I hate repro parts

[Rodbr]

Six radiator hoses, two downpipes ( one stainless, one steel) set of Mikalor clamps and still have not been able to reseal. It gets frustrating to have to drain expensive coolant (waterless) and catch up when i leaks. I have today ordered Wellseal to try to finally seal the downpipe.

The hoses compress to a point where they become distorted beyond a point of seal.

Bah!

All this after replacing 60 year old items i.e oil seals, and you cant buy repro items that last five years.

This is not where I want to be and I've been working on my cars for 60 plus years.

 

[Tom Boyd]

Regarding the stainless steel pipe, if you 'key' up the area the hose & clamp will be, it helps to stop the pipe slipping..

Where are you buying your hoses from? Can't say i have encountered a massive issue with them

Tom

[Lebro]

I smear a bit of sealant around the pipe before slipping the hose on - Wellseal, Hylomar etc.

 

Bob.

[RogerH]

Hi Rod,

         do not over tighten the clamp.

You could solder a ring of copper around the pipe to form a swage to stop the hose slipping. Even a couple of blobs of silver solder would be effective.

 

Roger

[iain]

.....also Evans is renowned for finding the smallest of leaks...... Why not fill with cheap old water and antifreeze until you have resolved your leaks. I know you will then have to flush again, but according to a local supplier that flush will do more than one go.

FWIW I have a constant leak from the bottom hose or hoses .......small but enough to be a pain. I must get on and find a solution too.

Iain

Edited November 20, 2018 by iain

[stuart]

Dump the waterless anyway its not all its cracked up to be and very flammable too. http://www.oilem.com/potential-issues-with-waterless-engine-coolants/

Stuart.

[AndrewMAshton]

Rod, like you I had a problem with a weeping joint, in my case it was the top radiator hose on my 4A, tried Mikalor at great expense and in the end I used two thin jubilee clips on each joint, touch wood, no problems in 4 years, I use the red 4Life coolant which I bought from the MG owners club, chhers, Andrew

[Fireman049]

I also fitted two Jubilee clips on my top hose.

Tom.

[Z320]

Hi Rob,

5 weeks ago I recommended TO YOU to buy them from Bastuck / Germany.

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/67595-modern-rubber-again/

I very sorry to hear nothing from you aboout my reciommendation. You did that? Here is the link.

https://shop.bastuck2.de/index.php?cat=10000&hg=11400

Ciao Marco

[Tom Boyd]

1 hour ago, stuart said:

Dump the waterless anyway its not all its cracked up to be and very flammable too. http://www.oilem.com/potential-issues-with-waterless-engine-coolants/

Stuart.

Couldn't agree more  

[BrianC]

Why not just flare the ends?  You don't need a special tool or to solder an olive - just whack a suitable-sized socket in and fit the clamp close to the end, preferably with another a little further up the hose.   I don't understand why the downpipes are not made with a flare or olive anyway - Oh yes, "Customers want everything as cheap as possible" (allegedly!)

[Waldi]

What is it with coolant hoses? They should be a fit-and-forget item. I installed new hoses to the heater, using new original-look wire clamps. one leaked, even after further tightening, and this was with the engine cold, no pressure! I installed new jubilee clamps, leakage now stopped, but I do not feel confident.

will see how they hold when the engine (and rubber) is warm and the system is pressurized. Plan to put some pressure on it cold (like 14 psi), to gain some confidence.

I think it is related to the relatively soft rubber. Smooth SS tubes don’t help either.

Waldi

[Fireman049]

.

Edited April 16, 2020 by Fireman049

[Rogcastle]

Have you tried wire clamps as recommended by Marco.

Roger

[roy53]

With regards the waterless coolant. 

All the race engine builders that i have come across will not honour any failures if used in one of their engines,  says it all really.

Roy

[GT6M]

ruff the pipe up a wee bit if nee lip onit, then put sealant onit

but in reality, there nee need for sealant IF yer pipes actually round, nee dents init

 

Evans, bin it, honest bin it,

it caught fire on me engine block,{ leek,n core plug } and just a good bit of luck it burnt where it did,

Matts ont ball,  plus he,s a laff too

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=the+workshop%2C+evans+coolant

 

M

 

 

[ed_h]

Beyond its performance or lack thereof, Evans is pretty much just straight glycols.  No reason for it to cost what it does.

Ed

[Rodbr]

When I referred to Waterless I should qualify in that it is CAT ELCC as used in Caterpiller machine engines, Long life and rechargeable. Works well in all conditions and internals are clean.

Will try the Wellseal and another set of hoses as the set I have used seems to have swollen beyond an acceptable level.

[DaveN]

With repro parts why do the supplies still send out parts if they know there is an issue with them?

Spitfire head gaskets is an issue too as supplied by one of the majors!

[Richardtr3a]

On 11/20/2018 at 2:31 PM, Waldi said:

What is it with coolant hoses? They should be a fit-and-forget item. I installed new hoses to the heater, using new original-look wire clamps. one leaked, even after further tightening, and this was with the engine cold, no pressure! I installed new jubilee clamps, leakage now stopped, but I do not feel confident.

will see how they hold when the engine (and rubber) is warm and the system is pressurized. Plan to put some pressure on it cold (like 14 psi), to gain some confidence.

I think it is related to the relatively soft rubber. Smooth SS tubes don’t help either.

Waldi

I pressurized my engine by mistake and there were water leaks in several places, pump,heater, thermostat etc. I then used a correct radiator pressure cap and no leaks for years. This year the tyre man checking my toe in found one clamp loose but still no leaks. I can be lucky sometimes.

Richard & B

Edited November 23, 2018 by Richardtr3a
clarity