Guest Marcus - TR5 Posted April 5, 2006 Report Share Posted April 5, 2006 Well basically, my father owns a 1969 Triumph TR-5 overdrive, with the original straight 6 cylinder engine (2.5 litre). It has just been fully serviced and sorted out, as it was idle in a lock garage for a few years. For a few months she seemed to be running sweet as a nut, absolutly tearing up the country lanes! But, recently when the car has been running for about 15 minutes, with everything all warmed up etc., when you blip the throttle there seems to be a shortage of fuel reaching the engine and it becomes really lumpy. We cannot think what it could be, as a new fuel pump was installed a few months prior, and this problem only seems to occur when she's been running for a while. If you don't keep on the revs then she eventually just dies, and then won't start for about an hour after that. Our first guesses were the metering unit, but after a close examination there seems to be no problem with that at all, or the fuel pick-up point..but we're not entirely sure. If anyone has any suggestions as to what this could be, and/or how this could be sorted out then please respond asap!, because it is highly frustrating, as she is becoming and extremely unreliable car. Cheers, Marcus. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted April 6, 2006 Report Share Posted April 6, 2006 Suggest you try a few tests to try and narrow it down. Are you sure it's a fuel problem or could it be ignition? There is loads of advice on how to check both issues on the TR6 forum. If it is fuel, this type of behaviour is typical of a car that has been standing and has got **** in the fuel tank. It's alright to start with and then a bit of movement moves a big chunk of sediment over the outlet blocking the supply. Just a thought. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted April 6, 2006 Report Share Posted April 6, 2006 When it is a fuel supply problem, I think you can't keep the engine alive with the trottle, and why should it restart only after an hour? It rather seems electrical : a failing rotor (a lot of new rotors are dead after a few miles) can make the car behave like that, a coil can give problems when warmed only... When the car has been serviced recently, chances are that a new component of bad quality has been fitted. I would try a new rotor firstly, inspect the gap of the points, thorougly inspect the low tension part of the ignition, especially the components in the distributor : are the wires properly isolated? The pin with nut that holds the moving point should not make contact with the point and the electrical leads (isolation is by plastic rings) to coil and condenser. The condensor can be at fault too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted April 7, 2006 Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 If you don't keep on the revs then she eventually just dies, and then won't start for about an hour after that. I had a very simliar problem on my 250. After running for 15-20 minutes, I had to rev to keep the engine running but a few minutes more, it stalled regardless and would not re-start - until an hour or so later. Then, like magic, it would start first time. The problem was fixed when the car went into a garage for a few things to be fixed, including a replacement col and condenser. Problem was fixed - I'm almost certain it was coil/condenser, certainly electrical as no work was done to the fuel system, but I can't be 100% sure exactly what it was. Agree with marvmul, though, don't overlook the electrics - the syptoms are that of a progressively weakening spark. If you can you borrow a replacement coil/condenser, it doesn't take long to change them over. At the same time, whenever there's a problem, I always look to recent work done and new components as a likely source of a new problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grmills Posted April 7, 2006 Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 Sounds similar to a problem I had with my 6 about ten years ago which turned out to be the metering unit (ie fitting a new one fixed it). I could get it to run in the interim by advancing (?, retarding? can't quite remember) the timing. Would therefore deduce that if mucking around with the timing "solves" it then it's probably the metering unit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
raydrink Posted April 7, 2006 Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 Sorry to add yet another possible theory......but do you have Lumenition electronic ignition by any chance? There are many tales (including my own experience, twice) of the control unit failing and giving similar symptoms to those you describe. Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jim F Posted April 22, 2006 Report Share Posted April 22, 2006 I have experienced the same problem and it turned out to be low fuel pressure. The motor would always start from cold but, when hot, I'd crank the motor for ever trying to get it to start - without success. I'd then sit for an hour letting the motor cool and then, eventually, it would start. I thought the problem was I was flooding it!! But here comes the solution... I ran a temporary electrical circuit between the battery and the pump when the motor was hot and surprise, the restarting problem disappeared! The bottom line - the electrical supply wasn’t sufficient to generate the 115 psi output from the PI pump. By bypassing the existing circuitry solved the problem. As a permanent fix I put a relay in place - using the 'old' electrical circuit to operate the relay, and laying in a new circuit from the fuse block to the pump. Hope that helps. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Douglas Winn Posted April 27, 2006 Report Share Posted April 27, 2006 Go for the easy ones first. condenser. I had exactly the same problem and had to change the condenser twice. Then it vanished. Metering units don't go wrong. They go slowly out of calibration or they go bust. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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