What ‘paint’ to treat old rusty panel joins?

[Steves_TR6]

I’m replacing the rear wings on my TR6 this winter, will have the new ones painted off the car and fit with new fittings and non setting mastic.

having removed the old wings the panel join areas are pretty sound, but there is some old rust.

i’ve wire brushed this down to remove loose material and get back to metal as best i can, ready to apply some rust proof ‘paint’

what should i use ?

have had good experiences with both Hamerite smooth and Por15 when restoring motorbikes.

i’m looking for gloss or satin black, as none of the rusty areas will be visible , and brush on i think will be easier?

Steve

[RogerH]

Hi Steve,

         I use one of those nylon wheels with 'scotchbrite' type particles in. These realy know all the surface rust off.

https://abtoolsonline.com/115mm-flap-disc-clean-strip-rust-paint-graffiti-sanding-caramelised-wheel-grinder/

Once back to bare metal I coat it with Kurust. This helps to kill the rust (dream on cookie)

I then use Bondarust primer  https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Bondarust+primer&_sacat=0 

to seal the surface. This is usually red .  Ordinary aerosol primer and then a glossy top coat.

The Bondarust primer should keep the oxygen out and the gloss paint should allow water to run off.

If you want some Bondarust for your small areas pop round - I have just got a new tin of the stuff.

 

Roger

Edited December 23, 2018 by RogerH

[Steves_TR6]

Thanks Roger

interestingly i used Hammerite smooth on the rusty old front wheel fender of my honda cafe racer.

two years on it’s pretty much perfect still !

so i was leaning that way, but the bonda primer and paint option does sound  more professional

hmmm

steve

[Rogcastle]

Hi Steve

I am in the middle of scraping the underseal off my TR and will be using a slight variation to Rogers

Bilthamber hydrate 80 instead of Kurust meant to be better after tests

https://www.bilthamber.com/

Bilthamber seam sealer for seams

Bondarust primer   very popular in marine industry then

Stonechip rubber type     http://www.express-paints.co.uk/stone-chip-texture-coatings/

Paint on top of stonechip if you want.

I don't think Hammerite paint is  as good as it used to be and there are better alternatives. Ok for lawn mowers maybe.

The above come from recommendations on this forum and on line.

Best of luck

Roger

 

[Steves_TR6]

Thanks Rogers !

ok, i’ll go with a rust converter, bondaprimer then probably stonechip.

shall report back .....

steve

[Lebro]

Hammerite certainly is not as good as it used to be, but Lidl "Metal paint with rust protection" paint is every bit as good as Hammerite used to be.

It goes direct onto metal, covers very well, & does not easily run. Three coats applied at 10 min intervals, & job done - beautiful finish, & lasts well.

Rogers method is no doubt better in this case where the surface is hidden, but for exposed surfaces it's the dogs dodahs.

Bob.

 

[Ian Vincent]

My understanding is that Bondaprimer is resin based but also includes zinc and therefore seals the surface whilst providing galvanic protection against further corrosion through the microscopic pinholes that exist in any paint film.

Rgds Ian

[Charlie D]

+1 for Bondaprimer.

It’s got an odd property that I’ve never come across before.

In all the 50+ years of my life leaving paint in a tin and opening it several months later, I’ve always found there to be a skin on the top and useful paint underneath the skin. (Yes, I know the trick of storing the tin upside down, but I usually forget.)

In the case of Bondaprimer I had about 20% left in a tin and, when I opened it a month or so later, it had all turned into a fairly hard “Jelly”.

The fact that it seemed to have “Cured” into an almost solid inch thick lump gave me a lot of confidence in it’s drying properties. I could understand if it was a 2 part product, but it isn’t.

Anyone else noticed this?

Charlie.

[Ian Vincent]

It doesn’t need to be a two pack product to be a resin. It could be a water / moisture activated resin. 

The same company that used to manufacture Bondarust Primer also made a product called G4 that back in the mid seventies they marketed for waterproofing cellars and the like. It was a very runny clear polyester, water activated resin.  They were based in Beckenham, just around the corner from where my then girlfriend (now my wife) lived.  I was a customer for both products.

