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New motor mounts for Tr4a


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14 hours ago, Tr4aJim said:

Thanks Roger, I’ll give that a try.

Jim

If you have a non standard exhaust manifold watch you don’t crush it if you Jack one side of the engine at a time. 

Also watch the engine/gearbox area on the bulk head it was close on my 3a don’t know if clearance is better on your car.

Also you may be able to cut the engine mount threads to make fitting easier. 

I fitted the competition engine mounts on my 3a it was a bit fiddly so take your time especially if nyloc nuts are used makes spannering hard work an ordinary nut with a spring lock washer would be easier.

H

Edited by Hamish
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Hamish, I have the stock manifold, and it looks pretty rugged. I need the full mount threads as I also decided to add some washers to the new engine mounts. I want to gain some extra clearance between the fan extension and the rack. I’m installing a narrow belt kit and this will give enough space to easily replace the belt in the future (yes I’m keeping the mechanical fan. I just like that “agricultural” lookB))

***************

Well, I hit a snag. I was able to get the right side of the engine high enough to take the old mount out and get the new one in. However when I tried to do the same on the left side, the mount bracket on the engine contacted the lower flex coupling of the steering shaft (LHD), about a half inch short of freeing the mount. :huh: So looks like  I’ll be pulling the steering shaft. It’s always something!

Ive read that some owners replace the lower flex coupling with a solid one out of a Tr6.  I might as well go this route too and gain some extra clearance.

More to come........

Jim

 

 

 

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Quick update. New motor mounts are in! Once I pulled the steering shaft out, I had plenty of room to shift the engine. Thanks for all the help ad suggestions.

BTW - I added six washers to each mount (3 above and 3 below). As a result the fan extension is now about 1/2 above the steering rack, so plenty of room to get the belt off and on. I did check the clearance from the thermostat housing to the bonnet and have a little more than 1/4 inch there.

Now to order the Tr6 lower coupling for the steering shaft.

Jim

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Hi Jim,

           whilst you have the steering shaft apart consider machining the remaining splined couplings. to allow the clamp to work properly.

Have a look at the pic below. The shiny area is metal that stops the clamp working.  I use a 1/8" (or there abouts) milling cutter.

 

Roger

P1040609a.jpg

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This is not the motor but the gearbox mount, same-same....

With the dashboard out for the EPS and the gear box tunnel out for the reverse light switch

I thought it could be a good idea to change the rear gearbox mount, which seemed to me to be "soft" from the lots of oil.

P1110803-b.JPG.ddb0150335c6bd86975351aaf7dab351.JPG

Easier as I expacted to get it out WITH the crossmember.

The old one is indeed soft like HARIBO bears in the sun, but the new one is very stiff, from my feeling it could be softer....

Any idea to this?

Edited by Z320
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