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In answer to your question yes mine was restored 26 years ago now and has been used in all weathers and Im no polisher, the chassis and underside which was done the same way as I always do them as ill

Day 6: Good progress this weekend.  All the dash out and steering column. Dash metalwork removed and the heater matrix out.  Wind screen lifted to remove dash pad. And windscreen and fr

Front end all stripped and waiting for sand blasting. Passenger side is a pile of bits while drivers side has been mostly blasted and waiting in temporary  bondarust for a quick re blast and two coats

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9 hours ago, InfinityJon said:

Engine looking more engine like. 
 

Question? Is the rocker oil feed in the right port on the block?

F0CBEA21-8AE9-4DCC-AEFA-E0F59C464A2B.jpeg

D9B92BF7-3F7F-4E18-8E55-A94E3257F3F0.jpeg

FA62AE70-C22D-4F60-8411-54861F23B4F4.jpeg

No such thing as the right port, it’s unnecessary so your better off without 

Stuart

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7 hours ago, InfinityJon said:

On the right lines?

image.jpg

Yes,

FWIW I would add some extra re-enforcing fillets on your spring bridge to cope with the extra stress of those in spring shocks, Ive seen a lot of cracked bridges with those.

Stuart.

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12 hours ago, InfinityJon said:

These gussets you mean?image.thumb.jpeg.ba9f5578ba88ea3578b52ad209d02a82.jpeg

image.jpeg

No its the top that cracks, where the uprights meet it among other places.

Stuart.

 

photo1328.jpg

Edited by stuart
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I know this one has type3 brackets for the shocks but look at how the spring bridge is properly re-enforced to take shock in spring fitting.

Stuart.

 

jeffstr5 115.jpg

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I had shock inside spring and found hairline cracking around the top of the spring mount. I had all the mounting supports brackets which I had welded on. Removed it all and welded the hairline cracks up and went back to lever arms. Worked for me and the arc was back  as designed by Triumph with suspension all working as intended.

As I say worked for me.

Regards Harry 

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On 7/27/2021 at 9:24 AM, stuart said:

No its the top that cracks, where the uprights meet it among other places.

Stuart.

photo1328.jpg

In support of Stuart's advice, this is how my own chassis now has triangular gussets to brace those cantilevered spring cups from the vertical legs  . . .

  IMG_2144as.jpg.ab00413a929897ed291d29b4d8e4ea1c.jpg 

Pete

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2 minutes ago, Bfg said:

In support of Stuart's advice, this is how my own chassis now has triangular gussets to brace those cantilevered spring cups from the vertical legs  . . .

  IMG_2144as.jpg.ab00413a929897ed291d29b4d8e4ea1c.jpg 

Pete

With standard spring /shock setup thats fine but for in spring shock application it would just split again at the outside end of that gusset, it really needs a different approach to be certain.

Stuart.

 

jeffstr5 115 - Copy.jpg

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On 7/27/2021 at 9:30 AM, stuart said:

I know this one has type3 brackets for the shocks but look at how the spring bridge is properly re-enforced to take shock in spring fitting.

Stuart.

 

jeffstr5 115.jpg

Might I ask you Stuart..  What is you're opinion of this configuration of damper. ?   

I cannot make out whether the black triangular shape seen behind this damper is a bracket / bracing strap to tie the damper's top mounting down to the chassis.

Pete

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1 minute ago, Bfg said:

Might I ask you Stuart..  What is you're opinion of this configuration of damper. ?   

I cannot make out whether the black triangular shape seen behind this damper is a bracket / bracing strap to tie the damper's top mounting down to the chassis.

Pete

The type 3 setup consists of 3 pieces one large flat topped and gusseted plate in 3mm steel that is bolted to the original shock absorber bridge and fits up to the underneath of the shell then a second triangular shaped box is bolted to that and the inner arch and then the final bracket is as you see bolted back through on the outside. I like it though some people dont.

Stuart.

 

jeffstr5 116.jpg

jeffstr5 117.jpg

jeffstr5 118.jpg

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5 minutes ago, stuart said:

With standard spring /shock setup thats fine but for in spring shock application it would just split again at the outside end of that gusset, it really needs a different approach to be certain.

Stuart.

 

jeffstr5 115 - Copy.jpg

yes I see now, Looking back at Jon's post I see he has the gussets similar to those on mine, but you're advocating the top bracket sitting on top of a triangular boxed in beam. Thanks.

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1 minute ago, Bfg said:

yes I see now, Looking back at Jon's post I see he has the gussets similar to those on mine, but you're advocating the top bracket sitting on top of a triangular boxed in beam. Thanks.

If you look carefully you will see that the whole of that spring bridge is made of much stronger steel, its a different chassis design to cope with all the stress that can be put through it.

Stuart.

 

jeffstr5 155.jpg

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4 minutes ago, stuart said:

The type 3 setup consists of 3 pieces one large flat topped and gusseted plate in 3mm steel that is bolted to the original shock absorber bridge and fits up to the underneath of the shell then a second triangular shaped box is bolted to that and the inner arch and then the final bracket is as you see bolted back through on the outside. I like it though some people dont.

Stuart.

 

jeffstr5 116.jpg

jeffstr5 117.jpg

jeffstr5 118.jpg

Thanks., that clarifies my query very nicely.  I've not seen that before but tying in to the original damper mounts makes a whole lot of sense.  Those I've seen bring the bracket outwards to under the arch and then run up behind the damper mounting bracket.  This saves the intrusion of those brackets inside the boot space, but the type-3 is possibly better in terms of load path. 

Much appreciated.

Pete

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12 minutes ago, Bfg said:

Thanks., that clarifies my query very nicely.  I've not seen that before but tying in to the original damper mounts makes a whole lot of sense.  Those I've seen bring the bracket outwards to under the arch and then run up behind the damper mounting bracket.  This saves the intrusion of those brackets inside the boot space, but the type-3 is possibly better in terms of load path. 

Much appreciated.

Pete

The type 3 is also better at coping with different offset wheels which is what its designed for.

TBH Im not a huge fan of tube shocks, the setup needs to be very well matched and thought out to work properly, I prefer uprated or adjustable levers

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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