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We are going down the aerospace route now..... 

The DC10 and MD11 have ADGs (Air Driven Generators).  The prop turns a generator, which is used to power the Emergency Bus, which powers the Emergency Hydraulic pump.  Deployed  by the driver pulling a lever.  The gizmo drops out the fuselage into the airstream and hey presto you have hydraulic power for primary controls.
 
I recall we had to be sure the prop blade was correctly orientated when stowed or it could jam as it dropped through the hole in the fuselage.  
 
Peter W
 
PS. My TR has a warning light for the electric cooling fan which glows at anything over 30 mph getting quite bright at higher speeds.  Yes iI know the wiring circuit should have been arranged differently.  But if ain’t broke don’t fix it.
Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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If you make the fan large enough it can drive the dynamo, which then drives your engine, which then fills your tank. Stupid I did not think of this before.

Waldi

But what to do with the petrol?

Edited by Waldi
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14 minutes ago, Waldi said:

If you make the fan large enough it can drive the dynamo, which then drives your engine, which then fills your tank. Stupid I did not think of this before.

Waldi

But what to do with the petrol?

Now you are all getting into the swing of things - excellent.

 

Roger

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Don't know about charging the battery, but my electric fan will light up the LED in the dashboard switch, that I installed to warn me that the fan was running.  Can be confusng at night!

John

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The original question was “which should I order, suck or blow?”

The answer is that a sucker is more efficient for a number of reasons. 

How much more efficient? and does it make any practical difference? are different questions the answers to which in most cases are “ not much”

As for fitting an electric fan and leaving the mechanical one in place........would you fit an alternator and leave the dynamo fitted?

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Well I'm not engaging with the conversation around thermodynamics...thanks Roger! But at a practical level I can tell you I have run with both a pusher and then a puller and could determine no measurable difference in performance over many thousands of miles.........the bottom line is - they both work!

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1 hour ago, Drewmotty said:

The original question was “which should I order, suck or blow?”

The answer is that a sucker is more efficient for a number of reasons. 

How much more efficient? and does it make any practical difference? are different questions the answers to which in most cases are “ not much”

As for fitting an electric fan and leaving the mechanical one in place........would you fit an alternator and leave the dynamo fitted?

The victorians fitted sails to their steam warships.  ;)

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I would fit a sucker to the TR as I have had two fans seize, not at the same time, on modern cars were the fan was a bower. I was informed it was not an uncommon problem due to the windmilling when not in use.

Roger - I guess the result of not being able to feather the prop?

Dave

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12 hours ago, Paulsb said:

so if i mount it on a drop down  device under the car should i make it suck or blow? 

SUCK so that it operates like the reverse of a hover craft...

The Chaparral 2J is one of the strangest race cars ever built. It had two engines: a pretty large Chevy V-8 that powered the car and an unexpected smaller engine. Why? The smaller engine drove a fan that pulled air out from beneath the car; sucking the air out from under a car increases down force and allows the car to corner faster.

The undo you seat belt, switch the fan to 'boost',  and hey presto - you are ejected! :P 

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Hi Tom,

I'm afraid mine was one of my "quick fixes", that I've never got round to improving. When I relocated from Swindon to Rugby (1993) I had the Herald towed by the removers but drove the TR up. Part way through the trip the engine started vibrating badly. I couldn't see why so pressed on. It was a few days later when I was showing the TR to someone that I noticed one of the original mechanical fan blades was missing! Luckily it hadn't hit the underside of the bonnet when it flew off. A couple of weeks later it boiled in Coventry traffic. Someone in the local group put me onto Dave Gleed, who sold me a Kenlowe with a universal mounting, a bit of a Heath Robinson affair, but it works. 

I really should get round to tidying it up...

Pete

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On a similar ‘vane’......That reminds me of my SD1 ..... ragging it along the motorway the viscous coupling for the fan seized .. and as they were just a push fit with a for want of a better word a crinkle shaped spacer..... it instantly started to run at engine speed... becoming now a propeller it ran away uncontrolled and almost managed to get all the way through the radiator! 

That was a 2600 engine and I felt it practically unburstable. Stopped, recovered the debris and carried on driving to the breakers yard for replacements.

Edited by DaveN
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My boss had an SD1 2600 - we were meeting at a customer in Gateshead the day he collected it from the dealer in Derby. Taking a slip road off the A1M, he couldn't get out of 5th gear. Called the AA, who towed it to a local dealer who found there was no oil in the gearbox at all, and no sign of a leak! It had never been filled at the factory, or checked by the dealer.:o

Pete

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The OHC 2300 and 2600 engines were Triumph's replacement for the push rod straight six. With no Triumph saloon to put them into they ended up in the Rover SD1.

I often wondered how a TR6 or TR7 would have performed with this engine. Maybe a bit heavy in the front of the TR7.

Dave

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Interesting article about the Triumph engine that became the 2300 and 2600 as installed in the SD1. It goes to say it was on a par with the 3500 v8 for power and Rover deliberately had to strangle the output of the 2600. It was easily capable of 200 bhp with a bit of tuning. The bottom end was extremely strong dictated by Spen  King the engine designer. It’s just a real shame they didn’t make it another £500-£1000 more expensive and spent the money on quality.

The full story

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