tr graham Posted May 31, 2021 Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 John overdrive repair services in Sheffield graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted May 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 Engine looking more engine like. Question? Is the rocker oil feed in the right port on the block? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 31, 2021 Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 9 hours ago, InfinityJon said: Engine looking more engine like. Question? Is the rocker oil feed in the right port on the block? No such thing as the right port, it’s unnecessary so your better off without Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted June 1, 2021 Report Share Posted June 1, 2021 15 hours ago, stuart said: No such thing as the right port, it’s unnecessary so your better off without Stuart In other words: bin it!!! Bruce Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr graham Posted June 1, 2021 Report Share Posted June 1, 2021 Yep bin it . graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted July 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2021 Can anyone identify these? Can’t for the life of me remember where they go. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted July 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2021 Rear end looking more complete. Rebuilt drive shafts with new UJs and bearings. New boots. (One awaiting from Moss). Entire new brake components. Handbrake cables on their way. Only brake and fuel lines to run then the chassis is done…….I think! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blakey Posted July 25, 2021 Report Share Posted July 25, 2021 Handbrake extension levers at the brake drum. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted July 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2021 13 minutes ago, Blakey said: Handbrake extension levers at the brake drum. Paul Thanks. But can’t see where they go. Can’t find a diagram for them. Any pics? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CP26309 Posted July 25, 2021 Report Share Posted July 25, 2021 The aren't Triumph parts, they're after market items that increase the leverage of the standard (too) short levers that stick out of the rear drum backplates. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CP26309 Posted July 25, 2021 Report Share Posted July 25, 2021 If you've done all that amazing resto, you'll figure it out! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted July 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2021 1 hour ago, CP26309 said: If you've done all that amazing resto, you'll figure it out! On the right lines? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 25, 2021 Report Share Posted July 25, 2021 7 hours ago, InfinityJon said: On the right lines? Yes, FWIW I would add some extra re-enforcing fillets on your spring bridge to cope with the extra stress of those in spring shocks, Ive seen a lot of cracked bridges with those. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted July 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2021 These gussets you mean? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 27, 2021 Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 (edited) 12 hours ago, InfinityJon said: These gussets you mean? No its the top that cracks, where the uprights meet it among other places. Stuart. Edited July 27, 2021 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 27, 2021 Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 I know this one has type3 brackets for the shocks but look at how the spring bridge is properly re-enforced to take shock in spring fitting. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted July 27, 2021 Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 I had shock inside spring and found hairline cracking around the top of the spring mount. I had all the mounting supports brackets which I had welded on. Removed it all and welded the hairline cracks up and went back to lever arms. Worked for me and the arc was back as designed by Triumph with suspension all working as intended. As I say worked for me. Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted July 31, 2021 Report Share Posted July 31, 2021 On 7/27/2021 at 9:24 AM, stuart said: No its the top that cracks, where the uprights meet it among other places. Stuart. In support of Stuart's advice, this is how my own chassis now has triangular gussets to brace those cantilevered spring cups from the vertical legs . . . Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 31, 2021 Report Share Posted July 31, 2021 2 minutes ago, Bfg said: In support of Stuart's advice, this is how my own chassis now has triangular gussets to brace those cantilevered spring cups from the vertical legs . . . Pete With standard spring /shock setup thats fine but for in spring shock application it would just split again at the outside end of that gusset, it really needs a different approach to be certain. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted July 31, 2021 Report Share Posted July 31, 2021 On 7/27/2021 at 9:30 AM, stuart said: I know this one has type3 brackets for the shocks but look at how the spring bridge is properly re-enforced to take shock in spring fitting. Stuart. Might I ask you Stuart.. What is you're opinion of this configuration of damper. ? I cannot make out whether the black triangular shape seen behind this damper is a bracket / bracing strap to tie the damper's top mounting down to the chassis. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 31, 2021 Report Share Posted July 31, 2021 1 minute ago, Bfg said: Might I ask you Stuart.. What is you're opinion of this configuration of damper. ? I cannot make out whether the black triangular shape seen behind this damper is a bracket / bracing strap to tie the damper's top mounting down to the chassis. Pete The type 3 setup consists of 3 pieces one large flat topped and gusseted plate in 3mm steel that is bolted to the original shock absorber bridge and fits up to the underneath of the shell then a second triangular shaped box is bolted to that and the inner arch and then the final bracket is as you see bolted back through on the outside. I like it though some people dont. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted July 31, 2021 Report Share Posted July 31, 2021 5 minutes ago, stuart said: With standard spring /shock setup thats fine but for in spring shock application it would just split again at the outside end of that gusset, it really needs a different approach to be certain. Stuart. yes I see now, Looking back at Jon's post I see he has the gussets similar to those on mine, but you're advocating the top bracket sitting on top of a triangular boxed in beam. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 31, 2021 Report Share Posted July 31, 2021 1 minute ago, Bfg said: yes I see now, Looking back at Jon's post I see he has the gussets similar to those on mine, but you're advocating the top bracket sitting on top of a triangular boxed in beam. Thanks. If you look carefully you will see that the whole of that spring bridge is made of much stronger steel, its a different chassis design to cope with all the stress that can be put through it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted July 31, 2021 Report Share Posted July 31, 2021 4 minutes ago, stuart said: The type 3 setup consists of 3 pieces one large flat topped and gusseted plate in 3mm steel that is bolted to the original shock absorber bridge and fits up to the underneath of the shell then a second triangular shaped box is bolted to that and the inner arch and then the final bracket is as you see bolted back through on the outside. I like it though some people dont. Stuart. Thanks., that clarifies my query very nicely. I've not seen that before but tying in to the original damper mounts makes a whole lot of sense. Those I've seen bring the bracket outwards to under the arch and then run up behind the damper mounting bracket. This saves the intrusion of those brackets inside the boot space, but the type-3 is possibly better in terms of load path. Much appreciated. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 31, 2021 Report Share Posted July 31, 2021 (edited) 12 minutes ago, Bfg said: Thanks., that clarifies my query very nicely. I've not seen that before but tying in to the original damper mounts makes a whole lot of sense. Those I've seen bring the bracket outwards to under the arch and then run up behind the damper mounting bracket. This saves the intrusion of those brackets inside the boot space, but the type-3 is possibly better in terms of load path. Much appreciated. Pete The type 3 is also better at coping with different offset wheels which is what its designed for. TBH Im not a huge fan of tube shocks, the setup needs to be very well matched and thought out to work properly, I prefer uprated or adjustable levers Stuart. Edited July 31, 2021 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.