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And so it begins.....


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Started to sort out the front valance. Heavy pitting and holes on the metalwork. 

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Made three grill clips so I can remove the existing that have rust under them and replace them. 0CD95496-5D95-496E-B4D8-19C29A78EA21.thumb.jpeg.099130763f56335751b58525ca1d3241.jpeg0057059B-40D2-4B60-A5F8-A66A3B961745.thumb.jpeg.76925da126eedf54086454a0f8e4abee.jpeg

Cut out and replaced the worst of the rot. 

 

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The radiator opening is quite complicated to fabricate so trying an alternative. 

Wire brush and then build up the surface with weld. Grind and repeat. Let you know how it goes. 

 

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Edited by InfinityJon
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In answer to your question yes mine was restored 26 years ago now and has been used in all weathers and Im no polisher, the chassis and underside which was done the same way as I always do them as ill

Day 6: Good progress this weekend.  All the dash out and steering column. Dash metalwork removed and the heater matrix out.  Wind screen lifted to remove dash pad. And windscreen and fr

Front end all stripped and waiting for sand blasting. Passenger side is a pile of bits while drivers side has been mostly blasted and waiting in temporary  bondarust for a quick re blast and two coats

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1 hour ago, InfinityJon said:

Made the steering bulkhead boss today from the LHD version. Dissected the bell mouth and welded it to a heavy plate. 54ED3269-3C02-4B34-AB0B-BBA9686D0F8C.thumb.jpeg.41806ef1ffd9bafe2aa2561123204234.jpeg562F1910-E66A-403B-B2A2-6C5180CC63A3.thumb.jpeg.ddc2fa9e6dc107dc1abe1e7b529a7155.jpeg632FA840-D66E-4CEE-96B8-3DD75433DA04.thumb.jpeg.16305022ee992945e531e64c44d58963.jpeg

Filled in the old hole and cut the hole in the Bulkhead for the RHD version. 

685CA19D-12BA-4060-B1AA-5B08768B1E3A.thumb.jpeg.c99f88c51275104ba50124f44b2d638e.jpegNext to fit the newRHD bracket and then slice up the metal dash!  

Dont forget the captive nut in the rear left hand corner of the battery tray for the dashboard stay.

Stuart.

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Metal Dash conversion 

14EEC554-D345-4AD7-9F29-0D86FF047AC6.thumb.jpeg.cc2ffec42dc5bbf8d82e6eb0e84890aa.jpegso after a bit of head scratching and consultation with the Solidworks 3D model, I picked up the air saw and slit up the dash. 

Annoyingly, the centreline of the steering column is 10mm different than the centreline of the glovebox hence the strip patch on the RHS of the drivers side. 422E12C2-F435-44C6-976A-20E3CBE2E131.thumb.jpeg.63505eda029a265282e84189181bcda6.jpeg896E5011-CA23-436B-A08F-B1D5348D019A.thumb.jpeg.4227ce2303806f90bbfd18f04fd9e303.jpegD9342253-EB2A-474D-A355-73367E1CCDD2.thumb.jpeg.6e38f7ccdcd6ab2d2c98207aa55a770b.jpeg

Think it’s worked.

the only thing I could not flip was the steering column clamp. But I kept the rake of the original but decided to deal with the slight mounting angle by packing one side out with a thick washer. 1D43EC9B-BDA4-48B8-86C5-3D119421BB4F.thumb.jpeg.00c4319cf81596cddef07d61d051a76d.jpeg

Nearly there on the conversion bits

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Edited by InfinityJon
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Who do I speak to at the club to get some assistance with getting an age related plate. As been documented above I’ve been rejected once and told that I should re apply when the car has been restored. And what is the definition of restored?

i appreciate that this is all about arse about face but I did not realise that the plate application involved an inspection and so I was under the belief that I could carry on while the paper exercise of plate issuing got done. 

Really don’t want a Q plate  any help please?

i have applied for a official heritage certificate, joined the TR register  - could do with an official line of assistance.

 

 

 

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21 hours ago, tr graham said:

John

get the car A MOT on its vin number then drop me a mail a v765@tr-register.co.uk and I will advise you , or we can make the application on your behalf.

regards

graham

Hi Graham,

thanks for the comment. Can I PM you?

cheers. Jonathan 

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Body Off!

finally get to see the state of the chassis......and it’s great. Places of original paint and shinny metal.

A test clean up of the frame and now to strip it. 

Engine and box out next. 

Body covered in rust primer and now wrapped for the summer while I deal with the chassis.

 

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Beautiful building Jon, is that your home?

Graham

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We are always watching Escape to the Country.  About 7 years behind mind you.

my wife's Uncle and Aunt managed a pub in Derbyshire, building was from 1645 I believe, I just loved it.

Graham.

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15 hours ago, InfinityJon said:

Body Off!

finally get to see the state of the chassis......and it’s great. Places of original paint and shinny metal.

A test clean up of the frame and now to strip it. 

Engine and box out next. 

Body covered in rust primer and now wrapped for the summer while I deal with the chassis.

 

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Note the front right diff mounting pin punched up through the bridge. Now`s the time to re-enforce all four of them.

Stuart.

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40 minutes ago, InfinityJon said:

Cheers Stuart, thought it looked odd. 

Its a well known fault with them, Right front gets punched upwards and left rear gets pulled downwards due to the torque reaction of the diff. You can get a kit of parts to re-enforce Numbers 80 & 81 here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/body-chassis/chassis-subframes/chassis-frame-tr5-6.html

also worth fitting numbers 74/75/76 as well.

Stuart.

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Engine and box out. Rear diff out and a first look at the underside. 

This car must of had an oil leak from the day it left the factory because under all the oil is shiny steel and original black factory paint. Can’t believe the condition. 

Suspension strip down to leave just the frame and then to clean and prep the chassis to replace both out riggers. Only one needs replacing but in for a penny......

Love the pigeon poo welding sort of by the diff mount pins. Think that will need a strip and start again!!

Diff has major oil leak so that will be a rebuild.

Think it will slow down again after the full strip down.

 

 

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Edited by InfinityJon
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I would take the "T" Shirts off anyway as there is often rot behind when it looks fine.

Stuart.

 

Marks TR5 091.jpg

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1 hour ago, stuart said:

I would take the "T" Shirts off anyway as there is often rot behind when it looks fine.

Stuart.

 

Marks TR5 091.jpg

I removed the bottom one first. It had only a minor bulge in 2 places, but when I removed it it looked like the one in Stuart’s example, the upper one was ok in my case.

Waldi

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