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And so it begins.....


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12 minutes ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

Looking good, what's next build up the chassis? Pretty satisfying to do all this and know it's right. 

Gareth

Hi Gareth,

yes time to get all the parts I have previously painted out of the cupboard and start the chassis rebuild. 
 

New hardware and poly bushes being installed. 
 

Need to order new springs and dampers along with deciding if to go down the Wilwood brake route or not. 
 

Not ordered new bearings either

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In answer to your question yes mine was restored 26 years ago now and has been used in all weathers and Im no polisher, the chassis and underside which was done the same way as I always do them as ill

Day 6: Good progress this weekend.  All the dash out and steering column. Dash metalwork removed and the heater matrix out.  Wind screen lifted to remove dash pad. And windscreen and fr

Front end all stripped and waiting for sand blasting. Passenger side is a pile of bits while drivers side has been mostly blasted and waiting in temporary  bondarust for a quick re blast and two coats

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Agree with Jochem.

It is important to thoroughly clean the VL and trunnion first, so all old grease and dirt are removed as grease can mask clearance/wear. After cleaning, install with just a bit of light oil for testing. If found ok, use  grease (some use oil) during final assembly, and once installed, use the grease gun via the nipple until grease escapes from the top, where the rubber seal is.

Waldi

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Turning thoughts to the engine,

what’s the deal with Carbs?  Can I change the engine to triple Webber’s?  This is a CF US engine. Who do I talk to, what do I need to do. Do I need a New head?  I obviously need a new inlet Manifold. I also assume I need New fuel pump  etc. 
 

If I can do a triple set up,  do I need three Weber DCOE 40. Any other spec details?

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  • 2 months later...

Like you do!

5B7695F5-748A-453C-AF7B-78EF5C704BC7.jpeg.4fb009bad861d3b1fe71621f52bc8d5c.jpegpainted the springs in XHT and baked it for an hour. 

the front suspension have all been put together “finger tight” to confirm fit. All new poly bushes and hardware. Next stage to insert springs and torque up nuts and bolts. 
 

New Steering rack and components in. Brakes and brake lines next.
 

Sorry to the purists but Callipers will be white with white rotor centres to match the springs. 
Suspension ironwork is a custom Dark grey. 

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Edited by InfinityJon
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Springs and shocks in both sides!79E4E3A2-AE36-4BC4-B17E-66DC6868D10A.thumb.jpeg.5ab3b373f54623084c611f8673d3aefe.jpegNeed to paint the two spacers that keep the steering arm away from the drop link then install the hubs. 
 

I have already installed the new bearings in the hubs and am awaiting new Callipers and disks. 
Drop links and front torsion bar ready to go in. 
That will conclude the front end!  yeh!

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Infinity I hope you didn't have any paint on the metal to metal mating surfaces of your suspension assembly--never have paint on those surfaces as you will have problems later on when after driving your car the paint surface will begin to break down due to vibration - maybe you knew this but not everyone does. 

Best wishes

Michael

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35 minutes ago, michaeldavis39 said:

Infinity I hope you didn't have any paint on the metal to metal mating surfaces of your suspension assembly--never have paint on those surfaces as you will have problems later on when after driving your car the paint surface will begin to break down due to vibration - maybe you knew this but not everyone does. 

Best wishes

Michael

No, mating surfaces clean and paint free. 

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On 1/27/2020 at 4:00 PM, InfinityJon said:

No I used por15 topcoat. (Don’t like topcoat prefer the gloss black chassis paint to use)And that’s brushed. 
The springs are sprayed with rattle tin. 

I'm a great fan of POR15. Did you use Top Coat over POR 15 Rust Preventive Paint or just the Top Coat onto bare metal? Finish looks good too for a brush.

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1 hour ago, Richard Pope said:

I'm a great fan of POR15. Did you use Top Coat over POR 15 Rust Preventive Paint or just the Top Coat onto bare metal? Finish looks good too for a brush.

Chassis painted in POR15 rust preventive. Other bits had topcoat over the top of POR15 RP. 
 

Im not as happy with the adhesion of the topcoat to the RP paint but we will have to see how it lasts. At least it has POR 15 under it. 
 

Really pleased with the brush finish. The paint flows well. 
 

Not tried Topcoat direct to metal. 

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On 1/26/2020 at 8:40 PM, InfinityJon said:

Like you do!

