. So is the bearing cap/journal not damaged if the end float caused that piston scoring? 


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In answer to your question yes mine was restored 26 years ago now and has been used in all weathers and Im no polisher, the chassis and underside which was done the same way as I always do them as ill

Day 6: Good progress this weekend.  All the dash out and steering column. Dash metalwork removed and the heater matrix out.  Wind screen lifted to remove dash pad. And windscreen and fr

Front end all stripped and waiting for sand blasting. Passenger side is a pile of bits while drivers side has been mostly blasted and waiting in temporary  bondarust for a quick re blast and two coats

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going to need to have a good look as I would expect damage to be present on all pistons when the crank worked its way to the front of the engine As they all move together. I did not find any debris in the sump so I don’t think the marks are caused by metal particles. 


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On 26 April 2020 at 5:46 PM, InfinityJon said:


flywheel- is it normal for the ring gear to be somewhat pissed on the flywheel?  100% the flywheel is not buckled. 






No, the ring gear should be on squarely to the shoulder of the flywheel  - as stated above.

I've seen a 6cyl Triumph engine with the ring gear knocked completely off the flywheel in service. Made re-starting a bit of a challenge and it rattled a lot before being turned off.

Looks like you found yours before that happened.

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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On 1/8/2019 at 8:41 PM, InfinityJon said:

Hi Crops

Got the books thanks and thanks for the offer of advice I’m sure I will be need some along the way.

I will be swapping to RHD - should be interesting.

Next job it to sort the tappets and get shot of the us emissions gear while I continue to strip the car.


Hi Jon, firstly congratulations, I love the TR6 in any color, but blue (by far) the most. Secondly, I’m a bit jealous, I would love to do what you are doing, but I’m not sure I have the ‘know how’. Thirdly, I have the tappet issue, I have tried on three occasions (including with click and adjust) to set the clearances, but it makes no difference. Otherwise it’s all fine and so I am thinking next year to do some replacing of rocker gear. Let us know how you resolve, I might be missing something.

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I had that exact plug start leaking last year. When engine running, it leaked quite bad. The plug comes as a bar that you thread in and break off, then peen it over.  I re-peened it and RTV sealed it. So far, so good.  Would have hated to have to replace it in-situ.



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11 hours ago, InfinityJon said:

Why was it there? Was it an option? Something else fitted there? Would seam better to fit a flanged bolt and dowty seal. 

Good question.  I Locktighted an adaptor in there so it now takes a 1/4" pipe plug like all the other plugs.



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  • 2 months later...

Just picked up my machined engine components from DY engine services in Temple Cloud Bristol. 

What a setup.  
At the end of a farmyard is a small door in the end of a shed.....what lies behind is amazing. 

This bloke has it all and not a Cnc in sight. 

Room after room of machines with vast quantities of engines being machined and rebuilt. 

I had Dave do the following. 
Remove all plugs, clean, dip and boil, de rust all engine components

aqua blast all parts

deck the block and 30thou rebore

full head job - new valves guides and seats

skim down to 3.400inch - taking off over 3mm

Crank clean and grind 10thou

flywheel skim and ring gear removed

rocker gear dipped and stripped

check, clean and prep conrods


The attention to detail and communication was first rate. Can’t recommend him enough.

all components supplied back to me bagged and boxed  all castings covered in protective oil bagged and cling wrapped.  Pictures to follow.







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  • 1 month later...
On 11/25/2019 at 9:52 PM, InfinityJon said:

what’s the deal with Carbs?  Can I change the engine to triple Webber’s?  This is a CF US engine. Who do I talk to, what do I need to do. Do I need a New head?  I obviously need a new inlet Manifold. I also assume I need New fuel pump  etc. 

If I can do a triple set up,  do I need three Weber DCOE 40. Any other spec details?

Hi Jon

Been reading this thread with interest. I have a 69 US 6 brought back to the UK by Pete Fenlon. He did a body off restoration and converted her to right hand drive. He also fitted her with a J Type overdrive. Another project (TR250) took his fancy and I managed to persuade him to part with it nearly finished.

The Engine was rebuilt with a replacement head (later wide port) and the original inlet manifold (narrow port!) and Stromberg Carbs put on to get it through an MOT. I then drove it from Manchester to Southend on Sea (fingers and everything else crossed).

I finished and tidied the bodywork and had the outside resprayed. The engine compartment and boot were left original as although a bit scruffy was in excellent condition.

I replaced the inlet manifold with a later version (wide port) and fitted a pair of Strombergs from an 80s V8 Range Rover. New needles, electronic ignition and a bit of fettling got 122 BHP at the flywheel which I was quite pleased with.

An excellent Tour of France, incorporating the Race of the Ramparts at Angoleme in 2019 convinced me that I needed to change the Diff from 3.7 to 3.45. With thanks to Richard Crewe Read and Pete Buckles, I fitted this in October 2019 and looked forward to Touring and Shows in 2020. Well Covid put paid to that idea!  This is when the thought of upping the power of the 6 crossed my mind. B)

When having the car on a rolling road one of the comments I took note of " I should ditch that exhaust manifold, if I were you and fit a nice extractor one!" I looked at a number of exhaust options and an extractor manifold was looking overly expensive until I came across a 2 piece Bastuck sports system 6>3>1 back into 2 to connect up with the existing stainless back pipes. for under 400 Euros! plus another 35 for shipping. I was very impressed with the quality of the manufacture and the excellent fit.

