TR NIALL Posted November 19, 2018 Report Share Posted November 19, 2018 Get 2 rather long Bolts and pull it together from underneath. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted November 20, 2018 Report Share Posted November 20, 2018 +1 Roger M-E ~ I also put a rope around the bell housing and pull up on it with one hand whilst pushing the gearbox forward. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted November 20, 2018 Report Share Posted November 20, 2018 Hamish, you have PM. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted November 20, 2018 Report Share Posted November 20, 2018 Another time I had the TR on my high lift ramps and supported the rear of the gearbox with a roof mounted 'Haltrac' pulley hoist. I then was able to go under the car and guide the box easily into the engine. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 21, 2018 Report Share Posted November 21, 2018 22 hours ago, John Morrison said: Hamish, you have PM. John. Thanks John you are a STAR. H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 21, 2018 Report Share Posted November 21, 2018 On 11/19/2018 at 5:09 PM, Hamish said: I spent the weekend trying to refit my gearbox. I got it to within an inch of fitting. It just wouldn’t go. So with defeatist resignation I struggled to get the box out convinced that the clutch plate was wrong. So clutch off as well. The clutch plate fits the gearbox shaft. They are a very precise fit aren’t they. So I am now back to a flintstones style TR3a. H Went through this myself some years ago. I fitted 3 longer studs in the top position of the engine block. Once hanging on the three studs I pushed the gearbox easily into place. I had to twiddle the output flange with the gearbox in gear a little bit, as the front clutch spline was not quite aligned. This is because the stud location stops you rotating the bell housing for spline alignment. I used a skateboard and scissor jack under the g/box to roll it into place. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 21, 2018 Report Share Posted November 21, 2018 37 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Went through this myself some years ago. I fitted 3 longer studs in the top position of the engine block. Once hanging on the three studs I pushed the gearbox easily into place. I had to twiddle the output flange with the gearbox in gear a little bit, as the front clutch spline was not quite aligned. This is because the stud location stops you rotating the bell housing for spline alignment. I used a skateboard and scissor jack under the g/box to roll it into place. Peter W Thanks Peter/ everyone. I tried the (single) longer bolt at the top of the engine gearbox mounting to support and guide the box. I had a trolley jack on my lie on crawler that was on a large plywood panel. Smooth movement was the idea I supporting the gearbox/overdrive. Also tried moving the output of the gearbox (in gear) to line up the splines. Still wouldnt go the last bit. Fingers crossed for this weekend thanks to the kindness of John Morrison and his famous crane. H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted November 21, 2018 Report Share Posted November 21, 2018 Hi Hamish, you say the box was 1” off the engine plate. This could be the small bronze bearing in the fly-wheel not being aligned with the gb input shaft. Check the bearing bush for burrs etc (assuming it was not replaced and fitted before), and make sure the gb is in line with the engine. Do you have the 3 studs (instead of bolts) in the top 3 holes? They help with the alignment. And do not forget the 2 centering bolts that have a tight fit. Cheers, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted November 22, 2018 Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 9 hours ago, Waldi said: Hi Hamish, you say the box was 1” off the engine plate. This could be the small bronze bearing in the fly-wheel not being aligned with the gb input shaft. Check the bearing bush for burrs etc (assuming it was not replaced and fitted before), and make sure the gb is in line with the engine. Do you have the 3 studs (instead of bolts) in the top 3 holes? They help with the alignment. And do not forget the 2 centering bolts that have a tight fit. Cheers, Waldi No Shouldered bolts on a four pot engine, the fixed dowels do the job. Hamish you are very welcome, John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted November 22, 2018 Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 Thanks John, I got mixed and confused. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 22, 2018 Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, John Morrison said: No Shouldered bolts on a four pot engine, the fixed dowels do the job. Hamish you are very welcome, John. 1 hour ago, Waldi said: Thanks John, I got mixed and confused. Waldi Very easy to do with my mish mash car. TR3a engine and TR6 box and now clutch. Thanks for all the help and support in this practical task. Ta H ps sorry for hijacking thread. Edited November 22, 2018 by Hamish Added ps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 Job done thanks to John Morrison and his magic crane. A big THANK YOU John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 (edited) Thread hi jack over Edited November 25, 2018 by Hamish Added info Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted December 16, 2018 Report Share Posted December 16, 2018 (edited) Hamish, When I replace a clutch driven plate i dress the edges of the splines with a dremel to create a lead in of a couple of mm. It takes about 1/2 hour to do and makes it much easier to start the gearbox input shaft sliding into place. It doesn't do away with the need for everything to be lined up but it does make it easier to start the engagement. It has no impact on the performance of the clutch. Rgds Ian Edited December 16, 2018 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 16, 2018 Report Share Posted December 16, 2018 1 hour ago, Ian Vincent said: Hamish, When I replace a clutch driven plate i dress the edges of the splines with a dremel to create a lead in of a couple of mm. It takes about 1/2 hour to do and makes it much easier to start the gearbox input shaft sliding into place. It doesn't do away with the need for everything to be lined up but it does make it easier to start the engagement. It has no impact on the performance of the clutch. Rgds Ian That sounds a good idea Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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