Jump to content

And so it begins.....


Recommended Posts

16 minutes ago, InfinityJon said:

Question. Diff mount posts. 

To reinforce them, after I have welded in the additional plates, can I grind the protruding part of the pin flush with the cross beam and 5mm plate over the whole thing say using a 70x70x5mm MS plate?  First it foul the tub?

Typical detail for all 4?

cheers. 

No absolutely not. Drill a hole in the re-enforcement plate just big enough to slip the plate over the top of it and seam weld round the plate and then round the pin.

Stuart.

 

photo ch20.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 392
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

In answer to your question yes mine was restored 26 years ago now and has been used in all weathers and Im no polisher, the chassis and underside which was done the same way as I always do them as ill

Day 6: Good progress this weekend.  All the dash out and steering column. Dash metalwork removed and the heater matrix out.  Wind screen lifted to remove dash pad. And windscreen and fr

Front end all stripped and waiting for sand blasting. Passenger side is a pile of bits while drivers side has been mostly blasted and waiting in temporary  bondarust for a quick re blast and two coats

Posted Images

.

I believe the "absolutely not" refers to grinding the pin off flush to the top  before fitting a reinforcement plate.  Because doing so means that the pin may possibly pull out from underneath the reinforcing plate, but by poking the pin through, and then welding it there too is much stronger.. 

Here are three more TR6 chassis likewise done.  The body mounting brackets are a little above the level of the reinforcement plates, and then they have the rubber body mount pads sitting on top of them.

20180901_144932.thumb.jpg.2dee7714ffcad11dfc28ac091e538bbe.jpg

I didn't do the job so cannot say what thickness the plates are, but clearly the studs protruded through and then were also welded on top.

Likewise another  .  .

383075708_diffmountsreinforcestuds02.jpg.71fc889a879b81d50a832fed55a9bffa.jpg

arrow points to a split along the front edge ..which I've seen a few times, so worth checking for.

And this one too, the pins poke through and are also welded to the reinforcement plates.   Here the restorer used thinner plates with up-turned edges ..like a shallow channel sections.  I understand the very top corner of those upturned edges (..those on the main spring hanger, but not those on the damper's bridge) were subsequently trimmed back to the horizontal ..to avoid their contact with the body tub. . .

SDC11668a.thumb.JPG.7e5ccca793fdc7fcab26bf79c3521c0c.JPG

 

Edited by Bfg
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

IJ, sorry but I was looking as chassis reinforcements so did a bit of web searching which led me < here:rolleyes:

..but then I found it again on Bullfires excellent website < here > which I think may answer your query. B)

 

Edited by Bfg
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, InfinityJon said:

Ok comment noted, but why not if you have already seam welded around the pin and additional reinforcement plates.  Surely a capping plate is belt and braces

What is the reason for the “absolutely not”? Only curious.

cheers. 

Hi Jon

By passing the pin through the plate you can be certain to have seam welded to both the bridge and plate so its reinforced top and bottom of the "box". Just capping it would mean a vast  majority of any weld been ground off to get the plate flush so it makes the original idea off beefing it up less effective. Any remains of the pin could then be ground off if there is any left mine added nicely to the weld pool!.

I boxed the rear pins and the bridge internally and along the whole length back to the chassis rails using seam welds as the whole thing is quite weak the "U" shape could be deformed by hand; solid now. The front bridge was seam welded where it joins the legs and to the chassis as some of the factory welds were poor in some areas.

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, InfinityJon said:

BFG. Tell me about the adjustable trailing arm cradle in the last photo.  Who sells that and at what cost? Not seen one like that before.  Revingtons want 500 quid for a set that contains about £30 of components. Looking for alternatives. 

This is the manufacture of what others re-sell (not Revingtons):

https://www.goodparts.com/product/trailing-arm-bracket-kit-adjustable/

59-TR-Brackets-HR.jpg

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, InfinityJon said:

Revingtons want 500 quid for a set that contains about £30 of components. Looking for alternatives.

