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John

please let me know how you get on with the DVLA , nearly all V5/55 applications are being returned until the vehicle is roadworthy and has a MOT , i know it is exempt because of the year , but until the DVLA actually issue an age related plate and agree a year, this seems to be a sticking point with them. If you have problems we can assist as a club

regards

graham

 

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In answer to your question yes mine was restored 26 years ago now and has been used in all weathers and Im no polisher, the chassis and underside which was done the same way as I always do them as ill

Day 6: Good progress this weekend.  All the dash out and steering column. Dash metalwork removed and the heater matrix out.  Wind screen lifted to remove dash pad. And windscreen and fr

Front end all stripped and waiting for sand blasting. Passenger side is a pile of bits while drivers side has been mostly blasted and waiting in temporary  bondarust for a quick re blast and two coats

Posted Images

Day 5:

Stripped fuel tank - quite rusty and sludgy inside  

All the looms are out. Thought about snipping them but wanted to preserve for reference. Not the easiest job in the world but all out.

Dash out, crash pads off- bagged and tagged all components and into storage boxes.

Question. The vinyl dash top needs come off  I have released the front but the back is stuck under the windscreen. All the books say don’t take the windscreen off yet. So do I just ease the screen up slightly to get underneath it or take the screen and frame off the put it back on after I have removed the foam dash top.

How much of a body forming device is the windscreen? Does it hold the body square?  Can I just take it off now? Am I over worrying it role in keeping the car square?

Next - finish removing dash and steering wheel, pedal box and then into the engine bay to strip what necessary to remove the body plus remove heater matrix. Also thinking about a brace frame for door openings and lifting. What have other people done?initial thoughts were weld 1” square tube from A to B posts.  Anything else?

 

 

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Hi Jon 

Nice project and nice to see some pics, which given the number how did you manage to up load so many I struggle with one as I get the "over 4.2" limit!

Take the screen surround off to get the dash top off and put it back on in the same position as it acts as a reference if you are replacing the sills/floors. I periodically wound the windows up to ensure the gap to the frame and glass was even all the way up and down.

Andy 

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30 minutes ago, PodOne said:

 how did you manage to up load so many I struggle with one as I get the "over 4.2" limit!

Hi Andy, I take the pics with my iPhone then use “compress” app to pack them down to something sensible. It the saves a smaller copy in your camera roll. 

Actuly discovered that the frame was only tight on one side so it’s not doing much at the moment. I will before I go much further check the side windows, then do as you advise. 

Cheers

Jonathan

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Day 6:

Good progress this weekend. 

All the dash out and steering column. Dash metalwork removed and the heater matrix out. 

Wind screen lifted to remove dash pad. And windscreen and frame fastened back. 

4610AF05-727B-4B9D-9778-D7463D1188B6.thumb.jpeg.d7937daf1cd76dc3fd61f8f43fc9152f.jpegRemaining door cards out and the window opening trims removed. Visual check to the inside bottoms of both doors look solid with almost no rust. 

Cant work out how to remove the steering column from the metal dash backing plate. Need to remove steering lock.

Started on the engine bay and removed all the US spec emissions gear, air pump and and the carbs. I don’t want to strip too much of the engine so as to leave the weight on the chassis. 

Next to strip the pedal box and the hydraulic system and anything that will foul the body during lift off. 

Welder should be here Monday so I can brace the doors ready for the lift. Not sure if I will get to that next weekend as I have to arrange gas  delivery and also need to build a metal work bench. 

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On 1/27/2019 at 9:17 PM, PodOne said:

how did you manage to up load so many I struggle with one as I get the "over 4.2" limit!

Caesium. Great software and free. Or use a site like Postimage.org

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For those floor repairs, try doing a web search for 'Kent Bergsma miracle paint rust repair'.

He has got a bunch of YouTube videos on how he repairs non-structural rust holes on old Mercedes-Benz cars.

He uses fiberglass cloth and a thick non-porous, hard drying paint from Bill Hirsch (Miracle Paint) to patch the metal.

It dries as hard as a thin steel, and will not rust out again.

It is cheap and easy, just time intensive. Avoids welding.

Edited by Sapphire72
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6 hours ago, Sapphire72 said:

For those floor repairs, try doing a web search for 'Kent Bergsma miracle paint rust repair'.

He has got a bunch of YouTube videos on how he repairs non-structural rust holes on old Mercedes-Benz cars.

He uses fiberglass cloth and a thick non-porous, hard drying paint from Bill Hirsch (Miracle Paint) to patch the metal.

It dries as hard as a thin steel, and will not rust out again.

It is cheap and easy, just time intensive. Avoids welding.

No disrespect intended but there is nothing other than dipping, cutting rot out and letting new metal in or replacing a panel that will work in the long run. Anything else IMO is simply kicking the can down the track until this becomes inevitable. Given its a full strip there will never be a better time and besides learning to weld is a good skill to learn. 

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1 hour ago, PodOne said:

No disrespect intended but there is nothing other than dipping, cutting rot out and letting new metal in or replacing a panel that will work in the long run. Anything else IMO is simply kicking the can down the track until this becomes inevitable. Given its a full strip there will never be a better time and besides learning to weld is a good skill to learn. 

It’s getting cut out and new metal welded back in!

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18 minutes ago, InfinityJon said:

 

It’s getting cut out and new metal welded back in!

Top man!

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2 hours ago, InfinityJon said:

 

It’s getting cut out and new metal welded back in!

No disrespect taken, nor intended, but this fiberglass patch method makes a strong repair, and it will not rust out again.

Just trying to save you money.

In your new metal replacement be sure to treat the welds TOP & BOTTOM SIDES with appropriate epoxy primer coating, then a non-porous top paint- or they will rust again.

