Lever dampers - fitting

[Lebro]

Just changed my rear dampers for some reconditioned & uprated ones I bought at the NEC last week.

When I originaly fitted the old ones, the body was off the chassis, & it was easy, this time, with body on, getting the old ones off was a PITA

there is not room to get a socket onto the bolt head, so you have to undo the nyloc nut on the rear whilst trying to stop the bolt rotating.

I found mole grips just about fitted onto the head, but it was still difficult undoing the nut with open ended spanner 1 flat at a time.

I decided, on fitting the new ones, to use cap head bolts which I could spin from the bolt head side, while holding the nut still with open ended spanner.

Bolts required are 3/8" UNF cap head HT steel 1 ¼", (or 1½" will also fit).  all back together now - much easier this way.

Bob.

 

[Ian Vincent]

I welded a tag on the head of the bolts to stop them rotating. 

Rgds Ian

[Lebro]

Yes, but you still need to do all the undoing / doing up from behind, with limited acess.

With cap heads you just hold the nut still from behind, & rotate the bolt from the front - much easier.

Bob.

[iain]

This cap nut method also allows a fair torque to be applied.

Iain

[Lebro]

If I was starting again with the body off the chassis, I would weld the nuts (not nyloc !) to the rear of the damper support bracket which would make things easier still.

Bob.

[Chilliman]

Quote

I would weld the nuts (not nyloc !) to the rear of the damper support bracket which would make things easier still

yup, that was my choice - together with the cap head bolts, ....no more knocks from the rear end due to under torqued lever arm shocks.....

[stuart]

Some cars have a hole in the floor side in line with the forwardmost mounting nut so you can use a socket behind.  I always weld the nuts on anyway if I have the body off

Stuart.

[Z320]

Please which TR porblem is this?

On my TR4A both bolts go in threads cut in a massive steel piece, welded on the frame.

Edited November 18, 2018 by Z320

[Chilliman]

Quote

Please which TR porblem is this?

I'm only aware of it on the live axle cars - the TR4 in particular - I don't know what the arrangement is on the IRS cars - did they have the nuts already welded to the mounting?

[stuart]

On 11/18/2018 at 9:49 AM, Chilliman said:

I'm only aware of it on the live axle cars - the TR4 in particular - I don't know what the arrangement is on the IRS cars - did they have the nuts already welded to the mounting?

No the mounting plate sits on the rear diff mounting bracket and is 1/4" Plate with the shock mounting holes threaded directly into it. Thes often get weak when DPO`s have had them on and off too many times so a longer mounting bolt that protrudes through the back of the plate and a locknut on the rear is called for.

Stuart.

[Lebro]

So, do the IRS cars use cap head bolts ? otherwise how do you tighten up the hex head bolt.

or, do you use a longer bolt with a spacer to clear the damper body 

Bob.

 

[stuart]

Different damper and there is no bracket side in the way so you can get to the bolts easily

Stuart.

 

[Lebro]

So there is room around the hex head for a socket ? the bracket is not the problem , it's the body of the damper .

Bob.

Edited November 19, 2018 by Lebro

[stuart]

Yes room enough no problem, I have a socket milled down to fit the earlier shocks anyway.

Stuart.

Edited November 19, 2018 by stuart