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Advice on TR3A purchase - what to look out for


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Hi Guys, wonder if you can help - I am investing in a TR3A as part of my pension, it has had 5 previous owners the last two of which have been dealers who have registered the car in their own names for some reason. The car is in mint condition and I have negotiated hard for what I think is a good price. I am really familiar with MGB's but not TR's - is there anywhere I can do some background checks on vehicle history if I have the reg, chassis and engine number?

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There are a number of problems which are not always obvious

  • The chassis rusts from inside and the rear 30% is worse
  • Rust is every where and may be covered by new paint and filler
  • It is difficult and expensive to make the doors close neatly and with an even door gap
  • The A post is not strong enough and often the door will catch on the cill at the rear end, of the door. I have a friend whose door is OK until he fits the side screen. Make sure that the lock is properly lined up with the lock plate.
  • Check for chassis damage and twisting by measurement
  • The floors rust out
  • It is difficult to make the very expensive side screens  line up with the windscreen, hood and hardtop
  • Remove the rubber seal along the base of each door
  • Windscreen movement from use as a lever when getting out of the car.
  • The fuel tank can have rust particles that feed through to the pump. Check the glass filter on the pump
  • Check for wear in the SU carb spindles.Should be none
  • Wear in the steering box and indicators not cancelling.
  • Poor road holding from old springs
  • Difficult to change gear smoothly
  • Should have overdrive on 2,3,4th
  • Front wings rust out because the drain channel send water directly into the wing/body cavity
  • Boot lid drain holes cause the same damage to the rear wings
  • The lower edge of the doors can have old repairs from rusting from inside
  • Remove the restrictor valve from the brake hydraulic pipes
  • Rubber seals on the suspension have a short useful life.
  • Upgrade the radiator to avoid overheating, using a modern core
  • When refitting the front panel use s.s screws so that they undo OK next time.
  • Oil leak at the gearbox end of the engine, very expensive
  • Engine may cause vibration if not balanced. Retain the fan.
  • Hydraulic/fuel pipes should be Kunifer/copper and not steel
  • Fit a racing condenser outside the distributor to eliminate hot starting.
  • Check the seat springs for collapse
  • Check the chassis for internal rust and cracks around front suspension mountings.

The benefit of these cars is that it can all be repaired. The parts are available from more than one source and there are experienced companies who will look after all problems.There is also the forum for advice from long term owners.

Good luck Richard & B

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My only additional contribution to Richard's great list is that you be very suspicious of any modification from standard, important to know who did it with a check of their expertise.

Dampers, steering, Over-Drive and brake conversions - great if done expertly but a dangerous & expensive business if not!

Cheers

Mike

 

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Hi Kenny ~

Make absolutely sure it's not a TR2 but fitted with a 3A front apron. The SU carbs. should be 1.75" and fitted to a high port cylinder head.

Check for front disc brakes. Also make sure it's not a TR3 with the 3A front apron.

Check the commission number.  

Tom.

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21 hours ago, Richardtr3a said:

Nothing that a good talk-wrench can not fix :rolleyes:

 Talk wench !!!!

that the wife isn’t it ?

 

ps

this is not off topic !

you really do need a sense of humour- owning a TR. 

Edited by Hamish
Ps
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Rust and panel fit are problems and they take a long time in the restoration process to remove and get right respectively.

Parts availability are generally good to excellent unless you need body panels at anytime, when you will be in trouble.

One item not mentioned is the engine. With age the water jackets become filled with rust and sludge which then becomes a sort of cement which no "patented" cure can shift. This will lead to overheating as the sludge is thickest on NO4 jacket. I know this as my previous 3a suffered with this and required and engine rebuild. To make sure this never happened again, the car I am currently in the process of selling has had a complete engine rebuild which included new pistons and liners, the block soda blasted and machine washed prior to final engineering and rebuild with all new parts.

 This does not come cheap so is often ignored and covered up with a nice engine paint job. My suggestion is to get the seller to prove there are no overheating issues.

I have a series of photos taken at each stage of the rebuild showing how much rust and sludge is present in a running engine before the rebuild which I will publish here with a full article on why 4 pot tr engines overheat. It has been covered many times before but I think my photo's will add to our collective knowledge. 

 

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