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Mr. Magoo

clutch slave cylinder push rod

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clutch slave cylinder question:

how is the push rod withdrawn from the slave cylinder - I am replacing it with the Moss adjustable type push rod - like wise, how is the new one installed?

new TR 6 owner - thanks, Mr. Magoo

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Hello Mr Magoo!

You pull the rubber cap off and pull the rod out.  See extract from the wsm. 

Happy new year everyone!

 

4B5AFC4D-95F7-43B2-8676-2EE2E3E28987.png

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Happy new year to everyone!

As I do not own a TR6 I would like to know what the gap at the end of the TR6 push rod is?

Ciao / Cheers, Marco 

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Best wishes for all of you!

in my car, there is no play; the internal spring in the bottom of the slave cylinder pushes the piston outwards untill the clutch bearing contacts the diaphragm.

Waldi

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HNY from me too. 

We’ve had a recent lengthy discussion about adjustable/fixed length pushrods. 

First question is why do you want to replace the non adjustable rod?  

If it’s to allow manual adjustment of the clearance then you’ll also need to fit an external pull off spring. Otherwise the first time you operate the clutch the clearance will be taken up, as it’s designed to, and you’re back in the same position as if you had a fixed length pushrod. 

Edited by peejay4A

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I made some adjustable push rods for friends for their TR250/5/6, also for my TR4A and some Jags.

They are very easy to make with an "M8 Gabelkopf" (long or short) and a "Schlosserschraube M8 x 200 mm", up to some more than 200 mm lenght.

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As I have been told there could be reasons for this because of the "wrong" position of the slave  cy. and master cy.  with flangs on different positions.

Also as I have been told the pushrod on TR6 is without gap and the piston stops where the clutch diagramm / clutch shaft / leaver / push rod moves the piston.

That is than called "self adjusting". Nobody told me what the gap is for, so I made them without the gap

Ciao / Cheers, Marco    

 

Edited by Z320
reason: still my bad english

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Hi

Pete + 1

I agree why do you want to adjust the push rod. If it's because your clutch isn't engaging fully I think you should  look else where for the problem, could be any of the following.

Air in the system or not bled properly.  Faulty Master cylinder.  Worn MC push rod, clevis pin or brake pedal hole worn. Wrong MC push rod to short. Clutch operating mechanism.

If you still cannot solve the problem you would be better  getting a adjustable push rod at the MC end as a last resort.

Best of luck

 

Roger

 

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It's not easy to get the length right. Too long and you'll burn out clutches, too short and it won't disengage. In cars with adjustable clutch rods a clearance is specified .

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Thanks Roger, did not realise it was adjustable. Any idea why it says LH drive, could it be a different

length than a RH drive unit.

Thanks

John W

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LHD version is shorter due to its different location on the bulkhead. You must fit the correct length rod. 

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Hi Roger, if you follow your link you will see that there are in fact two item 37 !!!.

One is as you say, the other is LH and adjustable by the look of it.

Many thanks for your help.

Just found one on the Revington site but no pictures. ( I like pictures)

John W

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If wanted I send you the parts and you make your own lenght, adjustable +/- 5 mm

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Thanks for the offer Z320, I've ordered some bits off Ebay to make one.

Will keep you posted.

Also thanks to collin3511 for your input.

John W

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Sorry me, with "gap" I meen the notch on the top of the push rod.

 

On 1/1/2019 at 10:00 AM, Z320 said:

Happy new year to everyone!

As I do not own a TR6 I would like to know what the gap at the end of the TR6 push rod is?

Ciao / Cheers, Marco 

 

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