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InfinityJon

And so it begins.....

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The Tr6 has finally made it back from Virginia and now the restoration can begin. 

Initial “in the dark”inspection with a torch reveals solid floors, very little rust and basically a solid body. Yet to inspect the chassis but from what I can see, mostly good. 

Engine is noisy, no clunks but really noisy tappets. Carbs have a mind of their own and the engine runs hot in the short time I had it running. 

Fair amount of fuel around the engine bay so expect the pipe work to be perished. Didn’t run long as I didn’t want a bonfire having only just got her. 

Full examination on the weekend with daylight and fire extinguisher lol. 

First impressions..... could be a lot worse considering it was a picture purchase. 

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Edited by InfinityJon
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Congratulations on your new toy Jon. Very exciting. Best of luck with getting her on the road. Not sure if you posted a pic. I can see a message at the bottom of your post saying "please wait while image is uploading" but the image never comes.

Cheers,

Sean

Edit. Can see the pic now. looks great.

Edited by SeanF

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Day one: 

after a hoover and airline clean I made a start on the cockpit and boot.

Carpets and seats out - so it’s obviously had a respray (badly - if it doesn’t move, spray it). And it’s got a seconary Ali bodge floors. What’s was underneath was not as bad as it could have been. But still it will be probably new floors. Small amount of rust in footwell corners and a bit of surface rust but not much else. I assume the red I can see is the original red lead primer from the factory. A and B posts are solid and cils look solid. 

Overdrive has an oil leak.  

Boot floor solid with only surface rust so all good there. 

Can anyone shed light on engine number and chassis number. Are they matching?

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Hi

Welcome to the world of TR6s!

I did the same about 2 years ago and shipped a TR blind from the US.  I constantly find surprises with mine as I work on it and I think this is the fun of it.  Overall the car you got looks solid and that is what matters.

Enjoy the ride!

Rich

 

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Well done mate.  At least the od has oil in it.  

 

Blue is the colour  (And if I could post an emoji then it would have a smiling face).

cheers

 

dave

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15 minutes ago, aardvark said:

 (And if I could post an emoji then it would have a smiling face).

cheers

 

dave

Emoji

should be found here. 

H

036AF432-BE42-4FB5-AEA4-69647AAD5213.jpeg

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53 minutes ago, AarhusTr6 said:

Hi

Welcome to the world of TR6s!

I did the same about 2 years ago and shipped a TR blind from the US.  I constantly find surprises with mine as I work on it and I think this is the fun of it.  Overall the car you got looks solid and that is what matters.

Enjoy the ride!

Rich

 

I figured that if it’s in for a complete rebuild then seeing it in person was not that essential. I got the seller to send me lots of photos and videos so at least I could make a decision on the images. 

I am sure I will uncover some horrors but if man built it, man can repair it/ replace it (with in reason). 

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35 minutes ago, aardvark said:

Well done mate.  At least the od has oil in it.  

 

Blue is the colour  (And if I could post an emoji then it would have a smiling face).

cheers

 

dave

It’s not the original blue. I think the the original colour spec is Tahiti blue. Which I have found under the poorly masked areas. Have not decided yet on colour. 

It’s obviously had a restoration attempt or more likely a patch up. But I think it is solid. 

I think the OD and gearbox will be coming apart in due course. 

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Congrats, looks like it it is in pretty good shape and even has a factory overdrive, very unusual for a USA TR6. Its a 76 TR6, did it have the emissions air pump ?

Stan

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Yes, Tahiti Blue (Paint Code 146) with Beige (Trim 74) interior was what the Commission Plate offers.

The floors are both original and can be patched- they are much too nice to replace.

Needs a lot of work, but it doesn't look horrendous.

A wire brush attachment to an electric drill applied to those rusty areas will let you know the scope of patches needed. (Wear eye protection.)

Post some engine bay pics when you have a few moments. How are the door gaps? The Trailing Arm section of the chassis? The sills?

Tahiti Blue is a desirable color, somewhat rare.

Walt

Edited by Sapphire72

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Hi

Of course its up to you, but most of us rip out all the US emission's stuff from the car, they do nothing except inhibit and look ugly.  There is loads on the forums on it.

Rich

 

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Has an air pump but it’s not connected with a fan belt and seized I will be stripping that lot out. I’ll read up on what I have to do to remove it. 

Also need to remove the lovely US bumper rubbers.