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On 1/27/2019 at 6:21 PM, tr graham said:

John

please let me know how you get on with the DVLA , nearly all V5/55 applications are being returned until the vehicle is roadworthy and has a MOT , i know it is exempt because of the year , but until the DVLA actually issue an age related plate and agree a year, this seems to be a sticking point with them. If you have problems we can assist as a club

regards

graham

 

Just had a letter back from dvla to say I need to get the car inspected by SGS. Well a man can come and look at a pile of bits if he wants but I am not sure how this will progress the process?  What a long winded process.  Can’t see why if I give them the nova, chassis number and filled the forms, insurance and US title papers why they can’t just issue a plate. 

Anyone offer anything on this?

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I'm in the same position but cannot see a problem in registering with the DVLA when I have an MoT. It's a lot more simple than registering a kit car, I can assure you. Not sure what one gains from it apart from knowing an age related reg number.

Getting an MoT on the chassis number is a normal option.

Edited by Richard Pope
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Same thing, I got an MOT, but as I had little paperwork, I had to drive it to the nearest dvla office so they could see the chassis numbers I'd filled in and the car themselves, before they gave me the number plate. 

Gareth

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John

The DVLA will expect at least one normally 2 independent inspection before issuing a number ,  a MOT will normally suffice , a club letter accompanying will also speed things along , the last three I submitted have been successful with a log book being issued within 10 days , in the absence of either they will get SGS to inspect I believe you have to inform them if the car is dismantled  ?? As I said before the club can help you or any other members contact v765@tr-register.co.uk

graham

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sod it. Let’s get on with it!

Pedal box out, brake master and clutch hydraulics out. 

Door glass out and all fittings out except the catches. 

Handbrake out and wiper motor and drive gear out. 

Had an explore of the front wing and took that off. In a previous bodge, it’s had a load of filler round the headlight and obviously had a slight knock  I think it will beat out as it’s not major.

Looks ok under the wing on tub. Will be needing a new splash guard,  an outer sill and end caps. Inner sill is strong and needs only a couple of small patches. 

Having doubts about the floors so may replace those, I’ll keep mulling that one over. 

 

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When you turn the car upside down you will then see how easy it is to replace the floor pans.When replaced it gives a huge lift on the restoration.

A lot of us have been there and you will benefit from that.

Good luck and you will see why we have grins on our faces after every drive out.

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter

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Hi Jon

Think when you chop the front sills out I suspect you will find they are a lot worse. The rears will also be in need of attention.

If you are thinking floors I'd do the whole of the sills as well while your at it  mine looked like this

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Jon - from past experience on my part, I personally would not be looking to replace the floors in your car en masse, but rather it I would cut up a new floor pan to make repair sections for those areas which need it - your floors don't look that bad!

Similarly with your sills - if the rest of your sill is sound and only the front bit under the wing is rotten, just cut it out and weld in a new bit  - new sills are nowhere near as good as old ones and you will have to do a fair bit of work to make them fit well, so stick with what you've got as far as possible.

I've learnt the hard way that we are typically too quick to cut out panels in total when there is only a little rot, whereas it's often, admittedly not always,  easier to repair in situ and avoid losing the integrity of the original panel alignment. However, you have to assess what you have properly and I don't dismiss replacing in total when you have to -  I also agree that reality is often much worse than it appears when it comes to rot but I don't think your front sill is anywhere near as bad as the photos PodOne has just posted

Just my pennyworth

Cheers

Rich

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On my CP I replaced the front and rear end of the sills only, to ensure I would keep the shut lines between door and sill nice as they were. I used new sills to cut out repair sections. Once you have removed the corroded front - and rear ends, you can see what the rest is like and decide if this is an acceptable approach for your car too. Mine were bot as bad as yours

Waldi

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On 1/26/2019 at 9:37 PM, InfinityJon said:

Day 4:

Front bumper off - a lot more rust inside with most captive nuts spinning. Access is rubbish.

All the struts in good shape and no rust on the mount holes. 

Dash is out and instruments carefully packed in their storage box. Ready for either refurb or replacement. Do the chrome rings on the gauges split from the housings?

stared to pull the heater hoses and fittings as well as crash pads.

Not too worried about labelling the wiring as I’ll be getting a new loom. 

At the other end, emptied fuel tank that’s ready to come out. 

Got most of the day at it tomorrow so it would be nice to have the cockpit clear with just steel in place. 

A couple from today. Phone died so cockpit shots tomorrow. 

 

 

 

 

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Jon,

1. - That's an interesting front radiator protection shield. Looks to have been reinforced with a downward flange at the front and several gusset plates. Is there an obvious reason for that? I've never seen one like that before.

2. - What are the two bracing bars sticking out of the front of the valance for? Again I've not seen those previously.

Dave McD

 

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28 minutes ago, Dave McDonald said:

 That's an interesting front radiator protection shield. Looks to have been reinforced with a downward flange at the front and several gusset plates.

Looks like a snow blower attachment. :)

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9 hours ago, Dave McDonald said:

Jon,

1. - That's an interesting front radiator protection shield. Looks to have been reinforced with a downward flange at the front and several gusset plates. Is there an obvious reason for that? I've never seen one like that before.

2. - What are the two bracing bars sticking out of the front of the valance for? Again I've not seen those previously.

Dave McD

 

Hi Dave,

The two bracing bard are from the us spec front end. Just crossed them out the way once the bumper was removed. 

The radiator protection? Not sure  I will investigate when the body is removed.

Really on stop at the moment as SGS cried off the inspection on Friday due to bad health and now I’m delayed by another week.

 

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