Such comments regarding material cost are an example of not knowing what it takes to develop such parts. The Revington brackets can be bought directly from the supplier, he lives in Holland and his name is Wiel.  I adressed this few months ago. These brackets are far superior than Goodparts. But Revington adds its profit in addition. The development is over a few years and they are worth every penny. Setting chamber and track !! 

Details, send me PM. 

Jochem

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

I use a set of "this" brackets from "Robert Babor / Racinggreen" (Germany) since 2013.

They are made of stainless steel, cost about 225 Euros.

Wiel's brackets I know from the www.TR-freun.de and indeed they are very interesting because "Spur and Sturz" (perhaps someone with better english can translate) is adjustable.

And the look more authentic and inconspicuous, more suitable to a classic car.

Ciao, Marco

Link to post
Share on other sites

Got most of one side sand blasted and got the frame back inside overnight. 

While it was up on supports, I thought I would have a check for square and flat. 

Square, its spot on. Flatness raises a question. 

With it sat level side to side starting from the rear it runs true right through its underside. The front corner may be out of level by 4mm. Is this a problem?  Of corse it may also be right across the front and the rear opposite drop out. 

Is 4mm a problem?  Difficult to tell if is a local issue or a gentle twist through the length. 

I could well imagine that parking the car on uneven ground for a period of time could induce that level of twist. 

Thoughts please. BCB290C5-03EA-40DA-A2D0-1108EBCCE829.thumb.jpeg.bedf760555b8ce11e7a884bae6df0d72.jpeg

7147DDDE-69E2-466E-932F-017A71F9EA89.jpeg

Edited by InfinityJon
Link to post
Share on other sites

4mm I wouldn't worry about it and shim it out, more important that its square so the wheels point in the same direction. These cars weren't exactly built by robots and QA was in its infancy!

If the car drove ok before the strip down and shell and gaps looked reasonable it should go back the same.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Joy, more sandblasting!  Discovered a couple more stress cracks so the “welding done” status  is now “needs more”.  
 

Question,

When painting the chassis, POR15.  How do people deal with joins in paintwork?  I know it’s best to cover all surfaces in one hit but I can’t see how this will be done with a brush. Plus I will have to turn the frame. 
Is it better to do sections? If so ”what chunks” Is it better to do the underside and sides with two coats then turn the chassis and paint the top.

Views please. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Jon,

many paints indicate on the tin how many time is allowed between 2 coats, I would look for that. If the time is longer, light sanding is normally required.

Wear gloves:)

Waldi

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

POR15 instructions say you add second coat when first is "finger drag" dry.  To me this means the paint will still bond well to itself when it is dry to the touch, but it still feels soft. For me, this took 2-3 hours, plenty of time to get a full coat on, even without a rotisserie.

Ed

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Chassis finally sandblasted. 
 

Waiting for a dry day and finally got one.  The blasting has revealed two areas that need a patch and some additional dif mount strengthening.   Hope to get the plates welded in tomorrow and then paint it before the damp sets in and we are back at square one. 
 

Behind  the scenes, new mounting hardware and poly bushes have arrived ready for assembly. 
 

What do people paint the Aluminium trailing arm casting with?  Like to stay in the POR range but what are my options?

 

 

B72202BC-812C-4286-8935-A7A20C35CA52.jpeg

B2789E2D-4209-4AA8-B0A0-0A40F5060901.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

The TA's will get dirty whatever paint scheme and are easy to clean anyway. 

You could leave the TA's unpainted. That way any cracks will show u easier.

Otherwise a light coat of wheel silver.

Some folk have used powder coating (not good in my opinion.)

I would leave the POR in the tin. It will cover up any problems too well and may be too late to sort.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

Shot blasted mine checked for cracks and then painted them with two coats of POR15 silver. Time will tell if it lasts.

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Jon,

good result. I recommend to tap all the threaded holes while the chassis is “empty”, it makes installation of components much easier. From what I recall they are all UNF, a couple of sizes. The POR will be very hard, so be careful not to double cross the threads is some paint has entered the holes.

Waldi

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.