I have purchased an Triple Weber inlet manifold from Bastuck on the strength of the quality of their exhaust system and I am not disappointed. A very robust unit nicely cast with smooth linkages for each carb, although I swapped these for rose joints rather than the ball ended ones supplied.

I managed to acquire 3 DCOE 40s on this site and have rebuilt them myself. I am now moving the Clutch Master cylinder to the top of the baulk-head, to give the carbs room. I am initially going to run the carbs off the mechanical fuel pump. I will not be running flat out for any length of time and don't fancy the faff of fitting a fuel pump.

I haven't run it up yet :( and if it fails miserably, I'll probably go down the EFI route :huh:

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On 10/10/2020 at 4:32 PM, InfinityJon said:

Rocker arms - Are these Scrap?




Hi John,

the depression is not exactly wear but where the case hardened surface has been pushed back into the softer parent material.

When regrinding to remove the ridges do not grind the original seat area where the valve stem sat.



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  • 2 weeks later...

The engine build continues......

Last piston and I’ve snapped a piston ring. 
Have I got to buy a complete new set or does anyone know where I can get a plus 30 set for a single piston?

Head rebuilt with new springs (yellow stripe), rocker shaft and valve stem seals (O ring type as I have double springs). 

I have now got a fast road Cam and new cam followers so as per the Moss book, I have removed the base collar from the inner spring. Is this correct?

New oil pump on the engine block. 





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I had the broken ring issue just a few days ago. I called the vendor I bought the rings from.  They had no broken sets.

I ended up calling the manufacturer of the rings (Grant, in my case), and i have one on the way now.


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1 hour ago, ed_h said:

I had the broken ring issue just a few days ago. I called the vendor I bought the rings from.  They had no broken sets.

I ended up calling the manufacturer of the rings (Grant, in my case), and i have one on the way now.


Cheers Ed, mine are Grant via Moss. 

I’ll give them a ring. 

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  • 2 months later...

Cam question 

 have purchased a Moss fast road type 83 cam... or so I believe. The guy I purchased it from assures me it’s a type 83 and confirmed it came from Moss on the following part number TT10405N. He had it from new and that was what was on the box.it’s  only done  50miles so new. Said it was not suited to a US spec engine.

I used the old cam buckets on top of the new followers to measure the lift. however, when I measure the lift it measures 0.293thou which is the lift for a Moss type 89 cam.  This throws up lots of questions as the install angle is 103 degrees for a type 83 and 106 degrees for a type 89. 
What do I set the install angle at?CE8A8F48-9F90-4150-B641-385B9780A7C7.thumb.jpeg.b86c894bc4a8f7dffeb73be3a43d659b.jpeg

can I identify a cam by lift alone?  How much difference does 3 degrees make?  

any pointers?



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Hi Jon,

It looks like you have spent a lot of time and energy on this rebuild and it looks great. I would bite the bullet and buy a new cam. If there are any issues it’s head off and cam out. You can pick up a new fast road cam from Newman’s for £200, so not too much money. I did the same as you and found the cam had run out and caused an irritating ticking noise. Never again.

If not, you need to check every lobe. Ideally between centres, off the car.


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Do you have the full profile specs for the cam? If so, it's easy enough to measure the profile with the setup you have. You should be able to get accurate enough just doing one inlet & one exhaust lobe, in the car. Then just compare and you'll know which it is.

BTW, I gather it's possible to royally stuff a cam if it's not run in carefully. If you're not sure that's the case (and 50 miles is enough) then maybe think about a known-good one.


Edited by JohnC
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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, found some photos of the cam I took before I installed it. I quizzed the seller and was assured it was a fast road cam is just installed it. Wish I’d checked the numbers now. 

if the numbers tie up with what I think, it’s a race cam. However, the lift is still wrong. 

what do other people think?

if it’s a race cam, i assume my options are to sell it and buy a newmans fast road cam. 
so this will be up for sale. 

Will it run in a road car? Never going to hit race revs. Never going to race it. 

advise please. 





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If it's a race cam it doesn't know whether it's on a track or a public road, however it does know what revs it's designed to work at, and that will likely be at least 1000-1500 revs more across the gearbox. That means it's likely to be horrible on the roads, either flat on certain revs with much less torque or "hunting" seeking more revs all these are normally helped by using at least 1 gear less in use but bombarding your ears with the increased revs forced to be used, ...the missus will hate it. 

I would buy a new camshaft from a trusted supplier of the sort you wish to use, if you go for a fast road spec I would favour using a TR supplier who often gets involved with competition and knows the difference between that and fast road spec cams. We are lucky in the uk to have a good number of competition based suppliers who can sell you what you need.

Mick Richards

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