5B7695F5-748A-453C-AF7B-78EF5C704BC7.jpeg.4fb009bad861d3b1fe71621f52bc8d5c.jpegpainted the springs in XHT and baked it for an hour. 

the front suspension have all been put together “finger tight” to confirm fit. All new poly bushes and hardware. Next stage to insert springs and torque up nuts and bolts. 
 

New Steering rack and components in. Brakes and brake lines next.
 

Sorry to the purists but Callipers will be white with white rotor centres to match the springs. 
Suspension ironwork is a custom Dark grey. 

687C4947-0798-410F-BD6A-8B1027B586C5.jpeg

DEC1B8D4-2C23-4139-99E0-55E903659F84.jpeg

E50479FD-7078-43CB-931C-D2BC7962C5C8.jpeg

85AF8011-6FE1-4946-BB37-BD2212FFFE4D.jpeg

Hi Jon!

I do not think that it was a good idea to bake the spring for 1 hour in the oven, at 160, as you probably have soften the heat treatment( temper) of the spring wire?

Bruce.

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It will depend on the material. Annealing is done at a much higher temperature, depending on the alloy, I guess 580-620C region for this material. Low temperature annealing can start at 300C.

But items like bearings should not be heated beyond 130C or so. Not sure what the effects are on this spring material. 

Waldi

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On 2/3/2020 at 1:59 PM, InfinityJon said:

Chassis painted in POR15 rust preventive. Other bits had topcoat over the top of POR15 RP. 
 

Im not as happy with the adhesion of the topcoat to the RP paint but we will have to see how it lasts. At least it has POR 15 under it. 
 

Really pleased with the brush finish. The paint flows well. 
 

Not tried Topcoat direct to metal. 

I painted my Dax chassis in POR 15 RP the used their Chassis Black as top coat - sprayed both. The POR15 RP went on great. Chassis black came out rough (sandpaper feel) but really tough. The roughness may have been my spray gun with some water (condensation?) ingress somehow as some parts were great.

I thought you must have some second coat over POR15 RP anyway.

I'm planning on going with POR15 RP then POR Top Coat and brushing all of it on that's why I'm impressed with your final finish.

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  • 2 months later...

Diff and prop shaft stripped, painted and rebuilt. Bearings all spot on with no play. Really smooth running.  No pitting on the meshing faces. New shims Installed. And home made special tool to spread the diff casting. 
 

Output shafts out, new oils seals all round and painted ready for install. Again bearings spot on. 
 

Let’s hope it works as it should in drive!

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Questions:

flywheel- is it normal for the ring gear to be somewhat pissed on the flywheel?  100% the flywheel is not buckled. 
 

clutch cross shaft and release fork look like a bodge with lots of play.  Is this normal or a repair?
 

Release bearing and carrier looks and sounds shot. 

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Hi Jon

Here's my 10 pence worth.

Cross shaft has had a repair to replace the tapered pin which by all accounts shears so is replaced with a nut/bolt looks like a belt/braces with two! I'd just drill/lock tight and wire them just to ensure they don't work loose.

Release bearing I'd replace along with the clutch while its out and the carrier if its worn.

Flywheel ring gear should defiantly be on square with no run out relative to the rest of the "hub" or its going to unbalance the whole of the bottom end. I'd suspect its been poorly replaced in the past it needs removal and refitting properly and then balancing.

Andy

PS are you the same infinity Jon who used to be on the mx5nutz forum a few years back with a supercharged 5?

 

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11 hours ago, InfinityJon said:

Cheers Andy. I suspected the ring gear was not correct. 
 

Should the shaft that the fork is on be fairly  sloppy in the Ali casting of the bell housing? Looks like shaft is under size. 
 

No to the last bit. Not me and  Never had a supercharged 5

There should be bearings in each side of the bell housing for the shaft to run in. Item 20 here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/clutch-systems/clutch-system-tr5-6-1967-76.html

It also looks like your gearbox nose extension cover is badly scored too.

Stuart.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Engine stripped!

couple of issues. Pistons 1 and 2 have scoring on front side but  rest are fine.  
 

bores are good but 1 and 2 have marks that correspond with the piston marks. The marks in the bores cannot be felt so wonder if a polish would deal with it rather than a re bore. 
 

Journals on the crank are good with no marks. 
 

End float- oh dear....I’ll be ok if it’s measured in inches.  would this explain the marks in pistons 1 and 2?  But why only 1 & 2 and not all of them?

 

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