stuart Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 16 minutes ago, InfinityJon said: Question. Diff mount posts. To reinforce them, after I have welded in the additional plates, can I grind the protruding part of the pin flush with the cross beam and 5mm plate over the whole thing say using a 70x70x5mm MS plate? First it foul the tub? Typical detail for all 4? cheers. No absolutely not. Drill a hole in the re-enforcement plate just big enough to slip the plate over the top of it and seam weld round the plate and then round the pin. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted September 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 Ok comment noted, but why not if you have already seam welded around the pin and additional reinforcement plates. Surely a capping plate is belt and braces What is the reason for the “absolutely not”? Only curious. cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 (edited) . I believe the "absolutely not" refers to grinding the pin off flush to the top before fitting a reinforcement plate. Because doing so means that the pin may possibly pull out from underneath the reinforcing plate, but by poking the pin through, and then welding it there too is much stronger.. Here are three more TR6 chassis likewise done. The body mounting brackets are a little above the level of the reinforcement plates, and then they have the rubber body mount pads sitting on top of them. I didn't do the job so cannot say what thickness the plates are, but clearly the studs protruded through and then were also welded on top. Likewise another . . arrow points to a split along the front edge ..which I've seen a few times, so worth checking for. And this one too, the pins poke through and are also welded to the reinforcement plates. Here the restorer used thinner plates with up-turned edges ..like a shallow channel sections. I understand the very top corner of those upturned edges (..those on the main spring hanger, but not those on the damper's bridge) were subsequently trimmed back to the horizontal ..to avoid their contact with the body tub. . . Edited September 13, 2019 by Bfg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted September 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 BFG. Tell me about the adjustable trailing arm cradle in the last photo. Who sells that and at what cost? Not seen one like that before. Revingtons want 500 quid for a set that contains about £30 of components. Looking for alternatives. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 (edited) IJ, sorry but I was looking as chassis reinforcements so did a bit of web searching which led me < here > ..but then I found it again on Bullfires excellent website < here > which I think may answer your query. Edited September 13, 2019 by Bfg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 1 hour ago, InfinityJon said: Ok comment noted, but why not if you have already seam welded around the pin and additional reinforcement plates. Surely a capping plate is belt and braces What is the reason for the “absolutely not”? Only curious. cheers. Hi Jon By passing the pin through the plate you can be certain to have seam welded to both the bridge and plate so its reinforced top and bottom of the "box". Just capping it would mean a vast majority of any weld been ground off to get the plate flush so it makes the original idea off beefing it up less effective. Any remains of the pin could then be ground off if there is any left mine added nicely to the weld pool!. I boxed the rear pins and the bridge internally and along the whole length back to the chassis rails using seam welds as the whole thing is quite weak the "U" shape could be deformed by hand; solid now. The front bridge was seam welded where it joins the legs and to the chassis as some of the factory welds were poor in some areas. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jr2 Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 2 hours ago, InfinityJon said: BFG. Tell me about the adjustable trailing arm cradle in the last photo. Who sells that and at what cost? Not seen one like that before. Revingtons want 500 quid for a set that contains about £30 of components. Looking for alternatives. This is the manufacture of what others re-sell (not Revingtons): https://www.goodparts.com/product/trailing-arm-bracket-kit-adjustable/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted September 14, 2019 Report Share Posted September 14, 2019 8 hours ago, InfinityJon said: Revingtons want 500 quid for a set that contains about £30 of components. Looking for alternatives. Such comments regarding material cost are an example of not knowing what it takes to develop such parts. The Revington brackets can be bought directly from the supplier, he lives in Holland and his name is Wiel. I adressed this few months ago. These brackets are far superior than Goodparts. But Revington adds its profit in addition. The development is over a few years and they are worth every penny. Setting chamber and track !! Details, send me PM. Jochem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted September 14, 2019 Report Share Posted September 14, 2019 Hi, I use a set of "this" brackets from "Robert Babor / Racinggreen" (Germany) since 2013. They are made of stainless steel, cost about 225 Euros. Wiel's brackets I know from the www.TR-freun.de and indeed they are very interesting because "Spur and Sturz" (perhaps someone with better english can translate) is adjustable. And the look more authentic and inconspicuous, more suitable to a classic car. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted September 14, 2019 Report Share Posted September 14, 2019 13 minutes ago, Z320 said: Spur and Sturz" (perhaps someone with better english can translate) Track and Chamber Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted September 14, 2019 Report Share Posted September 14, 2019 Thanks Jochem, every day is good to learn something. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted September 14, 2019 Report Share Posted September 14, 2019 (edited) Never mind, already been answered. You are doing an impressive job, Jon. Edited September 14, 2019 by Sapphire72 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted September 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2019 (edited) Got most of one side sand blasted and got the frame back inside overnight. While it was up on supports, I thought I would have a check for square and flat. Square, its spot on. Flatness raises a question. With it sat level side to side starting from the rear it runs true right through its underside. The front corner may be out of level by 4mm. Is this a problem? Of corse it may also be right across the front and the rear opposite drop out. Is 4mm a problem? Difficult to tell if is a local issue or a gentle twist through the length. I could well imagine that parking the car on uneven ground for a period of time could induce that level of twist. Thoughts please. Edited September 15, 2019 by InfinityJon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted September 15, 2019 Report Share Posted September 15, 2019 Some will say you can shim it out , But wrong it will give you grief down the line. You sure your levels are accurate? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted September 15, 2019 Report Share Posted September 15, 2019 4mm I wouldn't worry about it and shim it out, more important that its square so the wheels point in the same direction. These cars weren't exactly built by robots and QA was in its infancy! If the car drove ok before the strip down and shell and gaps looked reasonable it should go back the same. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted September 15, 2019 Report Share Posted September 15, 2019 I wouldnt think that factory tolerance was much tighter than 4 mm end to end. Bolting on the body may have an effect on it, too. I'll bet you could tweak that 4mm away if you wanted to. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted September 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2019 Joy, more sandblasting! Discovered a couple more stress cracks so the “welding done” status is now “needs more”. Question, When painting the chassis, POR15. How do people deal with joins in paintwork? I know it’s best to cover all surfaces in one hit but I can’t see how this will be done with a brush. Plus I will have to turn the frame. Is it better to do sections? If so ”what chunks” Is it better to do the underside and sides with two coats then turn the chassis and paint the top. Views please. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted September 21, 2019 Report Share Posted September 21, 2019 Hi Jon, many paints indicate on the tin how many time is allowed between 2 coats, I would look for that. If the time is longer, light sanding is normally required. Wear gloves:) Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted September 21, 2019 Report Share Posted September 21, 2019 POR15 instructions say you add second coat when first is "finger drag" dry. To me this means the paint will still bond well to itself when it is dry to the touch, but it still feels soft. For me, this took 2-3 hours, plenty of time to get a full coat on, even without a rotisserie. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted November 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2019 Chassis finally sandblasted. Waiting for a dry day and finally got one. The blasting has revealed two areas that need a patch and some additional dif mount strengthening. Hope to get the plates welded in tomorrow and then paint it before the damp sets in and we are back at square one. Behind the scenes, new mounting hardware and poly bushes have arrived ready for assembly. What do people paint the Aluminium trailing arm casting with? Like to stay in the POR range but what are my options? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 16, 2019 Report Share Posted November 16, 2019 The TA's will get dirty whatever paint scheme and are easy to clean anyway. You could leave the TA's unpainted. That way any cracks will show u easier. Otherwise a light coat of wheel silver. Some folk have used powder coating (not good in my opinion.) I would leave the POR in the tin. It will cover up any problems too well and may be too late to sort. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted November 16, 2019 Report Share Posted November 16, 2019 Shot blasted mine checked for cracks and then painted them with two coats of POR15 silver. Time will tell if it lasts. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted November 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 Major goal reached! All chassis welding and strengthening done and the chassis painted with two coats of POR15. Let the build begin! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 Hi Jon, good result. I recommend to tap all the threaded holes while the chassis is “empty”, it makes installation of components much easier. From what I recall they are all UNF, a couple of sizes. The POR will be very hard, so be careful not to double cross the threads is some paint has entered the holes. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 Looking good, what's next build up the chassis? Pretty satisfying to do all this and know it's right. Gareth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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