 

 

 

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20 hours ago, Sapphire72 said:

 

Post some engine bay pics when you have a few moments. How are the door gaps? The Trailing Arm section of the chassis? The sills?



Engine bay and sills for you

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A high pressure water spray would clean a lot of that engine bay crud away.

Are you thinking of separating the tub & chassis for a complete restore?

Or, a simpler cut out rust, weld in new steel and respray the paint?

I guess that you need to examine the chassis carefully for corrosion, that may determine which way to proceed.

You could perform a compression check to see what condition the engine is in, maybe it just needs some tuning. Or, maybe more. Adjust those valves first.

A leaky gearbox can still be refilled to get the Over Drive working. That is a real nice feature, btw.

Get yourself a good Triumph service manual. You have got a long adventure ahead of you.  :)

Cheers, Walt

 

 

 

Edited by Sapphire72

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6 minutes ago, Sapphire72 said:

A high pressure water spray would clean a lot of that engine bay crud away.

Are you thinking of separating the tub & chassis for a complete restore?

Or, a simpler cut out rust, weld in new steel and respray the paint?

I guess that you need to examine the chassis carefully for corrosion, that may determine which way to proceed.

You could perform a compression check to see what condition the engine is in, maybe it just needs some tuning. Or, maybe more. Adjust those valves first.

A leaky gearbox can still be refilled to get the Over Drive working. That is a real nice feature, btw.

Get yourself a good Triumph service manual. You have got a long adventure ahead of you.  :)

 

 

 

I am going to separate the tub and chassis.

Plan on full engine and box rebuild but want to get the engine running the best it can be for I do this. Will be doing a compression test.

Do you recommend the brown repair and operation service book?  Need one that has the chassis dimensions in it. 

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Looks like most if not all of the narrow tubing emissions stuff has already been removed. The EGR valve likely doesnt even work and you can blank that off. Keep the lock nut however, you will need it. The alternator and brackets are different for the air pump version and it is probably easier to replace the exhaust manifold rather than try and remove and block off the air lines.

Lots of options for putting back the missing HP.

Stan

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1 hour ago, InfinityJon said:

Do you recommend the brown repair and operation service book?   

Yes.

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The commission number and the engine numbers look plausible. A heritage certificate would confirm it though and give you a bit more detail of when and where it was shipped.

Dont forget the TR6 workshop (Bentley) manual and color wiring diagrams are all freely available in pdf format from various sources.

Stan

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Hi Jon, Welcome to a US import TR6. Ive done one of these and converted it to RHD,  last year I ended up fitting SU carbs as the fixed jet strongberg carbs made my engine run rich after removing the US emission components, food for thought if you have this problem. I have a book How to restore TRIUMPH TR5/250 AND TR6 by Roger Williams which gives some good advice. If you need any advice I may have come across your problem message me through the forum.

My email; dcropley@sky.com

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12 minutes ago, crops said:

Hi Jon, Welcome to a US import TR6. Ive done one of these and converted it to RHD,  last year I ended up fitting SU carbs as the fixed jet strongberg carbs made my engine run rich after removing the US emission components, food for thought if you have this problem. I have a book How to restore TRIUMPH TR5/250 AND TR6 by Roger Williams which gives some good advice. If you need any advice I may have come across your problem message me through the forum.

My email; dcropley@sky.com

Hi Crops

Got the books thanks and thanks for the offer of advice I’m sure I will be need some along the way.

I will be swapping to RHD - should be interesting.

Next job it to sort the tappets and get shot of the us emissions gear while I continue to strip the car.

 

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Re your post Sunday 7.05 "Can anyone shed light on engine number and chassis number. Are they matching?"

On checking on authenticity of my purchase prior to getting a full heritage cert I used the British Motor Museum little known 'Web Research Request'.  Find it under Info services. Simple question was to ask for engine and body number when I provided the commission number.   £6 gets an email response in 24hrs.

All the best for your restoration. I'm currently doing a TR4A ex USA and as part of it some way through conversion to RHDrive. All well so far. Soon to drop the body back on the chassis. That should be interesting and a test of what I've done so far.

David B

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Jon,  the engine is original to the car the number being within a few of other TR6 with commission numbers either side of yours. For info it was built on the 25th June 1976 so very close to the end of production. If it was mine I would repaint in the original Tahiti Blue.

Best of luck

cheers

Derek

 

 

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Derek,

I'm new to this.  Where is that info available ??  David B

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