Small Sense of Achievement

[Hamish]

Today I’ve done a test drive of my 3a after months off the road and it all seems to work. 

1. Gearbox / overdrive removed refurbed and uprated od change (Peter cox) and just refitted  

2. Flywheel adapted for TR6 diaphragm clutch

 3. Diaphragm clutch fitted (no adjustments to slave or rod needed)

4.  New competition grade engine mounts (bloody fiddly) but stopped excessive engine rocking.

5. New competition grade gearbox mount

6. New Revington style big bore exhaust manifold 4:1 (cheap off eBay)

7. New Phoenix big bore exhaust 

8. New led indicator dash lamp. (Cheap)

8. Comp seats underfloor bracing. 

And in the middle of all this a family bereavement. 

 

Very pleased it all seems to work. (wish I could share this with my dad)

I have a Revington overdrive logic box to fit ( I hate and don’t understand electrics)

 

Question

will my new bigger bore exhaust and comp silencer, affect the fuelling of my twin SU’s to the degree that it would damage anything until retuned by someone more knowledgeable than I ?

 

 H

ps gearbox tunnel carpets and seats need fitting. 

Edited November 30, 2018 by Hamish
Sp

[tomfpurves]

Well done Hamish. All sounds very sensible and successful. I doubt the exhaust would affect the fuelling but time on a rolling road with a good man in charge might pay off. Revlogic is brilliant to use but Glen tells me not straightforward to fit. Good luck Tom

[brenda]

Well done H it takes time but you get there in the end, mine is still in bits, hope to see you at the Redrose Christmas Lunch.

Mike. Redrose group 

[iain]

Hi Hamish

i thought the Rev logic was simplicity itself. Shout if your stuck

Iain

[Hamish]

1 hour ago, brenda said:

Well done H it takes time but you get there in the end, mine is still in bits, hope to see you at the Redrose Christmas Lunch.

Mike. Redrose group 

Suzie and I hope to be there 

1 hour ago, iain said:

Hi Hamish

i thought the Rev logic was simplicity itself. Shout if your stuck

Iain

Thanks Iain

i just need to study the map of the London Underground which apparently is the wiring diagram 

and compare that to my car. 

H

[ijonsson]

4 hours ago, Hamish said:

Today I’ve done a test drive of my 3a after months off the road and it all seems to work. 

1. Gearbox / overdrive removed refurbed and uprated od change (Peter cox) and just refitted  

2. Flywheel adapted for TR6 diaphragm clutch

 3. Diaphragm clutch fitted (no adjustments to slave or rod needed)

4.  New competition grade engine mounts (bloody fiddly) but stopped excessive engine rocking.

5. New competition grade gearbox mount

6. New Revington style big bore exhaust manifold 4:1 (cheap off eBay)

7. New Phoenix big bore exhaust 

8. New led indicator dash lamp. (Cheap)

8. Comp seats underfloor bracing. 

And in the middle of all this a family bereavement. 

 

Very pleased it all seems to work. (wish I could share this with my dad)

I have a Revington overdrive logic box to fit ( I hate and don’t understand electrics)

 

Question

will my new bigger bore exhaust and comp silencer, affect the fuelling of my twin SU’s to the degree that it would damage anything until retuned by someone more knowledgeable than I ?

 

 H

ps gearbox tunnel carpets and seats need fitting. 

Maybe this can be of some help?

[foster461]

Good job Hamish. Working on the TR is very therapeutic.

I must look into the OD logic controller. I have one on the TR6 but not the TR3

 

Stan

[Ian Vincent]

Hamish,

I have logic controller fitted to my overdrive, I don’t know if it’s the Revington one but it works well. 

I’m in hospital having a new knee fitted but if you’re still stuck in a few days (mid next week) drop me a PM or email and I’ll dig out the wiring diagram for you. 

If it helps, my controller has a small indicator light on the dash which comes on whenever the controller has cut the overdrive (say if you change up from OD third to top) and you will then need to flick the OD switch off/on to re-engage it and turn the light off. 

Rgds Ian

[iain]

Good luck with knee Ian. 

The rev device has a warning light to tell you when it’s engaged, this is also wired into the lighting circuit on one version so that it is dim at night. The control box having a rheostat allowing you to set the brightness for day and night settings.

Iain

 

[Hamish]

6 hours ago, Ian Vincent said:

Hamish,

I have logic controller fitted to my overdrive, I don’t know if it’s the Revington one but it works well. 

I’m in hospital having a new knee fitted but if you’re still stuck in a few days (mid next week) drop me a PM or email and I’ll dig out the wiring diagram for you. 

If it helps, my controller has a small indicator light on the dash which comes on whenever the controller has cut the overdrive (say if you change up from OD third to top) and you will then need to flick the OD switch off/on to re-engage it and turn the light off. 

Rgds Ian

Ian

thanks for the offer. 

Good luck with the knee replacement.It  should get you back with a clean MOT. With no “running gear” advisories.  

 

This forum is great. Here is a chap having a major joint replacement yet still offering help. 

I’m humbled. Thank you 

 

thank you all, for all the  help you give to those like me that are learning on the job as it were.

H

[Ian Vincent]

No need to be humbled thks Hamish. You can’t do much in Hospital so I’m on the iPhone quite a bit. 

Rgds Ian 

[Ian Vincent]

2 hours ago, iain said:

Good luck with knee Ian. 

The rev device has a warning light to tell you when it’s engaged, this is also wired into the lighting circuit on one version so that it is dim at night. The control box having a rheostat allowing you to set the brightness for day and night settings.

Iain

 

It sounds like yours is different to mine. My light only comes on when the switch is in the on position but the overdrive has been disengaged by the controller because the box switches have cut the power as the box goes through neutral. To reset it you have to flick the switch off and on and the dash panel light goes off and the overdrive will engage.  

It’s brilliant for going up through the gears although there is little difference between OD third and top, particularly with a 4 pot engine  

Rgdd Ian

[Hamish]

Logic box question. 

I get the improvement going up the box. Being sequential

but

How do you come down the box. 

As I understand it if you are in od top and change gear you go from od top to 3rd which is a big step down. 

Or

od top flick the switch to top. 

 

Is there a way of wiring a switch (similar to those in the top of the gearbox) to the clutch peddle so all you would have to do is touch the clutch to de-activate the od top to just top. 

Bit like the old pre-selector boxes. 

 

I have found when doing sprints its a bit of a handful steering and flicking the switch to change down. Whilst braking. 

Just to dip the clutch in these circs. Would be handy. 

Thoughts ?!

h

[foster461]

Hamish, the controller is a big help even changing down. An example, you are on the highway is OD 4th doing 80 mph at 3000 rpm and you see your exit coming up fast. You start to decelerate to take the exit but you are still in OD 4th. As you hit the exit you change down wanting to continue decelerating and you would really like to be in 3rd gear. Without the controller you would be in 3rd OD.

Stan

[stuart]

For racing you would be better off with the switch on the gear knob (It needs to be a momentary one) then if your in O/drive and you dont want to go the bigger jump down to the next direct gear keep your finger on the switch and it wall take you down to the next O/drive gear.

I had the switch on mine in a saloon gear knob that was altered to take a momentary switch from a modern

Enclosed a simplified wiring diagram to use rather than the complicated Revingtons one. The version with the warning lamp is much better, I have a small warning light on the dash that also due to refraction shows up in the door mirror too.

Stuart.