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Renewing Rear Shocks


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Hi All

I have just had to replace my Armstrong rear shocks  after feeling the bumps over everything on the on the road.

It is not an easy job as per the workshop manual as I could not separate the link from the arm which is a taper joint fitting. To get the shocks out with the links attached meant releasing the retainer plate under the road spring to get the link through passed the spring and the chassis. Getting that plate on again was some job, fortunately I was on a two post lift at a friends house and he helped with muscle ( I´m 80 years old now) using a wrecking bar for the leverage. We got the four old nuts on each plate with an air gun as they are longish bolts and after they where on, I replaced them with new nyloc nuts, one at a time, and torqued them down to 28-30 ft. lbs.

To get the new shocks in you are supposed to tighten the front bolt through the hole in the tub, but it was over a half bolt diameter  out, so I had to get my hand in up between the shock´s  support bracket and the side of the tub and then tighten it with an open ended spanner and a long bar to get the leverage. Putting the link onto the arm was easy enough and I used copper slip on the taper.The last part of the link to the spring plate was easy enough, job done, then it was the turn of the other side, all over again, Without the two post lift, this would have been an impossible job on the garage floor on axle stands.

The reason for the bumpy ride was because one of the shocks was broken internally, when the cam plate on the arm shaft had lost its spline so the cam did not turn and operate the two internal cylinders. It took us nearly a day to do the job. The ride now is much better,

 

 

 

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