Rgds Ian

PS Just remembered the name of the supplier: Bondaglass - Voss, and according to Google they still exist in Ravenscroft Road, Beckenham. 

Edited December 24, 2018 by Ian Vincent

[Charlie D]

Thanks for that explanation Ian, I never realized that you could get a moisture cured resin.

I just Googled “G4”. It’s still available, one use if for sealing concrete ponds.

This forum really is a font of all knowledge!

Charlie.

[Steves_TR6]

Thanks for the additional thoughts guys.

just popped down to halfords for some Kurust, shall apply that then order some Bonda primer.

guess i’ll buy a small tin or ‘borrow’ some off Roger

then its probably stonechip and underseal

shall post some photos 

steve

[RogerH]

Hi Steve,

             you are welcome to the odd teaspoonful or two

 

Give me a call when you need it.

 

Roger

[Steves_TR6]

1 hour ago, RogerH said:

Hi Steve,

             you are welcome to the odd teaspoonful or two

 

Give me a call when you need it.

 

Roger

Thanks Roger, i’ve just ‘cured’ the rust with Kurust so guess i’m ready for primer later in the week.

i bought the 250ml bottle of Kurust and used hardly any!, but i do have some other areas to ‘cure’ later.

I’ll take you up on the offer Roger, as seems a waste to buy a tin of it then sets solid !

Happy Christmas in the meantime !

steve

[RogerH]

Hi Steve,

   PM sent

 

Roger

[PodOne]

I'd go for POR 15 from Frost.

Tad expensive and you need to seal the tin with polythene afterwards or you will never open it again which is a testament to how hard this stuff drys. That said you can get it in 250ml tins and it goes a long way with a glass finish if you use the gloss.

It's resin based but water/moisture activated. The damper it is the harder it sets ideal for under body/chassie I used it lost in the past with no break through of rust after 5 years in fact it bonds better to light rust and can be over painted if you want.

Andy. 

[Steves_TR6]

This afternoon in a moment of weakness I surrendered and bought a NOS NS wing on ebay, so will soon have a pair to get painted and fitted

just need to choose a ‘paint man’ now as my old paint man has retired.

steve

PS thanks to Roger for the ‘loan’ of a tin of Bonda, which is pretty close in colour to Pimento !

[stuart]

Do bear in mind that all reds fade so you may need to paint a bit more than just the wings to be able to lose the difference somewhere.

Stuart.

Edited December 28, 2018 by stuart

[Steves_TR6]

Thanks Stuart, i’m leaning to having the wings painted and fitted professionally because of paint matching and also because the ‘NOS’ wing i paid an arm and a leg for turns out to be both dented and bent !

see photos.

i drove a nearly 300 mile round trip today to collect, noticed the dent in the top surface upon collection and was not best pleased but didnt think it was too bad.

on getting it home and standing next to the old wing the ‘NOS’ is bent and will need work before painting and fitting.

Advice welcome ( apart from ‘drive another 300 miles to take it back!)

steve

[Steves_TR6]

Photos, how much work do you think to straighten this out?

 

 

 

Edited March 6, 2019 by Steves_TR6

[stuart]

Not a lot, just wants a go with a spoon to get in there to get the crease out then a bit of standing on between two bits of wood to get swage line back and a little tapping after.

Stuart.

[Steves_TR6]

8 minutes ago, stuart said:

Not a lot, just wants a go with a spoon to get in there to get the crease out then a bit of standing on between two bits of wood to get swage line back and a little tapping after.

Stuart.

Thanks Stuart, thats a relief 

steve

[Steves_TR6]

Thought i’d post an update.

with the expense of the wings and needing the NOS one straightened i decided to have them fitted professionally

a local shop came recommended by a neighbour, so the panels went off 10 days ago 

was passing the shop today so popped in for a chat, panels have beennstraightened and test fitted, stonechipped and prepped for paint.

from the attention to detail of the stonechip i think its going to be a beautiful job!

 

[stuart]

Presumably they will prime and paint the insides as well?

Stuart.

[Steves_TR6]

Apparently the car is ‘Ready for collection’ 

exciting !

[Steves_TR6]

Teaser, looking nice!